hi all
new to rod building. starting 1st rod (graphite). I need to know the best solvent to remove epoxy before it sets up. DENATURED ALCOHOL? ACETONE? LAQUER THINNERS? And if the blank has a finish on it will any of the solvents damage the finish?
thanks

DENATURED ALCOHOL and lots of paper towels

Bill - willierods.com

yup, it's cheap and works like a charm.

Tight Lines and Bull's-eyes,

Get Bit Outdoors
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Plain ole 70% household Alcohol and coffee filters.

DR

I also most of the time use alcohol from the drug store Rubbing Alcohol Try to get 80 - 90 %

Bill - willierods.com

White vinegar, (acidic acid)

JLS Custom Rods
Cassadaga, NY

You can do a search for epoxy solvents and easily find the best solvent to thin and or remove epoxy.

Denatured alcohol will work, but will not work very well.

Do the search and you will find the answer.

Roger

You don't want to use Acetone (and I would advise against the laquer thinners as well) for clean up on the
rod itself, as it can damage the finish and potentially the integrity of the blank itself.

Alcohol (pref. DNA) is definitely the way to go.

~ Rich

Hi Dennis,
What I use to clean up around grips, realseats and winding checks etc is mineral turpentine. Don't know what you guys in the States call it but it's oil based paint thinners. Works well, doesn't harm the blank and is relatively safe. Best to use nitrile or latex gloves just to be sure. For finish epoxy I use isopropanol.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Denatured alcohol will work, but will not work
> very well.


I've always used DA and it works great for me. Never a problem with it. ?

I also have always used Denatured alcohol and would venture to say that the vast majority of builders use it. I don't know of a single epoxy formulater that recommends thinning of epoxy and I don't understand the reasoning behind "Denatured alcohol will work, but will not work very well" It SAFELY removes the epoxy, isn't that the point!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I also use Denatured alcohol and have also used isopropyl alcohol in the 90% version. It is more that adequate to remove excess epoxy from the blank after gluing up a seat and handle. Anything stronger and you are risking damaging the finish on the blank if it has one. Its like removing a spot from a carpet, start out mild and work your way stronger until the stain comes out. That way you don't go too strong and damage the appearance. Why use anything stronger than you actually need?

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I can tell you for a fact that if you get U-40 on a reel seat and discover someone used the last of your alcohol you can get it off with Windex, a lot of paper towels and determination. Would not recommend that one tho. lol

Regular and denatured work fine for me. Most of the clean up is just using paper towels to get the bulk off then cleaning with a wet (alcohol) soaked paper towel. And yes do test the blank finish because some will be removed by denatured and even regular rubbing alcohol can remove some of the finish. Epoxy can damage your skin so always a little caution with it!

As far as the caution part......

In general try not to have to wipe stuff off with a solvent. Tape parts up. Wear gloves. As you start to butt parts together wipe off the extra. Afterwards remove a strip of tape at the joints and wipe down with alcohol.

Now you can remove the gloves and all the tape. If done right there should very little need to clean things up much. I used to slobber epoxy all over the blank go through half a roll off paper towels.

Problem is that solvent is thinning that epoxy enough to have it go in the pores of your skin. That is a great way to become allergic to epoxy.

Okay, off the soap box and done ranting.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russell, Good point on the thinning and the pores.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

ok. thanks guys