A lot of the Fenwick rods come with Pac Bay guides. Maybe something in the SV series will match what he wants. Dan
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Mike Sledden Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On my Jet lathe, I have to crank out the tailstock > a bit to get mine to fit properly. If the > tailstock is cranked all the way in, then the end > of the chuck shaft hits. Mike - That's a good point. Some tailstocks have a "bump out" feature that removes the chuck, livecenter, etc. by
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a client that is looking for the lightest > (physical weight), most sensitive - jigging rod - > in a length that is between 6'10" to 7'. > He has stressed his desire for a SH style blank, > i.e. robust butt with a fine tip and also with an > extra fast tip on the rod. > >
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Bill I'd be concerned that trimming a UL blank and using it as a Medium power rod would be "overpowering" the blank and lead to a blank failure. Another option would be to split a one piece 5'6" M rod and install a ferule. Good luck. Dan
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Thanks for the tips Roger. I sorted through the motors and while some are shorter, there are some with the longer 1/2 to 1" arbors that you suggested. Jeff's post above had prompted me to wonder last evening about adapting a coupling nut with epoxy to attach to the motors and I found that depending on the motor, that I can thread either a 1/4 or 5/16 nut quite snuggly onto the nylon shaft.
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Thanks guys. This puts me on the right path, and I will probably combine a bit of each of your ideas with mine to attach to a version of the compression chucks that were featured in RodMaker. Dan
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I have a friend that owns an electronics and metals recycling business that gave me a box full of several kinds of microwave motors to use for dryer motors and an epoxy mixer. The motors are 5/6 RPM, 30/35 RPM, and 36 RPM with most of the motors having a nylon "D" shaped arbor with a hole the same shape, and a few have an "I" shaped solid arbor. What is the best way to att
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Josh Clawson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Making an order for a couple rods on MHX-SJ781 blanks One will be cut down 6". Are you sure about wanting to cut 6" off of one of these blanks? Taking that much off the butt of the blank will reduce it's power and slow the action to make it fish like an UL-Mod or Slow. I would guess that you'd be h
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Tony Did you try Utmost Enterprises? Great service, and they are located "within a mile" of Batson Enterprises and when I've ordered from them it sounds like they pick up the blanks directly from Batson's warehouse so if it's still made they'll get it for you. Dan
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Guess I'm another vote against EVA arbors. While EVA generally stretches when used as a handle, if it is enclosed in a reel seat there would be no place for it to expand and it would likely wipe the glue off the blank when you install it unless you ream the arbor to fit. I suppose it could possibly compress, but it would have to very soft do that and it wouldn't be suitable for an arbor. Goo
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I am thinking about putting a "hidden" tube style hook keeper on a couple of rods - similar to the hook keeper that Shimano uses with their Cumara rods. For rods that would be fished with light hooks I thought I'd use about a 1/8" ID stainless or brass tube and seal the inside end with epoxy. Any comments pro or con to this style hook keeper, and any installation tips would be
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Black ink from an ink jet printer maybe??? You'll probably want to do some testing for colorfastness before you put anything on your weave. Good luck.
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Take a permanent maker like a Sharpie and draw over the marks you want to remove and then immediately wipe it off with your thumb. The wet marker liquifies the dried on marks and it will lift right off and doing this won't harm the finish on your blank. As to getting the marker off of your thumb, you're on your own! Good luck! Dan
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Craig - Even if there isn't a stock blank that fits your exact specifications, there are no doubt blanks that can be adapted to be precisely what you want. If you post a description of what you're looking for, the members here will point you in the right direction. Dan
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Batson does offer a 7'6" RX8 blank in their Walleye series of blanks that may interest you. Mudhole offers both a one piece and two piece version of their MHX blanks in a HS9000. I got one a few weeks ago and haven't built it yet, but the blank feels VERY nice. Dan
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Roger, Since the person giving the gift doesn't seem to know what style of fishing to request that the rod be built for, could you maybe get a look at the gift recipient's tackle boxes, rods and reels, etc? That would help narrow down what their preferences appear to be so that you can build something to complement what they currently have for the style of fishing that they do. My vote for
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Fenwick's new "EliteTECH River Runner" rods have what appears to be a combination Tennessee handle and uplocking "hidden hood" reel seat design that is seemless like a TN handle, but is shaped like a fly rod handle. Haven't seen one in person, but they're interesting looking and would combine TN comfort with ease of reel attachment. Dan
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I've got a XSB802.75 blank on order that I plan to build as a spinning rod and would guess that it will similar to a St Croix 68MXF for power. I'd suggest going to a store to see a St Croix rod in the 3,4, or 5 series of that blank to see if that's what you want powerwise. Batson also offers a 6'8" XF Walleye blank in their X8 series that's rated just a bit lighter than the XSB802.75 Da
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In the past using wax on ferrules was standard advice, but I have learned on the board here that that is not advisable. I tried some dry graphite lubricant on an old rod's ferrules yesterday and it seemed to work well. This may be an option to consider now that Trondak is no longer making their ferrule lube. Dan
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I would guess the reason you want a parabolic action flipping stick is to keep the fish from pulling off of the hook while you're fighting them. A fast or mod-fast rod is better for getting the fish out of cover quickly, and once they're in open water for the "fighting" part of things, use your drag or do like I do and push the free-spool as needed to control surges. (I've used th
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Thanks Steve - I didn't think of electrolysis as the reason they include the reel foot pad, but it makes sense.
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Thanks Steve. As always, your insights are much appreciated. The reason I had asked about masking the reel foot was that with their magnesium reels Pflueger provides an adhesive pad to protect the foot, though I would guess that is protect the foot from the mechanical pressures of a screw-type reel seat. I'll go with size A thread and wrap the reel directly to the tube as you suggested.
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Thanks Jay. Very sharp!
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Thanks Tom. The issue has been ordered. On a related note, any thoughts of adding a CD for back issue volumes 10 through 13? In the meantime, I was hoping to get the components for this and a couple of other rods ordered before the weekend, so additional information regarding parts will be appreciated.
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Thanks Joe. Great idea with wrapping tool!
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I had been thinking about doing this for a while, and have since seen others post passing comments about it, but I have a couple of questions. This would be a variation of a Tennessee handle spinning rod with about an 11" Graphite tube and a 7'6" ML blank. This rod will be used mostly for presentations with the rod horizontal or slightly lower, so lighter overall weight is more impor
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If the blanks that you'll be turning the handles for are large enough, I'd recommend pre-boring the cork rings out to 3/8" before gluing them up and using a larger dia mandrel. Dan
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Thanks for the info Roger. I'll add "tip tube inspection" to my pre-build process. Being a CPA and former tool & diemaker, when I saw the tip measurement for a blank listed as .068" / 5/64 I thought "No, those are NOT the same size. So which one is it?" Guess I'll end up ordering an extra tip or so to cover the difference between .068 and .078. Dan
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Thanks Tom. That's what I thought. I know that there will be variations within tolerances for the finished size of the blanks, but the thing that made me wonder was that a major blank company's site listed the tip size in both decimal and 64ths formats and that the sizes are listed half a 64th larger than the decimal size Have a happy Thanksgiving! Dan
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It seems like the tip size in 64ths listed for some blanks is .010 - .012 larger than the decimal size that they list for the same blank. Am I right that it would seem better to go down a half size on the tube in these cases or is it better to have this much play in the fit? (This assuming that the tube and tip sizes run true.) In the past I've always used the smallest tip top that would f
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