John P2 Neal is a great guy to work with. Just placed my first ever BIG (for me at least) components order with him and ended up chewing the fat on the phone with him for more that 30min. He is quite a character. The guide and tip grab bags are well worth the price. You will not likely find complete sets of guides unless you buy a bunch of bags but you will find some useful stuff for sure.
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Get in touch with Neal....He should be able to hook you up. I make mine out of spar varnished and cord wrapped .75"-1" dowels from Home Depot personally. I do have some blank sections arriving next week I think. I will give you a call when I get them
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Ok........Here is the opinion of an established "Kitchen Sink" rodbuilder. Use them! Either order a blank that fits over the section of blank that remains and make the attachment with a thread wrap and epoxy, ir of you actually have the entire butt section of the rod just buy an appropriate blank and remake it as a two piece rod. You can also ream out the handle to accept a new blank
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Get the finest grit belts you can get your hands on. I foung 320 grit........Use it on some srap metal to wear down the belt a little bit and you are ready for guides. You basically are buffing them to shape and nit grinding them then. Derek
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Neal does indeed sell rod scraps for both reamers and handle extensions for a VERY reasonable fee.
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I am presently using 12" long 3/8" and 5/16" allthread in a powerdrill as a lathe so you are already way better set up then me. Wobbling (oscillation) usually means that the mandrel is bent (which given Andy's Rep is a stretch) or your bed is not true. SOMETHING is out of balance. The would not be any oscillation it everything was true and plumb. It has been quite a while since
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OK......Now I am REALLY scared....Is it just me or do A LOT of rodbuilders seem to be getting back surgery? I am already screwed due to too many rough horses and my total inability to land on something OTHER than rock, concrete, and split rail fences (don't ask). Do I need to change hobbies? Been there Doc, done that, could not agree more. I don't even take ibuprofen anymore unless I REALLY
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Tom In the spirit of experimentation, I am thinking of using carbon fiber tubing from a local retail source to extend a 10'6" s/s blank to 12'. Now the flexion of this tubing is minimal. The wall thickness looks good. and the intersect point should be reinforced by the reel seat area which will be a section of larger ID carbon fiber oversleeve that I will mount a plate reel seat on. I
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Note....Delrin rods turned out to be WAY too flexible. The carbon fiber rods would look awesome but they were out of my price range for color sticks. The white fiberglass (watch out for splinters) I am painting black with appliance epoxy spray paint and they look great. Will leave a couple white and just clearcoat them to lessen the chance of splinters.
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WOW....I got quoted!
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I plan to hit Tap Plastics locally for some fiberglass and Delrin rods as well as some polycarbonate and acrylic tubing. Prices can be a bit high but the quality of the materials is good. They do not have a Hawaii location but do have online ordering.
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Tom Are the RB issues that deal with blank extensions, and surf rods, available on CD yet? I know that there was talk about archival CD's in Sept according to the archives.
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Ditto to Jim's statement.
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Lets give a little breakdown on the thread and such I used. Madeira Polyneon- 40wt yellow and two shades of Orange Sulky Rayon- 30wt Black and Orange Coates & Clark Trilobal Metallic Pearl Generic Sz 69 Black Nylon Thread- This stuff is getting trashed. I wrap several threads at a time and use my fingers for tension. That may be my biggest problem as I have somewhat greasy skin eve
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TRYING to get over my hate of two-part epoxy finishes. Not having too much luck I am afraid. Just finished my first somewhat complicated wrap and decided to just go for it. Measured my epoxy, mixed it carefully, warmed it gently, applied it liberally and let her spin. The subject line says it all. Tried flaming the wraps to no avail....SIGH...Luckily it is one of my personal rods....and
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I am with you on this Chris. I too fish the Rocks and Sand of the (west) coast and am tought on gear. That is why I build cheaply, build strong, and rebuild often on my personal gear. It is also why most of my personal gear looks like it was wrapped by someone on a bad acid trip with the funky color combinations I am always testing out. One way to guarantee also that my personal gear will l
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Cool.....I am not the only closet comedian on this board. Here's your sigh!
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Here's your Sign! Now Get 'Er Done! Sorry....I am a Blue Collar Rodbuilder!
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I have stripped down and am preparing to rebuild a 9' Conolon rod. It was my father's salmon rod in the 60's. The first rod I ever stripped that had a factory aluminum handle extension.
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If you have an air rifle....Use it! Just load it with the felt cleaning pellets and the risk of ricochet is minimal. THey are also pretty damn accurate at short ranges making flies a target as well.
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Check your thread...I had EXACTLY the same thing happen with Rayon thread. I cp all my wraps and had problems with all thread types getting loose on me. It was builder error on my part I have to admit. I was using too much CP and brushing it on. I now use the brush only to hold the cp and let the cp soak into the threads from the brush only enough to make he thread uniformly (wet). No brushi
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I use the forum here extensively and have developed solid appreciation for my relationships with fellow builders (pros and newbies) that have as a result. I give away all the rods I build currently, I simply do not feel ready to charge for the product that I am producing at this time. In fact I have only JUST produced two rods that I am truely happy with (both rebuilds of existing blanks) and w
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After my first adverse reaction to chemical cross contamination while building a rod (please don't ask) I find myself wondering if a MSDS Material Data Safety Sheet Compilation would be appropriate to avoid embarrasing and potentially FATAL chemical reations. I am serious about this folks. Thoughts??
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The reel is likely a Penn Sailfisher or one of the Penn 149 series, none of which I have worked on personally, but a real cleaning would involve complete disassembly of the reel followed by soaking the sideplates in a mild degreasing solution. After the sideplates are thoroughly dry I usually put several coats of seriously buffed in turtlewax on the sideplates. Hope this helps.
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Build BOTH... Purchase two identical blanks and build them exactly the same EXCEPT for one being conventional and the other being spiral wrapped. Fish them BOTH and then you will really experience for yourself just how dynamically different the spiral rod fishes. You will end up rewrapping the conventional wrap but you will have hands on experience as to why. Just my .02 I am in the pr
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Porcupines are actually quite tasty. Ate my first in a survival situation and have since gone back for more. A bit more gamey than chicken but not bad at all. You also get the added benefit of all the quills which have more uses than you can possibly imagine as well as being a hot item for craft people on @#$%&., and the HUGE teeth make interesting watch fobs. I prefer rattlesnake however.
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I have the exact same problem with a couple of my finish jobs. We will not talk about the one that got soot in it somehow while I flamed the bubbles with a butane lighter. Watching this thread with interest and hoping for a solution myself.
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Per the manufacturer....Coates&Clark Trilobal thread contains no silicone lubricants. I still always use CP with my wraps though as I am looking to retain better spool color.
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Raymond! SHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
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I use A LOT of Madiera and until recently I have been doing the CP thing TOTALLY WRONG...That was causing the problems. I use acrylic cp and the secret with it is to only use enough to wet the threads and that is IT. Add additional coats if needed but the first application should only uniformly wet the threads. Any excess (I tend to still be a bit heavy handed) can be carefully removed with a
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