Looking to build on the cheap here if possible....I know that is bad but when you are on a budget...... I was wondering if single foot wire fly rod guides could be used to build light to medium action spiral wrapped casting rods and light action spinning rods (toward the tip of course. Can this happen or should I give in to reality and get the real thing with some HiAloy or similar single f
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I cut my rings from leftover eva and hypalon grips and press fit/stretch them into place. The thicker material makes for great bumpers, and they are soft and will not mar the rod finish.
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As a fellow "newbie" and an infamous "kitchen sink" rodbuilder, I say "go for it" you may discover the next good thing. Years ago, sewing thread was a strict no-no, now even board sponsors are getting on board. Long live the spirit of discovery and experimentation.
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Krylon Fusion Should be allowed to sit and "cure" for a week before messing with it in any way such as adding a clear coat. I used to use it, had similar problems, and have since switched to Auto Grade airbrush paints or appliance epoxy spray paints and automotice clear coats.
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Ditto on the palm support.......I build mostly surf rods for myself of two completely different extremes. Meat chuckers for striped bass and shark, etc in the surf, and much lighter weight long rods for coastal surf perch and casting 2oz lures or less for striped bass. An underwrap or wrapping the plate on a textured grip on the heavers is fine as they spend most of the time in rod holders, but
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I recently fell in love with plate reel seats for my surf rods.. I plan to either wrap the grips with cork tape and then attach the plated with C or D thread, or put the seat on a underwrap of A thread directly on the blank and then overwrap with C or D. I have also seen them epoxied directly into place but I don't think I will go that route. The plate reel seats just make sense to me for so
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I have used dilute Elmers and other higher end craft glues quite a bit and they will work provided the overcoat is completely waterproof and does not crack over time allowing water intrusion. Just like quoted above. I also use Future Floor Acrylic rather extensively (its cheap and I build mostly give away rods that get rebuilt regularly due to misuse) and have not had any problems with it that
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I he can't help I may be able to, but mine are tear-offs.
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I plan to experiment with painting reels seats.....soon. Also looking into powder coating SS guides and reel parts as well.....Yes, I need counseling, but at least I don't MARBLE my reels!
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Ditto on the bright colored thread....If interested, email me and I can send you some pics of my rods I did that way. Derek
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You can start with the Createx Auto Air line of airbrush paints...Easy to clean, good color pallette which includes flairs, and easy cleanup. Get them for the price and ease of use. Once you get your technique down the selections are nearly endless as is the price range. Make yourself a spray booth and filter out the airborne particles of paint or wear a particle mask unless you want to be b
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Personally....I have been doing a couple of no-no's with success....So Far. I use both dilute high end white "craft glue" and Future Floor Acrylic and both work pretty well for a "kitchen sink" rodbuilder like myself...Of course I also dumpster dive at my local building supply company looking for raw materials for wrapping stands, storage shelves, etc. Hey, try it, you may
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Thanks for beating me to the suggestion Dave G.....You saved me some typing....ALL of my conventional rods are wrapped Bumper Style.
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Hmmm....I just happent to have a sewing maching motor laying around. Care to post pictures of the lathe? Derek
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Don't know where you live but just about any Lowe's, Home Depot, WalMart, or other big box store that sells hardware like TrueVale. You can also find it at most places that cater to boat repair. There are also quite a few other options out there othe than MOW...Just look for a finish that saws it is for outdoor use. Hope this helps.
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Mr. If you can point me to a beach where I can catch, photograph, and releaase STIPPERS consistantly....I will sell everything I own and move there.....lol Hmmm.....could start a whole new trend in lure design aswell. But seriously folks.........\ Regards....Derek
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Here is another thought. I wrap on a table. the entire underside of that table has elastic bands stapled to it to allow me to store rods and sections under the table where they take up no floor space and keeps dust from collecting. You can also attach the same elastic bands to the sides of bookcases and even the back of the wrapping room door if you wish. Rays ceiling idea is a good one a
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I am in the sameboat myself, but I have a ton of production rods, so I usually just measure the grips and placement of a rod of the same length and style and build accordingly. To me ALL production rods are made with handles that are a bit too short so I add a couple of inches to make up for that and the fact that I am 6'4". I am beginning to rethink the use of foregrips on casting rods
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I THINK you put the screw eye in THE BOTTOM of the can and store it UPSIDE DOWN!?!?!? I am not sure with permagloss, but this is what I do with my Spar and it works fine. Derek
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Wood grips are only as boring as you make them! Whoops....That is not the question is it. I am just beginning to work with wood grips myself and have given up on trying to bore the completed grip. I am instead fitting each ring ( I am making my grips from rings) and any spacers by hand and then glueing up and finishing on the rod. This takes time, is very frustrating, and have no room for
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Madeira polyneon 40wt sewing thread in flourescent orange, yellow, or lime green. I use it all the time, but works best on light colored blanks and color preserver SHOULD be used. Coates & Clark Trilobal 40wt thread. Similar colors to Madeira but per manufacturer- does not contain lubricants that can cause fisheye in epoxy rod finishes. In the process of experimenting with this now.
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Sorry William...I am a total PC newbie and haven't smoothed out many of the bumps yet. Hope the changes I just made work. Derek
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Not to hijack you thread but I am interested in this as well I had a though of using a clear, hollow plexi rod with a removable buttcap so you can put a lightstick inside. I do a lot of night fishing. Derek Rohnert Park, CA
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I am a somewhat twisted individualand have been known to use 12wt COTTON (no-no) thread on jobs when I end up with a quick and dirty, need to get it on the water in three days sort of situation. MAJOR FUZZIES.....I coat the thread with several treatments of Future Floor Acrylic (I use it as CP) and then sand off the fuzzies starting with 320 grit sanding pad and finishing with 600 grit until are
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I use a jewelers saw which is basically just a VERY fine Hacksaw. Saw, a little, rotate the blank a little, saw a little more. The Exacto "Hobby Saw" can also be used. Derek
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all I have seen is FLOURESCENTS but no metallics in yellow....at least not anywhere I have looked. Will admit it is a little hard to judge colors with even my computer monitor though Derek
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Let me know if you find some cause I need it too.....could use metallic yellow as well Derek
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The samples showed some real quality and a good range of colors including flourescents in addition to the standard options.. Derek
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www.insultab.com If they do not have it NOBODY will. They were VERY helpful with all of my questions and even sent me a free product sample pack......BUT....Their minimum purchase was to much $$$ for me to handle as they sell in 100' lengths for the most part. Derek
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LIGHTLY sand the blank with 600 grit wet/dry and coat with semi-gloss or matte Spar Varnish? Derek
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