Clamping a rod blank to a table and then striking the tip doesn't approximate anything that will ever take place out on the the water. No blank will ever oscillate like that in actual use - the butt is held by the human hand (not clamped to a fixed object) and in a state where that sort of thing just isn't going to take place. So no, it's not really relevant, at least not any more so than using
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Keep in mind you have to be wearing the pants for this to work. I once suggested this to a rod builder and he put the bottles in the pockets of a pair of pants that were hanging in his closet. He was pretty upset when things didn't work as I had told him. But... wasn't wearing the pants. ..................
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The thinner the finish, the more easily bubbles escape. Heat temporarily thins the epoxy. And... air expands when heated. Thus with heat, small bubbles become larger bubbles which rise through the finish to the surface more quickly. Heat from a gentle flame will not harm your epoxy. "Torching" to the point of applying extremely strong heat does indeed change the properties of the ep
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Tom, The amount to deflect the rod for the measurements is an amount equal to 1/3rd of its length. For instance, on a 12' rod, you would want to add weight until the tip has deflected 48 inches. Make sense? ................
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You're building a new rod, the tax is indeed due. Charge him. ................
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ERN doesn't necessarily correlate to line number. It's a power rating. One mistake people make is expecting, or trying, to make the ERN give the reading they think it should. Just take the measurement and record the number. Use that to compare to other rods. The thing you can be sure of is that the ERN works - a rod with an ERN of say, 7, will be more powerful than one with an ERN of 6, an
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That's it - I 'm going to steal it and publish it retroactive - this time, 6 years ago. .................
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That can vary depending on the person making the cast. A very strong person that really heaves the rod might do best to hold the line at 2 or 3 ounces. A person that is elderly, small, female, etc., and isn't going to put much power into it might need a full 6 ounces to get it to load easily. Generally, and keep in mind that I have not used that particular blank, a point about midways in the
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PG has a hot solvent in it, but even a single unthinned coat of CP is usually enough protect a decal from it. ................
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Stiff, metal guides certainly cause that at the foot edge, no doubt about that. But it is more likely and more often seen in epoxy that has been super heated by torching. If you don't watch out, I'm going to hack into your computer, steal your wrap patterns intended for your next book, and then publish them under my own name... a year ago. So be careful. ...................
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If you're repairing (splicing) the old rod, it's a repair. If you're building a new rod, which it will be if you use a new blank, it's a new rod. ..........
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Jason, Most people that have them are happy with them and get perfect results. But when you switch to different finishes at different temperatures, the information in the article offers insight on the little things you have to watch out for - the weight of the ball, the position of it, etc. All tiny little things but ones that can make the difference between simple perfection and frustration
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Bob, My comment was in response to Spencer's above. Only the Dh guys that don't understand the CCS measurements have had a "cow" over it. I should have worded that a bit better. ............
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If they'd follow the instructions in the article, those problems wouldn't happen. I have no idea what instructions Pacific Bay supplies with their mixer or what angle they have their unit set at. Torching an epoxy changes its properties and can sometimes lead to cracking and crazing of the cured material down the road. .................
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If they'd follow the instructions in the article, those problems wouldn't happen. I have no idea what instructions Pacific Bay supplies with their mixer or what angle they have their unit set at. .................
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No camera tricks or black lighting. In fact, what you see on the cover really doesn't do the decal justice. It's hard for a camera to capture these things as they really appear. There is so much going on with the sparkle and pop, than you have to shoot them in very subdued light. The lights were actually turned off for that photo. Only way I could keep from overwhelming the light meter. ....
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Motorized mixers, good ones, have never caused an epoxy to fail to set and cure properly. If there was some inherent fault with them, then no one could get a nice epoxy mix while using one. When something like that happens, the first place to look is at "operator error." .................
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Weight savings can be important, but you have to be reasonable about such things. Using a 25 instead of a 20 isn't going to add any appreciable weight in a location that is going to cost you much of anything. Such tiny weight increases on the lowest 1/3rd of the rod are molehills, not mountains. The rest of your question can only be answered by trying it. Tape up a set and go cast it a coupl
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35mm, and probably a shorter reel stem than your 2000. If you try a 20 just plot it on the straight line path but it will probably require that you move it up a bit. If you have to go too far, I'd fall back on the 25 just for the additional height. ..................
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Both ThreadMaster and LS Supreme High Build would be good choices for covering the coin. They remain relatively clear. ...............
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Unless you're using the same reel that I am, those distances won't be the same. Nor should they be. But, in my own case, with the Quantum Kinetic 1000, the 20 is set at about 19-3/4 inches. If your reel has a larger spool than this particular 1000, you will probably need to move to the 25 guide to get the height for the best line path and still stay in the 19 to 21 inch range. ..........
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"...even allowing for a little more hardner than resin... Put in more hardener than resin and the result will be - tacky finish. More hardener does not make the mix cure more quickly nor harder. It actually prevents it from hardening completely. Never, never, never, tinker with the 1 to 1 mix ratio. Get that right, and every batch will cure perfectly. All you can do now is reapply
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Check the online library page here for the article on repairing broken rods. Takes some care and patience, but they can be successfully and functionally repaired. ..............
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I find the super fast tip, similar to our American style Hot Shot blanks, allows for a much lighter lure to be cast while retaining good power in the butt. The specs from the 2 blanks you list would indicate very different blanks. The 2nd one is more powerful, yet capable of casting lighter lures due to the faster taper and lighter tip. Assuming they are made from the same material, compari
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From looking, I know I would prefer the 2nd one you list, but that's just me. Others may like something different. ....................
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Several have done it - you can do it too. Should be some photos on the photo page but you'll have to search for them. ................
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And remember, the ERN is a power rating, not a line rating. This is something the "DH crowd" just can't seem to grasp. ...............
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Don't brush the finish around - brushing creates bubbles. Lower the brush to the wrap and rotate the rod one revolution. That's all you need to do. .................
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Guides are guides. The line doesn't care if you refer to the guide as a fly guide, or casting guide, or spinning guide. ..............
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"I just measured a board and the tape measure says it's 30 inches long - but it can't be that short!" Well, it is what it is. Regardless of what the blank is supposed to be, it is what it is. The CCS system can't be fooled any more than a tape measure can. It measures what it measures and it will be correct. Impossible to be anything else. Remember, the terms "moderate-fas
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