Clyde, Since I just bought Aftcote for the 1st time, I'm glad to see/read your post, thanks! DR
Forum: rodboard

Mr Stevens, Thank you, I had NO Idea about "confirming" my email addy, I have now done so, and if you'd try once again and let me know if it works now, I'd apreciate it :-) ...and THANKS for the reply/narrowed searching option, I found the post. DR
Forum: rodboard

Whats your secret to making and creating tiny trim bands on the ends of wraps and having ONE tiny wrap of the same color up inside the wrap. Something like: Black wrap with two tiny trim bands in any lighter color, one 1/2 way down the wrap, and the other at the very end. DR
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This may be wrong......but I'd fill in the chips mostly but not over full, with rod wrap epoxy AFTER I touched them up with a black Sharpie marker, then I'd wrap over the whole deal. DR
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Buddy, you beat me to it!.....I have done so many gun stocks with tru-oil and I don't believe they make ANYTHING better for wood. DR
Forum: rodboard

I've used AMTackle's on 4 rods so far. The blue's and a hologram (wifes rod! LOL) and each have performed very well. I built a crankbait rod on which I throw only spectra and it's holding up so far...that blue is a really nice addition especially when done with black as a main wrap and trimmed in tiny blue metallic....makes a BEAUTIFUL rod! Doug, I have seen a green available, I believe it
Forum: rodboard

available from any of the manufacturer's for their rod blanks? This may sound silly.....but it seems to me that most of the makers should INCLUDE rod logo's with their blanks....I can dream can't I? :-) DR
Forum: rodboard

Having been in the Auto industry where all clearcoats were sanded and recoated or buffed with 1500...I guess it just stuck with me :-) The real key is NOT having to sand much at all. Do as perfect as possible with the razor, smooth it with the 1500 and recoat....the new recoat job will also help hide any areas that are not sanded completely smooth. The file idea sounds like a good one too!.
Forum: rodboard

Yes, Use a sharp razor blade, trim excess and finish with 1500 grit wet, and re-coat-worked for me when the wife cut off my rod turner too early. DR
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Jim I hope someone with proper knowledge-not me!-can answer your questions and do it well. From what I understand, the spline IS the stiffest area on the rod and guides can be put either on it, or oppisite side of it, depending on your preferance to it being "softer" or "stiffer/stronger". If the spline is dis-reguarded it may tend to make the blank "roll" to the
Forum: rodboard

On the sag......my wife cut off my dryer too early one night and I recieved a few sags on the bottom side of a couple guide feet on my son's new rod. I trimmed them with a razor being careful NOT to go too deep, then took 1500grit wet sand paper and smoothed out the trim cut to a nice round sanded job and recoated. Turned out very very nice. I'd never cut off a guide for a sag unless it's complet
Forum: rodboard

Hunter, There are several different "measurements" for the same rod length, depending on who you ask/read. I just built a 6'6" and roughly from the reel seat is about 20-21" to guide #1 I'd say your 18" is about right. I used a concept guide system of my own making and it realy worked out well. Stick the guides to the blank, add the reel and line and see hoiw it pe
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LOL!!! Once on a 11 mile float trip and only 15 minutes into the 14 hour totally remote wilderness day, I rared back on a REALLY nice Smallmouth with my crankbait that held #4 Excaliber hooks. The SM jumped, spit the lure and it came back at me around mach3, in such a flash I didn't have time to even move. It barreled into the top of my leg to the left of somewhere I was REAL glad it didn't hi
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I'm REAL new at this, but you can remove the excess epoxy by heating/warming it up with a hair dryer and "pushing" it off with your finger, then take solivent and wipe off the sticky resdue (I used fingernail polish remover, but test the blank for colorfastness FIRST) The scratch is above my head :-) DR
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Sounds pretty good.......I did some looking and found 100% Nylon in a few colors and bought them, also bought a few Sulky Metallic colors for trim work, and they do look very nice. No savings money wise, but it's just nice to be able to touch and look at the colors locally. DR
Forum: rodboard

In seraching, I've seen several guys using threads form the "sewing stores" bought locally. Which of these are usable for wrapping guides and trim, and is it a good/common practice to do so? DR
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Mike, I knew that was coming, and I agree! Only all my epoxy is mixed with syringes and done properly. As I stated, the manufacturer called it "bad batch" as it would not set no matter how properly it was done. Here's what I did and it worked: I took soilvent and removed the wet coat down to the 1st coat that did set-different bottles and brand-then scuffed with soapy water and 15
Forum: rodboard

I have a rod totally finished and the epoxy used was a "bad batch" according to the maker that has already tested it. The epoxy-rod wrapping-will not dry and it was suggested to "recoat" the epoxy with "good" epoxy. I did this and it set up. However the outer film-new epoxy-is set, the under poor epoxy did not and it's still soft after 2 days. My plans are to remo
Forum: rodboard