Bob, Venting an enclosed dryer with a Hepa filter inlet sounds interesting, but it would have to be air tight or vent fan would pull a LOT of dust through any gaps in the dryer box instead of drawing air strictly through the filter. Maybe seal the door with weatherstripping? Good luck! Dan
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Does this thread into the end-cap on the end of the blank, or do the threads protrude from the blank? If part of the issue is that the threads are "special" as Mike stated, you can re-tap them to a standard thread that is similar in size. (As in, a metric thread can be re-tapped to a standard thread, etc.) Dan
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think to get you results you are going to have > to use a white blank or put on multiple layers. Steve makes a good point. Similar to having to use a white undercoat on lures for flourescent paints to show their full brightness, you'll probably have to use a white underwrap or paint the blank white un
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Have you removed the handle on the back of the tailstock? If so, how long is the shaft and threaded portion that extends into the tailstock? My guess is that the "spindle" that is in the tailstock DOES NOT need to be removed and that the center is removable from the spindle as I described above (similar to removing any tapered chuck, collet, etc.) or by removing the handle and ins
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Looks like a solidly made lathe - nice to be able to keep it in the family! Using a soft steel rod as Tom and others have suggested is also good idea. If this hasn't been used in a while, there could be some corrosion or crud that's keeping things stuck together so spraying it inside and out with WD-40 or penetrating oil beforehand could be helpful to loosen things up. An alternative to
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John Kepka Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For holding mandrels I use a collet chuck. I agree with John. When I was a tool & die maker, if possible, I always used a collet chuck instead of a 3 or 4 jaw chuck. They run truer, are less apt to crush the work piece, and you don't have the "meat grinder" jaws jutting out to bark your knuck
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Funny how many people care more about how the rod > looks than how it performs. It seems especially odd for someone that wants a rod patterned after an Ugly Stik....
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I'm not aware of any blanks with a "clear top" but I would think that painting the upper 6 inches of a graphite blank a bright color would give him a more visable tip, and a lighter more sensitive rod than his ugly stiks. Dan
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Great idea Roger! Sounds like a very efficient setup. Dan
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > HE doesn't want to badmouth the company who made > the guides, since it seems like he is taking > responsibility for selecting teh wrong guides for > teh application. > > Thousands of casts - what difference does casting > make, when a SW fish takes 45 minutes pulling at > 15-20#'s of
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Thanks Jay!
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I can see that they wouldn't want to change the model numbers of all their guides, or start calling a #6 a #4, but I'd be REALLY happy if they would at least list the guide's inside diameter on their websites. Numbers for guide height, length, and in a perfect world - weight would also be useful. If you can get the manufacturers to do this Roger I'll make a campaign contribution for whatever
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Thanks Bill. I'll skip the refrigerating. I was hoping someone had maybe tried the "screw through the bottle cap" idea. If it works, it would be a good alternative for those of us that only build a few rods a year.
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I did a search about PG and read Tom's suggestion for storing it in an air tight can with a screw threaded into the bottom for access without letting air / moisture get into it so that the unused portion hardens. I would guess that this has been tried, but if not, would it work to take the same approach but to instead drill a hole in the PG bottle cap, plug it with a screw and store it cap dow
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Is the gap all the way around handle, and does it appear to be a consistent depth? If so, filling it with black or contrasting thread topped with epoxy rod finish would be easy and should either blend in, or with a contrasting color look like you planned it that way! The o-ring idea sounds interesting also if you can stretch an o-ring over your handle to reach the right area. You'd probably
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Thanks for the clarification Steve - I think the Minimas have a lot of potential, but agree that Pac Bay should offer guides AND TIPS sized to match the inside diameter of competing micros to maximize the Minima's casting efficiency. As to other's concern that Minimas may groove. The coating on these guides is similar to the coating used on drill bits, mill cutters, and other industrial tool
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Steve - Why don't you like the Minima guides for other style rods?
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Thanks Roger! The cork pieces are for a prototype that I have mind, and if it works, the plug cutters will help a lot to speed up the process. Dan
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Thanks Justin, that's another good option. Dan
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Thanks guys!
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I've looked through several catalogs and sponsor websites and haven't found anyone that sells plain cork or EVA segments that do not have holes in them. I've found composite cork and rubber without holes, but not plain cork or EVA, and I'd rather not have to make my own out of cork strips if I can avoid it. About 1 1/4" dia. and half inch long pieces are what I'm looking for. Any ideas?
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Bob! I appreciate you taking the time to compare the blanks for me during this busy time of the year, and I'll be ordering the 9000. DR - I forgot to say that I plan to use this rod for walleyes (therefore the mention of live bait) but the smallies will no doubt make some guest appearances, and now that you mention it I will try targeting SM with this rod. Should be fun! Dan
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Thanks Bob! When you have a minute could you pull both SJ9000-2 and the 4S76MLF and compare the action and power for me? This is more of a St Croix part of the country and I'm not that familier with GLoomis' actions. Thanks. Dan
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There has been an occasional pause when I click on the "Post message" button, but if I wait a few seconds the message does post. I would also guess that the double postings that appear at times in a thread are from the "Post message" button being clicked twice during one of these brief pauses. The accounting system where I used to work would do the same thing when people
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We don't "hotshot" around here Jim. Not too many salmon in the Mississippi! So it sounds like the butt on the MHX blank is probably MUCH stiffer than the butt section on the St. Croix? The rod I have in mind will be for dragging light jigs and for Carolina rigging live bait. Thanks. Dan
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Has anyone built an SJ9000-2-MHX 7'6" blank, and how would you compare it to an 4S76MLF for action and power?
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Thanks Mike! Do you use the Minima 3 or 4 series guides? With the "double swaged rings" the 4 series looks a bit stronger, though it's also about twice as expensive. Also, what tip tops do you use with these guides on your rods?
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Looking at Pac Bay's catalog, the taller Model "M" spinning guides (that would approximate the height of Fugi's "Y" frame Concept guides) are listed as being for UL to L rods, with the shorter Model SV guides listed for L to M rods. (A 25mm M guide measures 55mm tall and the SV's measure 41.5mm.) I like the height of the M's and would like to use them for the reduction gui
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Do any of the board's sponsers carry these? I've looked around and the only place I can find that has them is a non-sponser and they only carry them down to a size 6 - or is that as small as they are made?
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Carlos, Tip tops are sized by 64th's of an inch, so just divide 1 by 64 (1 / 64=.015625) then divide that number into the size of the blank's tip. Using your blank as an example: Your blank tip measures .085 / .015625 = 5.44 64th's of an inch. Rounding up to the next available tube size means that as Mike said, a 5.5 is the size tip that you want for your blank. Dan
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