I wouldn't worry about the Micro Sol after placing the decal so much, Bob. It basically is more used to help a decal shrink/stretch to fit over rough surfaces, like rivets on model trains and such. I'd forego the Micro Sol THIS time and put the finish to it when done. ...but I'd have some on hand for next time...
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That's just cuz ya didn't see the ones this pup ate up, Mike! LOL!!
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I use the uni knot on all of my fishing applications (mono line; usually 10# test and less). But for SF guides and wrapping, I use flex coat's guide adhesive. It's just too easy with this stuff.
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Here's a link to Pac Bay's website page that lists their dealers. You could contact one of those and see if they have it in stock:
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I started building rods for myself after catching a larger sized northern pike on a factory-built bait casting rod (guides on top) while jigging for walleyes in 1979. I watched, during the fight, as the tip of the rod twisted over to 90 degrees (and possibly beyond that) and was just waiting for the rod to explode in my hands. I knew that those guides needed to be under the rod to prevent that
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Lauren, have you found the info you're seeking on rebuilding Monte? Tons of info on here to help you in doing that. Good luck with it; I have one of them also. I'm going to leave it on the wall and fish the ones that I build, though. I'd be afraid to break that nice old rod. I can always build another of these newer ones.
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I sure don't know exactly what this stuff is, either, Jon. I sure like to use it in quite a few applications though. I really like to be able to put it over Madeira threads that have the lubricant on them and not get any fish eye problems. The stuff I have, the base component is much thicker than the activator (which is like water as it pours).
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Just curious: Where on the bottle does it say, "Part A"?
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I hope that I'm not incorrect in thinking that Charles "Jason" Brown is the father of marbling on custom rods. In my marbling DVD in the credits, I'd given him that honor using those same words. No one has emailed or called yet to correct that, anyhow. Bill "Swampman" Stevens hit it right on the head as far as I know with what he said in his post above about him (Jason) be
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I have one from @#$%&. They are a very nice tool and come with 4 lenses of different magnification. Use it all of the time.
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Gotta agree wholeheartedly with all said about U40's Cork Sealer. I can put it on, wipe it off and get a matte surface or put it on a bit thicker, just so it doesn't run, and not wipe it off and get a fairly good gloss (matte gloss or semi gloss) to the cork. Either way, it doesn't seem to be at all slippery in many years of using it. And also agree that grip shape/diameter/fit have much more to
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Thad, they're pretty easy to come by and dirt cheap (if not free from someone who held on to one of their old ones), too. Try to get one with the basic Microsoft programs installed; among others, PAINT is very handy to have on the decal making computer...
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The metallics can be printed by themselves and show over any colored background, including black. Only the standard, non-metallic colors need be printed over a white printing first (in the "overlay" mode).
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Thad, there are no supporting Alps drivers anywhere for Vista. There are some available for XP, but I've just always used an old Windows 98 system separately for the MD1000's I have. I was in Virginia for a week and my inbox got too full for the emails; I tried getting in there from Virginia, but it wouldn't let me delete anything out??? So, I'm sure many emails got kicked back in the past
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Not to argue, but the Gudebrod HT Electra thread in 9534 (black) is fairly close to the same as the Gudebrod 1/8" Electra braid in black. I cannot find a number on the braid anywhere... Both it and the braid material are touted as holographic, although neither truly is. But in appearance after finish, they are similar. I use both in my rod building and have them in front of me now. They b
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The Gudebrod HT Electra in 9534 (black) is about the closest to the Gudebrod Electra braid that you're speaking of. The 9534 is still available in both A and D sizes, Jan.
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5 minute for MANY years (been using Flex Coat's recently). Tip-tops can be removed without damaging the blank if done properly.
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It's a tough one to get past, Marc. Even when I educate one on this, his friends keep drilling the old beliefs into him and he winds up going back to "I want a one piece." I give up, seriously. I cannot beat that old myth around here. I feel yer pain. I have several two piece myself, of course.
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Me, too, Chuck. I like that flexcoat guide adhesive a lot, now.
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Yes, just finish as any other single foot is how I've always done them, Les. LS Supreme is just fine there.
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Tim, I have some of those, too. I don't have any tip-tops with 6 ring guides, though. I don't know if they even made them in their "older" offerings (not sure on that) but I probably do have them in the size 8's that they made back then. I'll shoot an email your way if I find it still around here?
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LOL!! What a great story, Rich! Funny as heck. Don't stand in the corner though. We've all done MUCH dumber things than that!!
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Agree with that, Fred. I see 24 colors of metallics on the 100 yd. spool link (not 14). Even better!
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Sulky Holo Shimmer is just too weak for wrapping. I like using it for trims, though. It's really bright and shiny and looks great for that.
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Ted, just for your info... Orange peel is an effect caused in painting by putting the paint on too dry. I think you're speaking of fish eye with regards to the finish repelling away on your decal.
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C, but substitute dog for toys? I'm lucky; neither dog will climb stairs so they stay on the main floor away from my wrapping room upstairs.
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The only metallic that has fisheye problems for me is the Madeira metallics. Sulky, Gudebrod and all other threads 'made' for rod building don't require it. I've began using a thin primer coating of Diamondite over the Madeira metallics, now. This solved my fisheye problem; it doesn't do it for some reason? Neat stuff; I've wrapped four rods now with Madeira metallics on the guides and used th
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See ya there! Sounds like over 100 are signed up to be there, though. I know of a few that aren't signed up that will likely be there one day or the other, too.
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That was nice, Terry. Thanks for noticing. Most who read this won't remember Putter or Mike's posts...
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You can add the extra feather with the Permagloss now. Since putting out a DVD on feathers (using CP), I've found that if the Permagloss gets setting up while doing the inlays, just brush on another brushing and it will go back to it's former liquid state, allowing you to move the suspect feather around some more. I didn't know that previously...
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