I finally after 3 hours was able to cut off the aluminum ferrel that was to hold the aluminum butt. Be sure it is lined up properly and the last to go on the rod before bonding. I used rod bond, and it is everything they say it is. Boiling water did nothing to loosen it. I used carborundum discs to cut into the aluminum and even with half removed, the other half had to be hammered off. What a job. I won't make that mistake again. I should have finished the weave and feather inlays first, then lined them up to put the ferrel on, which I usually do when working with the rods, but this was a fatal mistake. Well, it didn't cost me the weave or feathers, so I can't get to upset over the work.
Sanford Hochman

It's a mistake you'll only make once.

...........

Sanford,
I am glad that you were able to remove the offender without damaging the blank.
Take care
Roger

I always glue, clean myself up, take a 10-minute break (restroom, drink, pick on the wife, etc.) and THEN go back to reassess the situation. Alignment, components, directionality and anything else I can screw up. Rod Bond is serious about the work it does ... tough stuff for sure.

I love masking tape. Dry fit, a piece on each item to mark, then a simple line to alien them up when I put the glue on. Like said, you will not do that again.

Bill - willierods.com

Sorry Sanford, but I didn't think there was a way to remove it and reuse it.

Like Tom said, you won't do that again!

Kevin

I had a thought along those lines last night.
I reamed and installed the grips and arbor for the reel seat and just slide it on and then the foregrip. It took 10-15 minutes to realize that I hadn't put any rod bond on the reel seat arbor. Luckily it hadnt set up yet and I was able to fix it before it became to late.