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Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Kip Robinson
(---.hlna.qwest.net)
Date: June 15, 2008 07:29PM
Hi Guys,
When it comes to securing SF guides to the blank prior to wrapping, I used to have a ton of problems with the guide slipping as I wrapped. I didn't want to use adhesive because I never get the guides straight on the first pass and need them to be movable. So, I use old tippet to secure the guide to the blank. I tie up a bunch of UNI-KNOT loops, (http://www.animatedknots.com/uniknot/index.php) hold the guide on the blank with my thumb and then pull the loop down onto the guide. I usually use 2 loops per guide as that keeps the guide foot flat on the blank. It keeps things quite secure while I wrap. When I get close to the loop around the guide, I just touch it with a razor blade and the tippet loop disappears. If you look at the link to tying a uni knot, instead of threading the line through a hook, just wrap it around your finger while completing the knot. Then while killing time in front of the boob tube, I tie up a bunch of loops for later use. Really works well. Kip [www.rodbuilding.org] Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Ted Morgan
(---.qld.bigpond.net.au)
Date: June 15, 2008 09:23PM
Silicone rubber tubing works well, cut into small rings. I and several other builders here use Guide Foot Adhesive, which is just hot melt glue. Holds securely enough for wrapping, and you can adjust the guides afterwards quite easily, as the hold breaks free fairly easily.
Another tip I got a while back was to tape the guides on, align them, then add a drop of superglue to the guide foot toe. I don't recommend this one, as the Superglue can take off balnk finish when it comes t any removal. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Randy Parpart (Putter)
(---.dsl.dynamic.nccray.com)
Date: June 15, 2008 09:25PM
I use the uni knot on all of my fishing applications (mono line; usually 10# test and less). But for SF guides and wrapping, I use flex coat's guide adhesive. It's just too easy with this stuff. Putter Williston, ND Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Scott Sheets
(---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: June 15, 2008 09:39PM
I just use thin strips of blue painters tape. Might have to try the guide foot adhesive though. Scott Sheets www.smsrods.com Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Bill Stevens
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: June 15, 2008 10:02PM
3M brand Pin Stripe Detail Masking Tape - 1/8 and 1/16 inch available at automotive paint supply specialty houses. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Billy Vivona
(---.ny325.east.verizon.net)
Date: June 15, 2008 10:24PM
I also vote fo rthe guide foot adhesive. BARELY heat teh guide, adn pass it over teh stick, don't do it the other way around or you'll end up with a mess. I still use the piece of surgical tubing which I always have on teh blank to static deflect & test cast with. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Stan Grace
(---.hln-mt.client.bresnan.net)
Date: June 15, 2008 11:28PM
A light coat of guide foot adhesive works well for me and still allows the guide to be adjusted even using a Forhan wrap. Stan Grace Helena, MT "Our best is none too good" Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Steve Gardner
(---.nc.res.rr.com)
Date: June 16, 2008 12:05AM
I'm with Bill Stevens!
As far as I'm concerned the adhesive is just added weight and a soft material that deadens vibrations. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Chuck Mills
(---.grenergy.com)
Date: June 16, 2008 08:32AM
I just use the surgical tubing. The stuff i use is smaller than Mud Hole's smallest. I cut as many bands as I need plus a few spares and slide them on the blank before the tip goes on. I have used the adhesive but I usually use tubing bands. Tape is a pain on fly guides. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Anonymous User
(Moderator)
Date: June 16, 2008 09:53AM
Everybody has their own method - I use tape but thought Kip's tip was a good one. I'm sure many will find it useful. Thanks for sharing.
.............. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
J.B. Hunt
(---.dsl.logantele.com)
Date: June 16, 2008 02:00PM
I do exactly as Chuck does, I use little rubber bands made from bow sight straightener tubing. I attach a little plastic level about 4" long to the little flat on top of the reel seat, with a rubber band. Before wrapping each guide , I get the rod level, look down on top of the blank and center it in the Aluminum track then at the same time get equal space on each side of the blank, with the guide, then start wrapping. It only takes about 5 seconds to do this. When I'm finished wrapping all the guides on, I may have to slightly tweak one, maybe two guides. J.B.Hunt Bowling Green, KY Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Bill Wahler
(---.24.205.68.cfl.res.rr.com)
Date: June 16, 2008 05:38PM
I always use the surgical tubing, just make sure the diameter of the tubing makes a tight fit on the blank, and over the foot. It's movable, and there's nothing to mar the blank, as long as you've ground the foot down smoothly. Any burrs on the foot will definitly mar the blank when you try to move it. Re: Dealing with SF guides
Posted by:
Tony Dowson
(---.ok.shawcable.net)
Date: June 16, 2008 10:19PM
For doing static guide placements I use thin rings cut from surgical tubing as it easily allows me to move the guides up or down the blank.For this purpose I think they are much better than having to wrap and unwrap pieces of tape.
Once I know for sure where they are going to go I use a thin layer(a thin layer of this adds no measurable weight and the bond can easily be broken if needed) of Flex Coat Guide Foot Adhesive to hold them on the blank and then wrap a thin 1/8" - 1/4" layer of green masking tape over them to make sure they don't pop off.I know I could get away with using the surgical tubing or even just the Guide Foot Adhesive for this most of the time as well,but I've accidentally bumped a guide or two when trying to do it this way and knocked them off the blank.Using strips of tape takes a little longer but I don't have to worry about guides getting moved accidentally. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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