I went without it for over 20 years, too, Steve. Use tons of it in the oilfield and didn't start using it in rod building until about 3 or 4 years ago. Another tip using this stuff. When ending my wrap, and I go to break the tape, it's hard to find that end when I go to unwrap it later. Before laying the end of the tape down (after breaking it off), I twist the end up so that I can easily gra
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Any good hardware store should have it, Marc.
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I use white plumber's Teflon tape for masking irregular surfaces. That keeps clean-up to a nill for me. This type of "tape" (it doesn't have any adhesive) stretches as you put pressure on it and conforms to even the threads on the reel seat barrels. I still use Rod Bond for this gluing task. I seldom need to use any of the Teflon tape when gluing up grips and reel seats anymore.
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Some brands of exposed casting reel seats will require one arbor. If yours is one of these, there's two ways to do it. Glue the arbor into the reel seat (after ensuring the seat fits the rod properly) and then ream the arbor out slowly, trying it on the blank until it fits. Glue the assembly onto the blank when done. OR Ream just the arbor to fit where it needs to go. Then glue the reel
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I'll check for the thinner and if I can find that, I'll get some more Weldwood. Thanks.
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For the occasional user, how do you keep contact cement from getting so thick that it's hard to work with? I've had lots of problems with this and kinda gave up on the stuff; is there a thinner to add when it gets like that?
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I have used Rod Bond (put it on and scrape as much off as I can) with good luck for a few years now. There's others that work well, also.
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Use it. You're looking through quite a thickness of the finish in the bottles. It won't be so noticeable in a thin coat over wraps. If the clearer bottle has some crystallization in the bottom, warm it up until that disappears first. Allow it to cool back to room temp before using it.
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[] On the above page, under thread tools, you'll see this headband magnifier. edit: Dave, you beat me by a little bit! LOL!!
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I use a lot of the PB Hialoy and the braids will not groove them. I've used these for many years, now.
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Heck, how do you do it on a single foot or double foot on the side where the guide ring is at? I can see doing that "open" side of the wrap at 12 bazillion RPM, but that leaves the other side of the wrap? What do you do there? It ain't round there, it's oblong and the guide brace is there, too. I'm very curious on this one... hard to picture it.
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I really like the LSJ782 for walleye jigging, also. Like Mike said, these are discontinued. But also, as Jim stated, it's just hidden in the longer 842. Todd Vivian also told me that and just said to simply cut 6" from the butt of those to get it to 6' 6" in length. He certainly has no qualms about a builder doing that.
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Some threads cover those bumps better than others: Also, feathering them out somewhat helps. Don't try to cover it up with a sharp, 90* cut on the end. Read Doc Ski's article in the LIBRARY above. There's a piece in it that deals with this, too.
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Congrats on the future addition.
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I think that with it doing excessive blending for you, I'd first suggest trying to wait longer before mixing in the other colors. I did find one brand of finish (with certain types of pigments) did over-blend no matter what I did, though. Its not one of the two that you mentioned. I haven't tried marbling with the NEW LS Supreme (I've used the older formulation of high build, though) or t
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Crack in a guide or tip-top, reel problem are two that come to mind. Check your line for unusual wear or abrasion. If there's any of that, check your tip-top first, then other guides. A piece of cotton ball or a piece of the wife's old nylons usually works for finding a crack that's not too visible. Using magnification of some kind helps, too.
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Heck yeah; see the article on marbling in the LIBRARY above. It's done all of the time.
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If you want definition (contrasts) in your marbling, timing each brand of epoxy out is necessary. They all will work. Choose one and work with it until you know the timing of when you go to add the second, third, etc. colors in. Remember that temperature in your room will change this slightly, too. 10 degrees is going to change that timing quite a bit.
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I think when I looked at their site, it was .99/200 meters??
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Definitely gotta agree with absorption of alcohol...
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Nice, easy going post, Bob. You are a true gentleman! I agree with what Rich said on the guide sizes. I USED to ice fish a lot and hardly ever in a house. I used smaller, normal guides and just found like he said that they really don't have much more problems with icing than larger (and usually, heavier) ones do. Gets darned cold here, too, and I can remember jigging perch outside all day many
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Sounds good on the photography article. PLEASE "dumb it down" for me!! Simple minds need lots of help...
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Jonathan-really enjoyed reading that last post of yours. I'm a walleye guy, too, and agree with much of what you've said in that verse. I haven't held a Steez yet, though.
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Arf, arf; err, nice to have that time to experiment!
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Can't you just turn the rod blank the other way and weave it from there?
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"I have no idea what will make an entire wrap go milky, and I've tried to make it happen. It obviously doesn't happen often but since it apparently does on occasion..." posted by Mick I have only seen this a few times myself, Mick. No idea how or why it happened. One rod, when I cut the wrap off to re-wrap the guides, was actually moldy under the wrap. That thing stunk!!! I do kno
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The brand of epoxy used will not solve the above problem. It happened because moisture got under the epoxy. Either there's a break of some kind in the finish (a crack, nick, etc) or possibly the finish wasn't put on past the thread (or past the CP if it was used).
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Great post on the subject, Mick. Your statement below should have read "especially pro fishermen" tho... LOL!! I think I know more about rods than the average guy, even pro fisherman.
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I made a few for friends with the split/pistol grip. I'll have to dig and see if I have photos of them, Tom. I fished with the one out of my friend's boat and really liked it. They were made into rods meant to be held while trolling shad rap type lures and bottom bouncer/spinner combinations. I mean to re-make my favorite trolling rod into this type of grip but just haven't done it yet.
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I think where the pistol grip is really nice is when I'm reeling. The wide grip makes it so much easier to hold while turning the handle of the reel (it takes much less pressure from my 'holding' hand to grip the rod and keep it from twisting). On a round handle, it takes a lot more gripping power for me when reeling.
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