I'm going to try Rod Bond mixed with fine sanded cork, but for years I'd done it with Duco cement (got it last time @ Wal~Mart) and those same fine sandings. Always worked well and held up for me. I coated the inside of each pit with some of the Duco with a dental pick before mixing some up and putting it in the hole. Allow to dry and sand to blend with the surface.
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Bill, big thanks to you and Karry for helping out with the rod we threw together this year. If we get short on funds in helping another group we've checked out, we'll surely holler your way to streeetttttcccch those dollars a bit farther. We have always figured you were a shout away if we needed some help. You have made that clear to us from the start. Thanks again!!
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The one time that I put Permagloss on top of the last wrap on a Tiger wrap, the "Moire effect" disappeared completely. I had put the Permagloss on to "waterproof" the trim bands I'd wrapped so I could put a decal on over the top. I was trying to hasten things up. Once I put a coat of epoxy over the top, the Moire effect re-appeared. I can't explain why, but just know th
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Measuring by 50/50 by weight won't result in the proper mixture. Cap'n Neil's statement is correct that either of the methods will come up with equal parts... one will be equal by weight and the other will be equal by volume. The epoxies are intended to be measured by volume, not by weight. I have used a scale to measure my finish for over 25 years and I just worked out how to "weigh&q
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Good luck, Todd. See ya in April. Quite the catch Mudhole made (what'd you guys use for bait?) LOL!!
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Just walked Gunner about 15 blocks tonight; it's over 20 below (good NW wind, too) and the mustache was all ice when we got back. He curled up and went right to sleep... so should I.
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Thanks, Kevin. Giving encouragement and help to others IS my therapy!!
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I guess that the first thing that I'd try is to boil some water on the stove. Have a plier handy and maybe the wife to help. Hold the tip top and just a bit more in the boiling water for a while (try shorter times, then gradually lengthen it) and then bring it out quickly, have the wife hold the butt of the rod and grab the tip top with the pliers and pull straight away from the blank (no angl
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All that I can say on this subject is a test that I did once for myself. I put a two piece blank together and put masking tape right on the male part exactly where the female part fit on it. I wrapped the female ferrule with a lot of tension and then re-checked how far it fit on. It was over 1/8" away from the tape. So in my mind, yes, it could be done. Whether or not that kind of p
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With the wavy finish only being over the decal, I don' think that too much finish was applied. The whole area the finish was applied to would then be wavy, not just the area of the decal. Or at least a larger area. I haven't run into this problem before and can't seem to figure it out in my head, either. Only thing that I can think is that some smaller form of contamination on the decal surfac
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Adding to Bill's list of pigments that I've mixed into Rod Bond: Artist's enamel paints (Grahams, Winton, Daler~Rowney), Jacquard's Pearl Ex powdered pigments, and other brands of paints similar to Testor's (Liquid Leaf). With the Testor's types, just be sure to let it settle out and use the pigment from the settled bottle, not the paint itself. It has a deeper, truer color and less pigment
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Must have missed that you had #5 out, too. My bad...
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I'd go with metallic black and metallic silver on the bottom, about 3 or 4 coats of finish, and then metallic black over along with whatever thread for a sacrificial thread, Phil. A waterslide decal of a Raider's helmet on top of the 2nd to last coating in the middle of the Tiger wrap might look pretty cool, too (before the last coat of finish and before the top wrap).
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Shieldski: The key thing when using stronger solvents than alcohol is to NOT use a towel or rag that's "dripping wet". You just need it slightly moist. I put acetone on one towel and then use another dry towel to just dab some off the first one. Then use the "slightly dampened" one to remove the nasties. Oils and greases normally won't be removed by alcohol. Try it on a
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On the Alps board, do a search for your printer, find out someone who posted on there saying they have one. There's an email feature on the board and you could directly email the owner and ask them, Tim. I've done such things when needing questions answered and figured one of the guys who'd posted previously might be able to help me personally. The Alps board is a bit "snooty" at tim
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I use a lot of Sulky metallics and a few non-metallics (non-rayon, too) and I don't believe any of their threads carry the lubricant on them because I don't use CP and have no fish-eye issues like I do with the Madeira threads. I'm not sure what's causing the "no stick" problem you're having. Maybe you do have some Sulky that's been coated with a lubricant, I'm not sure. But of all t
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Sounds like you're doing most things right. The solutions mentioned above will likely solve the problem, but even without them, the edges shouldn't be trying to lift on you. Maybe you're moving them around to much or over-soaking them. Both of these errors will remove the little bit of adhesive that they have on them and cause such problems (and also can cause a cloudy appearance under the decal
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Are these waterslides or peel & stick labels? Two totally different animals... micro solutions won't help you on peel & stick labels.
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It also helps to wrap it around something a bit smaller than the blank you'll be setting it on with a rubber band for a while so it "takes" the curled shape.
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I think Terry's on to it; the tension is too light if burnishing/packing pushes one thread on top of another.
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Roz, just go to the "LIBRARY" above and read Doc's tutorial on how he does it:
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That's the same thing I saw back in the late '70's and exactly why I started building rods. I knew after seeing my rod twisting the guides under that it would break. After a little thought I knew how to fix it, too. It took a few years of figuring out how to wrap guides, etc, but in 1981, I built my first rod. A spiral wrapped jigging rod. When I broke it years later dropping a 25 HP outboard
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I should have added onto the gun black that I use two separate quick swipes with the pen letting it dry for a few minutes inbetween. Pretty much doing the set of guides I've ground and then wait a minute and start over. Works pretty well for me?
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I use something like a Sharpie; Birchwood Casey makes it for touching up scratches on rifle scopes, etc. It's called Super Black.
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Good info above, Marc. 1. It isn't absolutely necc. at all. 2. Putting a clear coating over it does add a bit of depth, especially when putting decals over it.
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I still have some of the Fuji luminous guides that they made quite a while ago. They were pretty neat, but with the added weight of the shock ring, I didn't use them very much.
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Try some PB Blaster; it is a darned good spray product for getting two pieces of metal loose from each other. We use this a lot in the oilfield for nuts and bolts stuck together and I've read on here recently where it worked very well for what you're speaking of, too.
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"Two light coats stronger than one heavier coat" of the same thickness? No, I think that view is flawed, too.Epoxy of the same thickness could be put on doing many coats or just one coat and there shouldn't be any difference in the outcome at all.
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That darned nephew of mine won't put a reel on that rod I built for him last Christmas ('06). His room is full of Packer memorabilia and his new rod has just become another thing on the wall there.
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The last bunch (500) that I got has the 1/4" hole in the center not quite 90 degrees from the flat faces. I have to drill the hole slightly larger (17/64") when gluing them up on a 1/4" mandrel to get them to come face to face with each other. I attributed it to either poor workmanship or a machine that got out of whack??
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