Okay, excuse me, I hadn't seen that. I was going by the instructions for the original chart. No doubt they've made some changes with the advent of the micro guides. ..............
Forum: rodboard

One of the stouter popping rod blanks might do the trick, but that 1-1/2 ounce requirement will be pushing the upper limit. You might also look at some of the Hot Shot rod blanks - they would make a nice handling fast action rod for light surf use and generally have a bit more power in the butt than a popping blank. ..............
Forum: rodboard

The larger the pulley on the headstock in relation to the one on the motor, the slower the chuck will turn. Slower is usually better for a beginner. I have seen headstock pulleys on home-made wrapping machines that were 10 inches in diameter. Just remember that as you move up in size, you increase the back turning resistance against the motor. So a slower set up also means you'll have a little ha
Forum: rodboard

I've never heard that "general rule" about the butt guide being 15 to 17 from the face of the spool. Sounds a little close to me but the only way to know is to try it. I supposed it might work if the line is supple enough. .............
Forum: rodboard

Probably cheaper to buy. Most good hardware stores (not Lowes or Home Depot) will have a selection. You may have to rig up a sleeve or arbor to mount to your motor shaft. Graingers, if you have one locally, will almost surely have a wide variety of aluminum pulleys. .................
Forum: rodboard

The chart is no different than the story pole type system that many have used for years. If you know how many guides you are going to use, either will place your guides in a progressive fashion along the blank. It's a great place to start and almost automatic once you do a few. From there, you should still do a static distribution test. If you don't like what you see, back up, choose the set of l
Forum: rodboard

The line should not revolve around the ring. The idea is to have it contact the ring at one point and stay put as much as possible. ......................
Forum: rodboard

Write down the size openings Ken gave you - you're going to want them again at some point. Everybody reading this should copy them down for future reference. If you're just going to run a regular WF fly line I'd do this - #16, #10 (ceramics) and then move right to #2 snakes the rest of the way out. You don't need more than 3 guide sizes on any rod. ........................
Forum: rodboard

I believe Mud Hole has the instructions for the chart available on their website for download, so you can get an idea of how it works before you buy. ...............
Forum: rodboard

Why not just try it? The particular ink you've used may or may not react to the CP or epoxy in the same way that the pen or ink used by someone else might. It would be very disappointing if you went on the word of someone else with even a slightly different product and got bad results. Make a second inscription on a scrap piece of rod. Apply some CP to it and see if it smears. If not, apply
Forum: rodboard

They should be functional first and foremost, but I'm not sure accuracy is in the cards. I have no idea how you would make an otherwise good rod blank into an inaccurate casting tool. I'd have to give that a great deal of thought. Every rod I've ever owned, either commercially built or one of my own, has been every bit as accurate as I am. ............
Forum: rodboard

All you needed to do was simply email or call me and I've have gladly put another in the mail to you right away. About 2% of the total mailing gets damaged, lost or stolen each time out. I have extra copies printed so I can cover such damaged or missing issues. ................
Forum: rodboard

The main thing to consider is how quickly water will freeze in the guide rings in the environment you're going to be in. If the inside of your hut is warm enough that this isn't happening at all on your present rods, then you can likely use smaller guides without any problem as well. But if you're getting freezing on size 6's or 7's now, you can count on freezing in the smaller guides - it'll ju
Forum: rodboard

Unless you have the CCS numbers on your blank and can compare them to what you're looking at online, the best way to ensure that you get what you want is to pick up the phone and call the dealer and discuss things with him/her. One of the nice things about the sponsors to the left is the fact that they still do business the old fashioned way - they're happy to discuss your needs and advise you
Forum: rodboard

As of this morning I have 6 sets left. Not enough of the older issues left in sufficient numbers to allow me to assemble any more such sets. When these are gone, they're gone. ................... Clearing out the last of the oldest RodMaker back issues, I have 7 early issues that are too few in number to put or keep on the website. I can make up a few sets for those interested and sell the
Forum: rodboard

I appreciate your comment. A spell checker could be added but there is a cost associated with it. Funds are limited and therefore I have to set priorities. A forum spell checker is a little bit low on the list compared to other things that need tending to. Sorry. .................
Forum: rodboard

Second hand info generally tends to leave out some important details. I think we can all assume that we don't have enough here to go on. ............
Forum: rodboard

There is a chance that the blanks were not kept in the oven long enough, or that the oven temperature never reached the required level. It's also possible that a problem existed with the resin in the prepeg. However, this would also tend to result in rods that failed in use. I would find it hard to believe that a rod that is turning or twisting due to heat from the back of an open pickup truc
Forum: rodboard

Did this actually happen or was it a "for instance?" Which guides were turned - butt, mid, tip? ...............
Forum: rodboard

I don't think that number is terribly out of line. But you can likely do it with a guide or two less. Maybe. I sense the problem you're having is that with a very small spool reel and light line your choker guide falls a pretty good distance back from the tip of a rod that lone. That's as it should be with that reel and line. The additional guides you're having to use are distributing stress o
Forum: rodboard

If you're happy with the distance you're getting and can reach whatever you need to reach, all else is really immaterial. But you asked, so I'd tell you that with most of my 6 foot rods in that class I can easily toss a lure beyond 100 feet. Which is really further than I can effectively fish a 6 foot rod anyway. .............
Forum: rodboard

Generally yes. I'm pretty good about making sure all the other authors get due credit. I'm not as concerned about myself. ..............
Forum: rodboard

Epoxy formulators try to create epoxy systems that are tailored to the task at hand. I think you'd find most of the West Systems products to be very low build - even more so than most "lite" thread wrap epoxies. It would surely encapsulate your thread wraps, but you might find it less than extremely user friendly. I can also tell you for certain that their products are not very prone to
Forum: rodboard

It wouldn't take much effort to mock up the rod, build it on the spine and try it. Then build it on the straightest axis and try that. Then build it on neither and try that. I doubt you'll be able to tell any difference, but either way at least you'd have your own first hand experience to go by. .................
Forum: rodboard

The line (or lure) travels in the direction the rod tip is moving at the time of release. "Tracking" is a bit of mumbo jumbo for the most part. Turning or twisting around a central axis isn't going to cause casting inaccuracy. The only way to get the line (or lure) to go anywhere other than where you throw it is to have the tip travel in an arc. This is only really possible if you have
Forum: rodboard

You can do it either way, but generally it's more common to assemble the handle first and then do the butt wrapping. The only other reason I can see for doing it the other way around would be if you want to hide the butt tie-off wrap under the foregrip or seat. The foregrip has never gotten in my way when doing any sort of butt wrap or weave. All you need is an inch in front of the foregrip an
Forum: rodboard

It's unlikely you'll find a replacement section so there's no harm in attempting a repair. Done properly it'll work fine. Consult the article in the online library for help. Do to the location of the break you will have to go inside with an inner sleeve, however, in order to keep the ferrule functional. This is the only trouble spot but you might as well give it a shot. If you can't make it work
Forum: rodboard

You're going to have to contact Papillo, although it doesn't sound like that paper is pliable enough for what you're trying to do. Decal Connection used to sell do-it-yourself water slide paper. They understand this business and I'd give them a call or shoot them an email. ..................
Forum: rodboard

The new issue of RodMaker, Volume 12 #5 will mail in about 2 weeks. If you happen to be a subscriber, please check the numbers to the right of your name on your last mailing cover. They indicate the last issue of your subscription with a volume and issue number. If you see "12-4" your subscription has expired and you won't be getting the new one unless you renew pretty quickly. The n
Forum: rodboard

You are correct. It happens, but it's fairly rare. If it was all too commonplace, epoxies would not have remained on the market. No one would be able to use them. Obviously this isn't a blank check to use them carelessly or to disregard normal cautions, but used with common sense epoxies are reasonably safe. ...............
Forum: rodboard