The Mac will run any and all of the programs listed above, including Linux software. I would suggest Quark Xpress, but it's pricey and overkill just to make decals. ...............
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I use scissors. ..............
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Depends on what package you put together. Non-motorized versions are $699 and the complete motorized package is $875. I would definitely add 1 if not 2 more rod supports. That's about all you need. If you add specialty turning items the cost will rise, but for under $1000 you have have a machine that will perform any wrapping chore you can think of and last you a lifetime. ...........
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Other than looking odd to some, not really. ...............
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I don't think the tape is the culprit, but you might try it without just to see. Get yourself a scrap block of wood and set it so that you can rest your hand on it while you apply finish. Load the brush, lower it to the wrap, extending just past the wrap edge, and touch the rod, hold still and rotate the rod a full revolution. A perfect, straight and even edge will be the result. ..........
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Good publishing software can run many, many hundreds (even thousands) of dollars. But, you don't need that much just to make a decal. You simply need to be able to manipulate text and images. Most good word processing programs will do that nowadays. So you may already have all you need. Having said that, you can buy Photoshop Elements for about $100 I think. With it, you'll be able to do abo
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A couple of possibilities - you mention barrier tape. I have no idea what that is, but get rid of it. Also, never use a solvent wipe as the last step in preparing to apply finish. Your alcohol could be causing the problem as well. Also, amine blush can sometimes occur if the right combination of moisture and humidity is present. It's rare, but does happen. The end result looks something like
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If the line hits the frame anywhere - the guide is in the wrong place. Correctly located, the line doesn't care which way the guide is sitting - it's only concerned with the ring opening. ..............
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Mike, Sorry I didn't mention you - didn't know you had it for sale. I'm sure more than few guys will be taking a hard look at it at the Expo after seeing some carbon skin grips up close for the very first time. .............
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Scott's Custom Rods or FishSticks is going to be your best bet for that kind of thing at the Expo. .............
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It goes on amber. It's not a water-white clear coating such as Permagloss. But it typically doesn't get much if any darker over time. What you have at the outset is pretty much it. ...................
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Don't wax the wraps, just the lathe bed. It won't bother your thread a bit. Just stay away from sprays or liquids. Any good carnuba paste car wax will work and hold up for many, many months. ..................
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If you'll wax your lathe bed, any epoxy that drips on it can be popped off with a fingernail once it cures. ..............
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This year, in addition to the Renzetti Master Rod Lathe, we will have a 2nd quality rod wrapping machine to give away at the RodMaker Reception on Friday night just prior to the start of the Expo. This 2nd unit, a Forecast rod wrapping machine, comes to us through the generosity of the folks at Batson Enterprises. As always, there is nothing to purchase. No raffles, no tickets to buy - it'
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Even more important, with that light, soft tip, you can see everything that your bait is doing. It's not hard to tell when a strike is imminent. ............
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You do not want to use a too small ring for the bumper guide if the rod is expected to flex well into the butt section. You don't want any side load on the bumper guide and thus a larger ring in a low frame (bent/shaped even lower) is your best bet for use as a bumper guide. The line may need a bit of leeway in that area if you expect a full flex in the butt section. Generally a size 8 is suffi
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Like the length, but for me personally, I'd back down by 1 on the power. If it's available in a 782, that would be my preference. .................
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It is possible to ride one of the PART shuttles from the airport to their main hub located about a mile south of the airport. The shuttle is free. From there, for a paltry $2 you can ride the PART bus about 8 miles to downtown High Point, departing at the bus station which is located 2 blocks from the Radisson and Showplace. Here is the information that the regional director of PART sent m
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10% or $10, whichever is less. In the case of a direct sale to the customer, the constructive sale price upon which the tax is liable would be 60% of the total. On that amount, 10% or $10, whichever is less. I think I figured this up and on any rod that you sell for more than about $170 the tax is a flat $10. .................
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Clamping a rod blank to a table and then striking the tip doesn't approximate anything that will ever take place out on the the water. No blank will ever oscillate like that in actual use - the butt is held by the human hand (not clamped to a fixed object) and in a state where that sort of thing just isn't going to take place. So no, it's not really relevant, at least not any more so than using
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Keep in mind you have to be wearing the pants for this to work. I once suggested this to a rod builder and he put the bottles in the pockets of a pair of pants that were hanging in his closet. He was pretty upset when things didn't work as I had told him. But... wasn't wearing the pants. ..................
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The thinner the finish, the more easily bubbles escape. Heat temporarily thins the epoxy. And... air expands when heated. Thus with heat, small bubbles become larger bubbles which rise through the finish to the surface more quickly. Heat from a gentle flame will not harm your epoxy. "Torching" to the point of applying extremely strong heat does indeed change the properties of the ep
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Tom, The amount to deflect the rod for the measurements is an amount equal to 1/3rd of its length. For instance, on a 12' rod, you would want to add weight until the tip has deflected 48 inches. Make sense? ................
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You're building a new rod, the tax is indeed due. Charge him. ................
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ERN doesn't necessarily correlate to line number. It's a power rating. One mistake people make is expecting, or trying, to make the ERN give the reading they think it should. Just take the measurement and record the number. Use that to compare to other rods. The thing you can be sure of is that the ERN works - a rod with an ERN of say, 7, will be more powerful than one with an ERN of 6, an
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That's it - I 'm going to steal it and publish it retroactive - this time, 6 years ago. .................
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That can vary depending on the person making the cast. A very strong person that really heaves the rod might do best to hold the line at 2 or 3 ounces. A person that is elderly, small, female, etc., and isn't going to put much power into it might need a full 6 ounces to get it to load easily. Generally, and keep in mind that I have not used that particular blank, a point about midways in the
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PG has a hot solvent in it, but even a single unthinned coat of CP is usually enough protect a decal from it. ................
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Stiff, metal guides certainly cause that at the foot edge, no doubt about that. But it is more likely and more often seen in epoxy that has been super heated by torching. If you don't watch out, I'm going to hack into your computer, steal your wrap patterns intended for your next book, and then publish them under my own name... a year ago. So be careful. ...................
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If you're repairing (splicing) the old rod, it's a repair. If you're building a new rod, which it will be if you use a new blank, it's a new rod. ..........
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