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Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Robert Elam
(---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: November 24, 2009 10:23PM
Hi all - Tonight, I finally got around to putting finish on the wraps of my first build and have some issues. I thought I'd ask here before I contacted Flex Coat as it very well could have been me.
I was using High Build and the resin portion had begun to crystalize so, I warmed both parts in 150* water until part A was clear. The instructions note that warming both will make it easier to mix and to apply. It was mixed (50/50 with syrenges) in a plastic cup with plastic stirrer, etc as per the directions. No cloudiness, streaks or bubbles. I began applying (I'll admit, being new, I'm slow but...) and within 10 minutes and 3 guides, it had begun to kick and I stopped halfway on the fourth guide as it was stringing off of the brush. Tips on how to re-start where I stopped would be appreciated. From what I've read, it really doesn't have an exp date so to speak. Everything looked fine. I have the codes from the bottom of the bottles if that's needed. I've worked in the boat business and currently work with epoxy resins making lab work surfaces so I'm no stranger to the chemistry of it. I'm just perplexed that it kicked so fast. Could my warming it have had something to do with that happening? If not, any other ideas? Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: November 24, 2009 10:30PM
The warmer the epoxy is the faster it will set. If you warmed it but didn't let it cool before mixing, then that was why it set so quickly. Best application temperature for ease of application and good pot life is going to be from 70F to 80F. For every 20F above that range, you halve the set and cure time.
However, it shouldn't be taking you more than perhaps 30 seconds to a minute at the most to coat a guide wrap. Your 3 minutes and more per guide is excessive. Load your brush, lower it to the wrap, then rotate the rod a full revolution. Move over a brush width and repeat. The finish will self level - you don't need to be brushing, poking, prodding, etc. That's unnecessary and wastes valuable time. ................ Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Robert Elam
(---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: November 24, 2009 10:40PM
Thanks Tom. That's kinda what I expected to hear. I'll speed it up!
Yes, I did mix it right out of the hot water. If I slightly scuff up where I left off, will I be fine continuing on that wrap? Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 24, 2009 11:09PM
Yes,
Roger Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Chuck Payne
(---.cable.mindspring.com)
Date: November 25, 2009 02:43AM
I doubt that you will need to scuff at all. I have literally waited weeks between coats without scuffing without any ill effects so far. A lot of people do it, and there may be a good reason I dont know about, but I havent had the problem with the rod I did it on Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: November 25, 2009 09:30AM
You won't need to scuff the previous coat unless you've waited more than about 3 days. Inside of that you're fine to go as you are.
................ Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Andrew Metzger
(---.afspc.af.mil)
Date: November 25, 2009 09:59AM
Roger, I did the same thing on my first finishing job, took me two batches of epoxy to finish a 7'6" 4wt flyrod......live and learn....have not had it happen since. Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Robert Elam
(---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: November 25, 2009 07:10PM
Andrew - I feel better now, thanks!
Thanks to all for the replies. I'll get back on it this evening with 'room temp' mix. Post haste. Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by:
Duane Richards
(---.nwrknj.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 25, 2009 09:00PM
Pouring out your mixed finish onto a flat piece of aluminum foil will also help add working time to your finish.
DR Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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