Roger, Yes I was just adding a rear split grip not a full length grip, I should have made that clear-er. Bill, I was planning on trying to save the marbling, but a grip will offset the decals making them "off center" so I guess I'll re-do the entire area: add a rear seat grip 2" in length re-make the rear grip and cap re-do the decals and marbling DR
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When I get started I'll let you guys know how it went. Roger, It'll take me 30min to re-do the marbling alone! DR
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I have a rod that was built with an epoxy rear grip ramp and marbled like this: Now, a rear grip needs to be added where the epoxy ramp is now. I'd rather not tear this whole rod down to do it. I was thinking of cleaning out the epoxy ramp area and part of the marbling area where a new grip will sit down to the rod blank. Next building a rear grip from cork, reaming it to fit the rod blank, s
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Multiple thin coat application. Apply thin, let each coat cure, re-pete until you get the desired amount on the thread. 3-4 thin coats is not uncommon and way better than 1 thicker coat, control wise. DR
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I know for a fact that rods in the 802.75 have way too soft a tip for what he's wanting. Mostly the rod will be used for skirted jigs and chompers with football heads, 1/2oz. After sleeping on it, I believe the Batson RX8MB844 is REALLY close to what he's wanting if that helps..... SCV is budget do-able, I do like the 1/4-1oz SCV. I have built those and they are sweet. DR
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6'10" (I can cut blank down from 7') MH very fast action built as a spinning rod for 3/8-1/2 oz jigs. I was thinking maybe something like a SCIII or V (depending on his budget) in MH casting blank. Maybe a 5C70MHF? Or maybe an MHX 844? Thoughts? DR
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Good Lord Billy! I hope you get well soon and Merry Christmas to you and yours. DR
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Canned air. DR
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Rarely ever use CP here, but do have several brands on hand, and have used it many times. Using no CP creates a stronger bond and better strength in a guide wrap. Using CP SEALS OUT ALL the adhesion properties that finish has (I know it doesn't have a lot, but it does have some), leaving the finish doing nothing more than creating a shell over the CP. Just sitting on top of the CP. Think of CP
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Love the Mag Bass series of the PacBay Rainforest blanks. I'm with Marc, great blank and super value. Hardest problem is getting them as suppliers sell out fast.. DR
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Hey Steve! Hope you are yours are well my friend. Being a Striped Bass and Musky fisherman, I can tell you that many Musky blanks are perfect-o for this rig, I can guarantee that I have several musky rods that would shine using this method for bass. I've been around the umbrella rigs for many many years, same setup....and yes we catch bass on them too. Steve suggested having "bass
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I measure from the butt cap end up, and get decal connection to make me a nice ruler decal and place it on the rod according to what is needed. For a smallmouth bass I'd start the ruler at 17" and go to 24". cover with 2 coats of finish and you've got a ruler that last as long as the rod! And it looks nice too. DR
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I place mine exactly as Joe does, only I use s standard round top keeper. no troubles yet, but to be honest I dont use hook keepers on my own rods, that's what the stripping guide is for! :-) DR
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Steve ALL my bait casters are spit grips. Tip: having the grip against the reel seat being at least 4" long to suit most folks pretty well. Go under 4" and you may end up with some hand on the split. DR
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Without a picture everything is only a guess. Could be: dust specks from something white in the area color preserver hardened spec's specs from epoxy that are not in liquid form many things..... Sanding and re-coating will not make the white specs go away if they are deep in the finish. Remove and re-wrap the guides that have issues and finish her up right. If you think the white
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Joe nailed it down pretty well with Steve's setup. I also have the same rod built but my guides are a little unique. Steve sent me the set with running guides going down to 2mm's. One AWESOME lightweight setup! Here is mine: DR
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Rikon, I agree, love mine! DR
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Bill, Aftcote can take 24+ when the temps are cool. DR
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Tip: if you're just doing a repair and have swing arm lighting, setting it shining onto the repair fairly close where the bulb warms the repair as the dryer turns and it cures FAST. DR
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I usually leave it about 1 hour, and don't touch it with your fingers either to see if it's dry, it will be. I have left it anywhere from 1hr to 24hours, no problem at all. We dont need to make it hard to do. All anyone needs to do is apply a couple nice light dusting coats over the entire decal area, re-coat with finish 1hr or more later. Simple as can be. DR
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Krylon workable fixatif is correct I just lightly spray the general area masking off reel seats and grips The acetone has zero effect. I'm not heavily painting this product on, just a couple VERY LIGHT coats that dry very fast is all it takes. DR
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Chris, One can of fixatif lasts forever, I've only bought 1 can. Had it for years. I just LIGHTLY spray 2-3 coats on letting each dry in between the other. Only takes less than a minute to dry and it flat out WORKS ....and works 100% of the time. I've not had a single issue with decals since starting to use it. That say a lot to me, because I was 50/50 before, 1/2 my decals were a nightmare.
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Drew, NO you do not need to do anything, your rod and decal is FINE. Sometimes peel and stick decals will reject finish, it may fish eye, or get wavy or separate on or around the edges of decals. For this reason I use Krylon Fixatif spray over EVERY decal. It's a preventive thing. I use it knowing that I am preventing a problem that may or may not exist. Having said that, the risk is h
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Chris, your problem began here: "I did not apply any fixative or CP over any of the decals" I will not finish over ANY decal without fixative, so easy, so simple, works 100% of the time, why not use it? DR
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LOVE the Pearl-X powders!!!! DR
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Mod-Fast Popping blank for sure. DR
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Put it this way...I've torn down broken rods with poly arbors quite a few times to save custom expensive reel seats for re-use/build replacement. I was blown away at how easy it was to remove and save the reel seats when using full length poly foam arbors. Blown away. Getting the reel seats off the rods took very very little effort. Scary easy actually. Now the total opposite is true when using a
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Smooth transition = better feel in hand, looks. The weight is minimal at best. Great area to marble as well! DR
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Drew, Amen on the expensive! I've found titanium to NOT be a superior material by far. It may be lighter in weight, but that is all I'll give it. SS13 guide frames have been real good to me. DR
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Drew, Yes that is common with NIRLF. How common? I dont know...... but common enough in my rod room to make changes. DR
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