I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Robert Elam (---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: November 24, 2009 10:23PM

Hi all - Tonight, I finally got around to putting finish on the wraps of my first build and have some issues. I thought I'd ask here before I contacted Flex Coat as it very well could have been me.
I was using High Build and the resin portion had begun to crystalize so, I warmed both parts in 150* water until part A was clear. The instructions note that warming both will make it easier to mix and to apply. It was mixed (50/50 with syrenges) in a plastic cup with plastic stirrer, etc as per the directions. No cloudiness, streaks or bubbles.
I began applying (I'll admit, being new, I'm slow but...) and within 10 minutes and 3 guides, it had begun to kick and I stopped halfway on the fourth guide as it was stringing off of the brush. Tips on how to re-start where I stopped would be appreciated.
From what I've read, it really doesn't have an exp date so to speak. Everything looked fine. I have the codes from the bottom of the bottles if that's needed.
I've worked in the boat business and currently work with epoxy resins making lab work surfaces so I'm no stranger to the chemistry of it. I'm just perplexed that it kicked so fast. Could my warming it have had something to do with that happening? If not, any other ideas?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: November 24, 2009 10:30PM

The warmer the epoxy is the faster it will set. If you warmed it but didn't let it cool before mixing, then that was why it set so quickly. Best application temperature for ease of application and good pot life is going to be from 70F to 80F. For every 20F above that range, you halve the set and cure time.

However, it shouldn't be taking you more than perhaps 30 seconds to a minute at the most to coat a guide wrap. Your 3 minutes and more per guide is excessive. Load your brush, lower it to the wrap, then rotate the rod a full revolution. Move over a brush width and repeat. The finish will self level - you don't need to be brushing, poking, prodding, etc. That's unnecessary and wastes valuable time.

................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Robert Elam (---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: November 24, 2009 10:40PM

Thanks Tom. That's kinda what I expected to hear. I'll speed it up!
Yes, I did mix it right out of the hot water. If I slightly scuff up where I left off, will I be fine continuing on that wrap?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 24, 2009 11:09PM

Yes,
Roger

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Chuck Payne (---.cable.mindspring.com)
Date: November 25, 2009 02:43AM

I doubt that you will need to scuff at all. I have literally waited weeks between coats without scuffing without any ill effects so far. A lot of people do it, and there may be a good reason I dont know about, but I havent had the problem with the rod I did it on

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: November 25, 2009 09:30AM

You won't need to scuff the previous coat unless you've waited more than about 3 days. Inside of that you're fine to go as you are.

................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Andrew Metzger (---.afspc.af.mil)
Date: November 25, 2009 09:59AM

Roger, I did the same thing on my first finishing job, took me two batches of epoxy to finish a 7'6" 4wt flyrod......live and learn....have not had it happen since.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Robert Elam (---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: November 25, 2009 07:10PM

Andrew - I feel better now, thanks!
Thanks to all for the replies. I'll get back on it this evening with 'room temp' mix. Post haste.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Flex Coat problem
Posted by: Duane Richards (---.nwrknj.east.verizon.net)
Date: November 25, 2009 09:00PM

Pouring out your mixed finish onto a flat piece of aluminum foil will also help add working time to your finish.

DR

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster