It's not a problem with math or physics - they are what they are. But you have to apply them correctly to what you're trying to do. I never balance my rods - I build them as light as I possibly can and outside of very long saltwater rods, most end up being close to neutral. But I realize that other techniques used by certain fishermen do require different points of balance. This comes down to
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Take a rod blank and begin pushing its tip into the ceiling. Look at it. Where does it initially flex? In the upper 1/3rd? Then it would be labeled as having a "fast action." The only problem with the old "fast, moderate, slow" rating system has to do very poor resolution. A lot of blanks initially flex in the upper 1/3rd of their length, so they're all rated fast. But so
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The action doesn't change - action is a property which is measured in a single static position. This was true even before the Common Cents System came along. Action is "where the rod initially flexes." And this is the definition given by 95% of all the rod and blank designers who have ever lived. So it doesn't matter if you're working a crank bait or fighting a large fish - the blan
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Peter, Yes, the frequency, or the Common Cents Frequency, is affected by the weight distribution along the rod. A rod with a more weight near the tip is going to have a lower CCF reading than one with more of its weight closer to the butt. The material the rod is made from has a lot to do with frequency as well, but you're certainly correct about how that material (weight) is distributed alo
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Bobby, Yes you're mistaken. The quote you use does not say blanks with identical power and action measurements will be identical in all regards. In fact, we've said many times, both here and in the articles, that to get the exact blank, in every respect including "feel," you have to match more than just power and action numbers. I would have thought this would be obvious. I can g
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You're mistaken. The intent of the CCS was simply to put quantifiable and relative power and action figures on rods and blanks - something that had never been offered prior to the advent of the CCS. Obviously it does that perfectly. As far as obtaining identical or very similar blanks from one manufacturer to the next, the only way to do that is to put as many numbers together as possible, an
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Companies have to decide how much information they believe is necessary in order to help their customers select the proper blank for their desired task. They have to balance the time it takes to record all the various measurements versus how their broad customer spectrum values such measurements. North Fork is already way ahead of the curve by offering the industry's only across the board powe
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Most folks like the hard EVA better, but it's not as easy to mount because it doesn't stretch as easily. Still, if you adhere to the mounting technique on the FAQs page you should be okay. Just don't expect to stretch it quite as far. .............
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The should be as round as possible. It is not necessary to have the 3rd wheel for holding down the rod, but I think I'd use it if you ever intend to do any power turning or wrapping at high speed. If you're only using it for drying, you can get by without it, although it's not a bad idea to have some slight means of making sure the rod can't climb out of the supports if something else should b
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I'll assume you haven't read the article on the system as it appeared last year in RodMaker. Put the choker guide, your first #8 (or whatever your smallest guide is) about 67 to 68 inches beyond the reel spool face. The rest of the small guide go between there and the tiptop. The larger guides are distributed between the reel and the choker guide. ..............
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I'd need your reel to set it up, but I'd go with the New Guide Concept. I doubt you'd need more than a 40, most likely a 30, to start. I'd quickly reduce the guides to the choker guide and then then run the same sizes the rest of the way out. I can't give you exact sizes without being able to plot the line path from your reel to the choker guide, but I'd guess you'd end up with something along
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You would never need guides that large for braid. That's just a lot of unnecessary weight to hang on the rod. No advantages either way, only disadvantages. If you still intend to go that route you'd have to just weigh a couple guides - one BSVAG versus one wire guide of the same size and note the percentage difference. That would give you a rough idea of the total difference between two comple
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You'll probably be okay, just don't spray it inside and keep the tubes and cores away from your finishing stuff. ...........
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It's loaded with silicone. Don't spray it anywhere inside your shop. .........
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Spine orientation will not automatically increase casting distance. Distance is affected by the load you place on the rod and the amount of power in the casting axis. Putting the spine in a particular orientation might increase distance with say, 1/2 ounce, and decrease distance with 3/4 ounce. And even then, you'd have to cast on the same axis each time for it make any constant difference. I
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I doubt you'd have enough volume to make any practical difference, not to mention that it would be tough to obtain the kind of seal that would allow the helium to stay in place and active over many seasons. .............
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Several people have asked about Steve Gardner. He stopped by the RodMaker offices yesterday. His computer has been on the fritz and he hasn't spent a great deal of time worrying about having it fixed or getting another. But he's fine and doing well. In fact, he brought some items he's been working on that I think will completely revolutionize how wood is used on custom fishing rods. Really neat s
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It won't make any difference. Spine has nothing to do with rod twist. All rods with the guides on top will attempt to turn towards the direction the load is being applied from (the fish in the water). Rods with the guides on the bottom (spiral wrap) are already in that configuration and thus they don't attempt to spin or twist. ...............
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You won't need to scuff the previous coat unless you've waited more than about 3 days. Inside of that you're fine to go as you are. ................
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The warmer the epoxy is the faster it will set. If you warmed it but didn't let it cool before mixing, then that was why it set so quickly. Best application temperature for ease of application and good pot life is going to be from 70F to 80F. For every 20F above that range, you halve the set and cure time. However, it shouldn't be taking you more than perhaps 30 seconds to a minute at the mo
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I have recent;y switched to the Pacific Bay Minima 4 from the standpoint that they are more than adequate and far lighter than any other guide that offers a similar ring opening. Other than the fact that they're louder than ceramics (same noise when you strip line that you have with snake or wire single foots) they've done well for me this season. The additional responsiveness that a rod offers
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Good way to go. The reel has no idea what line you put on it. I have always wished that reels were sized by letters instead of numbers. Too many fly fishermen are under the impression that a #67 reel must be spooled with a #6 or #7 line, only. ..........
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Make sure you're entering it correctly. Others are using it and having no problem. .............
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For the sake of any future warranty claim, you need the actual T&T decal. Even if you don't apply it to the rod, you need it tucked back so it can returned along with the rod if the need should ever arise. ...............
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It's a mistake you'll only make once. ...........
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Yes you could do that. Or, you could make a tape band, the length you desire and wrap it all the way around the rod. Slit it up the backside, remove it, lie it flat and then take your measurements from that. ..............
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The blank should have come with a decal. Contact T&T and ask them for one. If it is indeed a T&T blank, they will be happy to provide you with the decal. The last ones I saw were peel and stick, but I really don't know what they're using these days. ...............
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Your caliper will give you the diameter. To get the circumference you'd multiply that by 3.14. But you don't need to do any of that if you just want a decal that doesn't wrap all the way around the rod. Here's what I would suggest. Put a piece of tape on the rod where you want the decal to be. Make a rough sketch or outline of the decal size as you want it to appear on the rod. Then peel the t
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Any of the machines sold by American Tackle, Batson Enterprises or Pacific Bay would be good enough that you'd never have to upgrade. You might also look at the wooden wrappings from The Rod Shop, Inc. Their Eco-Wrapper has a great many fans. It's very unique. If you want to be able to do about everything under the sun including light duty turning, then the Renzetti or Custom Power Wrap mig
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I'd build a rod or two before I started spending money on power wrappers and dryers, unless you're absolutely sure you plan to be in this for the long haul. You can build rods without any sort of special equipment. A couple home-made wooden V-jigs, a spool of thread in a coffee cup and the strand run between a couple books for tension. I built several dozen rods that way. .................
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