John what reel are you going to use? It certainly is a viable project.
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Rogue K762 at Bingham Ent. I also think I saw a few at Angler's Workshop. X Fast action blanks. Developed for kokanee fishing, they are a very soft mouthed fish so the blanks are built accordingly.
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Order this month's and the next few RodMaker issues it's all in there.
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St Croix 3, 4 or 5C69MLXF in whichever blank you like the price of.
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We need to know line and lure size and weight to recommend a blank. Light line fishing or the newly developing heavier technigues take two different blanks.
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Fuji Alconites are nice as are all the guides makers like Batson, American Tackle, Sevier, Pac Bay. They all make ceramic single foot low fly guides. I wouldn't use more than one double foot guide, I've built quite a few with no double foots.
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Wrap some masking tape around the seat to give you a straight edge to cut against and than dress up lightly with sandpaper block or a fine file.
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Kyle, I would try the Angler's Workshop SAF9012 which is a Graphite USA blank which have a very good saltwater reputation. Their part number for the blank is B L S 1014. The price now is considerably less than listed on the site. Very tough blanks. I have 3 of them in different configurations and weights I use in tough fishing conditions here in the Pacific Northwest and in Alaska. Don't own a
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Jonathan, The Steez rod I looked at was not a blank through design, built like the old rod were. Is that how yours is also?
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No way I'd have a GLX in a kayak after fishing my 6 and 8 wts for over 12 years, they just don't hold up to tough conditions. I'd find a hardier, tougher blank like Angler's Workshop Salt Stalker, Graphite USA, CTS, or something similar. Sooner or later you have to land or release a big fish and that's when the rubber meats the road. If I didn't already have all the fly reels I'll ever need I'd
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Zeeke, I assume this is the same build Tom tried to help with almost 2 weeks ago. Since you are virtually changing everything, I wouldn't be so attached to the grip unless it is custom engraved or something. I'd just start from scratch and save a bunch of work and headaches.
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I bet there are white CTS blank in country right now, I've built 3 white blanks and have never had to wait as long as you mentioned for one. I've ordered custom colored 3 piece blanks from CTS and didn't wait that long for them, though they are getting awfully popular here. As Jim said Lamiglas makes great blanks and beautiful custom colors also.
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Why can't you use the old ferrule?
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Brad, Looks like Pac Bay doesn't make them anymore. I have a bunch of them, if you can't find one I'll part with one. Looks like they are bored for 1/4 inch. You can wrap some thread on the blank to make up the difference on a larger bored insert easily.
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If everyone is being honest, as per their agreement with Sage, they are all sold at the same price. Where you are allowed to deal is on components, lines, reels and shipping costs.
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Brad, I wouldn't use a 16 mm reelseat on a spinning rod. St Croix, G Loomis, and many others have went to at least a 17 mm seat. The smaller seat isn't nearly as comfortable to fish with as a larger seat. Pac Bay makes a 17 mm cork skeleton also, give you some extra realseat hood color options. G Loomis used the Pac Bay seats for many, many years. Another option is the Super Sticker 17 mm reelse
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Garnet/ black or white trim. Cobalt blue. Godebrud or Rice fushia with no CP. Gunmetal grey. I saw an XMG 50 Lamiglas which is a close color in a green/gold that was nice. Red/black Classic twist would also look good I think in my mind's eye.
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The concentrated Tide powder boxes, set on their side, hold the Mags perfectly, and places like IKEA have magazine boxes. The nice wood ones are $2.
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The GLX has been out since '92-'93 you don't think someone has gotten something better or at least similar figured out by now? There are quite a few of the Diawas on sale used on the bass forums, guides have been a problem as mentioned above.
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I've fished a few, wouldn't put them in a backup only rod catagory. I've enjoyed the ones I've tried.
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Look at the GS60 2M Tiger Eye blank at Black Dog or Neil's.
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Looks like they are bringing back all the old stuff. Non-ceramics guides are all the sudden the best again. Illustrations of this procedure and how to do it are in Clemens' book from the 80's. A new generation of Wally World anglers to hype. Where were all these great insights for the time period from then to now?
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I think Tom is referring to the pendulum cast. The single spey where the underhand (lower) is the power hand is also called that sometimes.
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Noticed years ago that the Sage XPs had smaller guides on their factory rods than other manufactures on the rack, so one day when the shop was slow I checked the guide sizes of all the XPs in the shop and have used those sizes, unless the rod had to pass some big knots, etc. which is very rare. I use a 1/0 guide on a 5 wt, size 1 on a 7 wt and a 1 or 2 on an 8 wt depending on the type line used
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Years ago Fishing Facts did an article where they looked at the structure of a bass' mouth and what the average person would have around that would approximate it for hook penatration tests on various hooks. They found out the average corrigated box was a very close approximation and they did a bunch of tests of the hot hooks of the time. One of the hottest hooks than but it was as dull as a deer
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John, The thread your talking about has a tensile strength of about 4.5 lbs per revolution in the wrap. Like Dave said thread strength isn't an issue.
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The manufacturers are backing away from the long blanks and I ses less and less of them being used also. Raven and others still build rods. I'm not sure anyone bulds a 15 ft light powered blank in spey rods either.
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Ash, We need more info to help you. Spinning, casting? The best way to do it for a spinning rod is to buy one each of the brand guides you like and multiple tip guides, keep them on a spot to be used only for sizing and test casting. When you find the setup you like, order your guides.
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There's a good chance, there is probably some cork/eva foam between the blank and cap. Dig it all out with a sharp knife and install it back on the rod with Epoxy glue or a good waterproof glue, the polyurethane glues like Gorilla glue expand many times more than the initial glue up so they can leave a mess that you continually have to clean up as they set.
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It can be done quite easily, If you want to keep the full length then it's a rebuild. If you can live with a shorter rod just hacksaw off the length you want and file a step in the cork/eva to reinstall the old buttcap or a replacement cap for about $1.
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