John, I ALWAYS topcoat a marbling job with one more coats of clear only. This gives the marbling a deeper look, protects the metal or mica flakes(when using metallic's) from protruding through the surface (microscopically). Think of it this way: Years back metal flake color auto car colors like silver had paint failures with dull finish's. As time went on we decided to use a silver BASE c
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I'd try a black as the 2nd base thread DR
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I'm wondering if the heat from grinding may be a part of it on larger guide frames? Doubtful, but..... DR
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It can happen. Rare but I have seen frame failure even on a brand new guide. I just posted a photo on the photo page of a brand new guide with a cracked ring frame. I bent the frame a tiny bit just to show the crack better. This guide was wrapped on a rod and I never noticed it until I had it under magnification getting ready to apply finish. I seen the crack and had to remove and replace the gu
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Things have to be "right", meaning: Super Fast Super Easy Zero clutter Simple Effortless Wind proof: 70-80mph can do weird things you'd never think of DR
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Mike you are DEAD ON as I was in that very same position. Rough water? The lake had a "Power Run" this same weekend and they like to beat us to death. I had 6-7 rods in the exact same spot you mentioned and it was a PIA for sure. Something like the Stick Jacket would be a must for me if I tourney fished much at all. That way you could at least keep the tips apart. Time is a huge issue,
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I fished a tournament this weekend on a lake near my home. I do not usually fish tournaments but was asked to fill in since a regular could not. Yes we did place in the money both days. I got a 1st hand look at today's rod lockers and how they effect micro guides. Talking with the anglers and watching them loading and unloading rods made me see where spiral wrapping these tourney rods is just
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What kind of drying time before epoxy application are you allowing Bob? Are you thinning the product any? DR
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Bob Meiser Wrote: it fills and covers thread > and feather inlays in a tuff ultra clear > protective film and accepts all epoxies that we > have used without a hitch. > > Bob Meiser <> R.B. Meiser Fly Rods LLC
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Dick, You'll love that Aero seat. DR
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Just part of the learning curve Steven. Building should be fun and believe it or not very repetitious! Stick to what works for you and just refine it to perfection. Side note along the same lines: The last rod I built was "the perfect rod". I've tried to build a "perfect" rod (with rod builders eyes of course) for QUITE some time. I finally built one that I couldn't find a
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Merrick is correct, also Fishsticks4U (back before Robert and Ray sold it) carried Kardol as well. DR
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Steve, Welcome aboard! Already signed up. :-)
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IF IF the hair is not deep you can trim it out (shave it out) with a sharp razor blade carefully. 'CAREFULLY. DR
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Also love his shipping charges policy, GREAT job Lance! DR
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Chuck, did your SCV come from a supplier or straight from SC to your door? I've had WAY better luck with straight to me from SC DR
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Two part 5 minute rod building epoxy. Works EVERY time and never fails. Need to replace a tip top? Just heat it and pull, comes right off. DR
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Chuck I have seen two perfectly straight blanks so far this year. One was an SCV and the other was a Batson XP. So they are out there, but FEW. DR
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If you can take a razor blade and trim out/or open up the bubbles WITHOUT hitting the threads, then I would do so and just re-coat. If not, I'm with Roger, while the finish is fresh it removes very easily. I'd strip it all off and start over. Bill is correct on the pouring out on to foil, and I agree again, sounds like your choice in finish needs changing to a lite version = more working tim
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Now we need a use for jelly......anyone? .....oh! .....and some bread too! LOL DR
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Ok, lets say "bends easier" or with less resistance, rather than "wants to bend". Less resistance = less power. Building opposite will give you more power and more resistance. Either of these could be a correct way to build depending on your goal with each rod. DR
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Kevin, Rarely will you fins a perfectly straight rod blank no matter who makes it. There are some that are better than others but all in all not very many are perfectly straight. Something I heard a builder say at one of the NC RB shows a few years back as I was walking past kinda stuck in my mind when it comes to blanks curve, he said: "build the rod blank the way the rod WANTS to be
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Warming with a heat gun sometimes works in some situations....worth a shot. DR
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Welcome Gabe! I often use a slower finish on long wrappings for many reasons and come back with a faster finish for the top coat. Works VERY well when needed. DR
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Michael, X-Fast usually means a THIN tip that is very light and WILL move very easily to detect strikes and throw lighter lures. And yes, this usually means a rod that "locks up" early in the bending process and gives the angler a stiffer butt section. It's not a matter of having a slower tip if the tip is thin and lightly powered enough the same movement can and will take place.
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Overnight 100% of the time! DR
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Gate, #1 I wouldn't mix less than 2cc each on something where I were pressed for time = less room for error #2 Why use 2 brands? (I know a few reasons, just wondered why on yours) #3 I'd put everything on at once: guides and wrappings #4 I ALWAYS WAIT overnight before applying another coat of finish 5 You should never have enough finish on anything to sag or "fling" anywh
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Thin and with a brush. Cut out 1/2 the bristle's from the brush if you need too. DR
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One thing you guys have failed to think on is that MAYBE it could be a combination of chemicals from the rod bond and the alcohol both. 70% is all I use. Reason I'm thinking along these lines is that rod bond will stain a Fuji Soft Touch reel seat. Turns the material milky looking and it cannot be corrected. Ask me how I know. My GUESS is the RB started to soften the paint and the alcohol added
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6mm DR
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