Ok, so I've been having some issues with the tiniest micro bubbles and have tried several things to get rid of them, They have occurred over thread and open area's of wrap. Even on second and third coatings. I've tried different bottles of epoxy, warmed epoxy, cool epoxy, new brushes, CP, stainless spatulas, cleaned syringes, thinned with acetone to no avail. These tine little boogers are hard to get out and seem to be developing as the rod turns. I guess I'm on about my 5th bout with these and have never had issues before. The only thing I can think of now is that I have moved from where I do my finishing, still in the house, but now I'm in close proximity to an AC vent. Help me please.

I had the same problem with tiger wraps, then someone forgot who it was, said to put a very light, I mean very light coat of epoxy where you can still feel the thread but yet have a thin coat of epoxy over the threads, then put a second coat a little thicker then the first, and maybe a third, and that is what I did and the epoxy came out bubble free, also I used the blowing gentle air from a straw technique, that also helped. Tight lines!

what I found that d alcohal in a walmart eyeglass water sparer because it gives a lite mist, lite is key almost a vaper

Brandon,
I just did a rod the other day and had the same problem. I looked up and sure enough I had left the air conditioning vent open.

I went back stripped off the work; redid the work, closed the air conditioning vents, closed the door to the room and then applied the finish.
No bubbles.

Not a good thing to be too close to the cooler or moving air from the vent.

Take care
REW

These bubbles are forming even on the 2nd and 3rd coats. Blowing these doesn't help. They are the tiniest of specks. If you took 2 square mm, there could be up to 10 of them in there. It takes a lot of heat just to get them to pop.

Thanks Roger, after trying everything else that was the last thought that came to mind, but couldn't risk another issue. However I had already redone that 3d box wrap once. If I'm not happy with it, I may dress it up with some glitter or whatever they use at the paint shop.

"A lot of heat" can actually boil the finish and create more micro bubbles.

.................

Your finish could be setting too fast and not allowing the bubbles to release? Try a slower finish. I work beside an AC vent all the time.

DR

I'm not a fan of heating the finish...either during the mix stage or in the "it's on the wrap and I need to pop these bubbles" stage.

What finish are you using?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/30/2011 09:30PM by Jay Lancaster.

Brandon, I had the same problem and figured out that the small bubbles come from the epoxy itself when I was mixing it. I had to slow down my stirring process and pour it out and let it spread very thin in a tin pan to get them out. They are hard to see in the cup or tin but show up clearly over a contrasting color. There will be some bubbles in the first coat coming from the threads but on the second coat there should not be any other than what is created by the brush. Everyone has their preference for applying it but I have found I have much better results turning the rod faster than most dryers will turn. This one was turned at about 60RPM when I added the epoxy:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Have you tried ProKote from Mudhole?

I love it crystal clear and absolutely no bubbles. Curing time is longer; but so is the working time when applying.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

As a new builder I had to the same issues with finish, not to mention I was having a hard time with finish curing before it was level.

What I found out to work better for me as a new builder and inexperienced finisher was to go with a light finish. Flex Coat light. I tried some of the high build finishes and I couldnt get bubbles to pop no matter how much heat I put on them. Then as previously mentioned the heat would add MORE bubbles. I thought for a while that my finish would suck until I figured this out. Using a light finish really gives you some room for error in that you almost always get the bubbles to pop. High build finishes are another story imo.

What I do now, after watching the flex coat video and getting some help from the dudes on here.

First thing I do is allow each part to level in the mixing cup before I mix it. So add your first part (resin or hardener) and let that level for a minute. You can lightly breathe on it to release any bubbles. After that is level add the second part and let that sit for a minute.

Then I put the cup on the mixer and allow the mix to stir for 3-5 minutes until its crystal clear.

Once it's done mixing pour it onto a flat piece of aluminim foil and allow it to spread out. Gently blow the bubbles out that might be remaining.

Then apply.

Application can cause bubbles just from the brush you use to the way you apply the mix on the threads. Walker Nelson is a great finisher and he pointed me in the right direction on how to apply finish. Basically scoop up some finish with your brush and drop it onto the thread. Dont brush just drop it on. Do this the length of the wrap and then do a 1/4 turn. Apply finish the same way. 1/4 turn. Apply finish. 1/4 turn. Apply finish. By now you should have finish surrounding the wrap. Let it sag to the bottom and wick away excess. Turn 1/4 turn and allow to sag wicking away excess. Sometimes you can take the excess finish and put it on low spots that need more. Eventually you will have a pretty straight finish and thats the time to put it on the dryer and let it spin.

It sounds so simple but if you try to do more (in my experience) the finsh will not react well. Micro bubbles, valleys etc. Since I started prepping and applying finish this way I have been very pleased with the results.

To make your building life easier, Go to Mud Hole and buy a small bottle of "Bubble Buster". I have found this to work just
as they discribed. I have had no bubbles since I started with i

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