Just wondering, with all the thread colors they may be dropping, are the metallic braids going to stay? I know they discontinued the winder cards of them already.
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Started playing with this stuff, and it's super easy to use once you get the hang of it. One thing I have come up with is an easy way of dampening the inside of reel seats to install bushings and the inside of cork grips for installation. Use a gun cleaning rod and bore mop style end soaked in water, and squeeze some out if necessary. With rifle sizes from 0.220" to 0.500", and the
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Anyone tried Diamondite for bonding seats or grips to blanks? As long as there is a good fit, it sounds like it might work. I'll try one next week and post results. Marc
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Hey Billy - often in walleye country you would be catching sheepshead or carp in that case. Maybe we should just work on a good drag-the bottom nitecrawler rod, and you could at least work on catching the biggest bottome sucker of the day! Could probably build it with all the left over, unused parts from other rods !! Have fun - Marc
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Thanks again for all the info Bill. I am going to Sumo this weekend on a walleye spinning rod, and was wondering how long you leave the handle clamped after glueing? It's a standard 9" rear gip, 17 MM seat, 2-1/2" fore grip. Also, what reel seat arbors have you had the best luck with on Sumo Glue? Thanks, Marc
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Walleye rods make up 50% of my builds. I think you will like it best with the 9" rear grip as the rod will balance better which will improve your "feel". Also, just cast a few times in to the wind with one of those stubby rear grips and you will want to run the rod thru a wood chipper! You could go as short as a 7" rear grip if your really wanted shorter - but I think you
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Wow - thank you Bob for the detailed process description. I am going to print this one out and keep it. Have a great day, Marc
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Thank you very much Bill. I am getting used to the Diamondite, but am going to break down and get some Sumo glue and give it a go too. I really appreciate your help, as I love rod building and want to be able to enjoy it as much as possible. I hope I can return the favor. The one area I am an expert in is "long line releasing" of the biggest fish of the day - so if you need any t
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Hey Bob, Am I reading this right - you have been using Great Stuff for bonding seats and grips to rod blanks? I am really interrested in dumping the epoxy exposure myself. Have been looking at Sumo Glue, but have not tried it yet. Any info would be great! Thanks, Marc
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I did the same thing, no heat and let is slower cure. I had to wait about 2 hours after applying the finish, but I actually was able to go back and do some marbling with it. My basement is pretty cool, so this time will vary. It marbled nice, just have to make sure it has started to set up enough so your colors don't all run back together like mine did 1st try. This is good stuff! Marc
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Thanks Steve ! I feel that I have gotten so much from this board that I try to give back as much as I can. Thanks to everyone. Marc
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Finally got to try my Diamondite with the cartridges and dispensing gun. It is slick! Fastest, easiest way to measure finish, and you can dispense fairly small amounts accurately. I did not have a lite to put close to my rod, so it took a little longer to cure than the stated 1 hr, but this is good stuff !!!! Releases bubbles great, super clear, pot life long enough to do 4+ rods if you wante
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Thanks Bill!! Have you had any luck with the Sumo Glue for grips? Marc
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No problem Mark - thanks for the heads up! Marc
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I have been doing a lot of marblizing and would like to wear a respirator for this work. Any suggestions on the best respirator for epoxies? Thanks, Marc
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Anyone who hasn't tried them - check em' out!! I have recently switched over 100%. The guides are everything Fuji is at less money - and they have the independant tests to prove it. The reel seats are good and snug, and don't let the reel foot move like some other's I have tried. Good stuff. Marc
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I just registered with Merrick Tackle with my tax ID. I was wondering, do you order over the phone out of their catalog, or can you order on the web site once you are registered? Thanks, Marc
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I rigged mine with an arm made of Loc-Line and a strong aligator clip. I clamp a disposable Flex Coat mixing stick in it and position it in the cup, and just throw it away when done. You do get a few bubbles with this method, but won't have a bench full of drill rod glued to it. I also can hold a wood kraft stick with this and use it to mix my Flex Coat 20 min epoxy for grips. Just an idea,
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I am in the market for a new power wrapper. Speed is an issue as I am now selling a lot of rods. I like the simplicity of the DL713, but wondering if the DL747's features really improve speed. Also, on the DL747 is there enough room to reach behind the rod without hitting the back board that has the rollers on it? Thanks, Marc
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Thinking of ordering some, but was wondering if being a quicker setting epoxy does it have a strong odor like liquid 5 min epoxy? Thanks, Marc
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While working on construction of my new rod shop, I started to wonder how construction adhesive would work for reel seats or grips? Anyone tried this? I know it's very strong and waterproof, needs no mixing - and no amines.
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I agree with Steve on this. I also added another support to my Pac Bay for longer rods.
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Thanks Chuck - any idea where I can get Sumo glue? Marc
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I love to use Rod Bond, but have some tendonitis in my elbow. When it flares, mixing several batches of Rod Bond by hand isn't fun. Has anyone found a way to mix this stuff other than by hand? **I have rigged an arm made of loc-line with a heavy aligator clip on my Pac Bay epoxy mixer. With it holding a craft stick it mixes Flex Coat 20 min liquid rod glue great!! Any ideas much apprecia
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I agree with Tom and Jim. Tail towards the grip flows with the rest of the rod better.
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I grew up in a machine shop, and have used a lot of TiN coated machining tools, as well as other PVD coatings. The coatings really help with high heat applications in machining, but we are talking temps often over 1000 deg. F. I don't really think they help much on guides, other than cosmetically. And, because like any coating, it can chip, I am not a big fan. I think a good smooth cerami
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I used to work with a plater called Hydro-Platers in Milwaukee, WI. They did electroless nickle, and a variety of other platings. They were able to polish some of our product to Ra 8 or better - which is like glass - after plating. I don't have their number at my finger tips, but they are listed. Worked with a very nice guy there named Hoy. Good luck, Marc
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Just wondering if anyone has experience with TN style grips made of burl cork, and the slip rings used to hold reels in place. My concern is if the slip rings digging in would cause the burl cork to chunk out or de-laminate. I am asking about standard burl cork, as I know Anyd's exotic corks will hold up great. Thanks, Marc
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Hey Ron, No "horning in" here - the more we communicate, the more we all learn. I'll post my results later next week. Thanks, Marc
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Thanks Jim very much for all your help. I am moving this week, and won't be up and wrapping at my new home until later next week. I'll post how it goes. I agree - it's nice to have an amine-free product! Marc
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