Finally got to try my Diamondite with the cartridges and dispensing gun. It is slick!
Fastest, easiest way to measure finish, and you can dispense fairly small amounts accurately. I did not have a lite to put close to my rod, so it took a little longer to cure than the stated 1 hr, but this is good stuff !!!! Releases bubbles great, super clear, pot life long enough to do 4+ rods if you wanted to.

I would say at least buy a small kit and try it.

Marc

Marc
I've noticed a few times that when you try a new product you like to post your results whether good or bad.

That is appreciated! Its good for those that have never tried a particular product and for the beginners looking for info.
Thsanks for sharing!

Thanks Steve !

I feel that I have gotten so much from this board that I try to give back as much as I can. Thanks to everyone.

Marc

I use the typical "mix it yourself" bottles, not the dispensing system. Even with the regular product you can mix small amounts since the ratio isn't as critical as a two part epoxy. Also, everyone needs to know that heat in excess of 120 (give or take) will cause the finish to boil and create a plethora of micro bubbles that would be highly undesirable. Just a small amount of heat (incandescent bulb at 12") will do the trick.

Here once again are my "helpful hints" for success with Diamondite:

1. Understand that it is NOT an epoxy, it is an adhesive.

2. Don't overmix it, 30-45 secs is plenty.

3. Don't pour it out in a thin layer like epoxy ... just the opposite, keep it in a deep container while using it. It is unique, rather like glue and paint - when in significant capacity ... it doesn't dry or at least not quickly at all. But spread it thin, and poof ... it quickly dries and sets. I use the small souffle cups like the FC product for mixing and applying Diamondite. The working time is about an hour, even at my shop temp of 80 degrees.

4. You CAN apply additional coats long after the others - again, those adhesive properties kick in.

5. It cleans up with Acetone, not Denatured Alcohol.

6. Always remember, 1 part activator and 2 parts base component. BTW, it isn't real picky about the ratio ... obviously, mix it in proper ratio - but it won't fry your potatoes like epoxies do when the numbers aren't right.

7. It is recommended that you use Diamondite CP when utilizing their finish.

AND of course my favorite part ... It does NOT contain any amines, no sensitivity issues.

What would be your recommended rotation time and how long would the cure time be
without the finish being activated by heat source?

Just as a reminder note -- For those of you that would like to obtain the Diamondite Finish, we are a distributor for the product. We just continue to keep receiving more and more positive responses about the product. I need to get more ordered!! Just let us know if we can be of any assistance with the Diamondite.

Bob McKamey -- Custom Tackle Supply

Larry -

The product is cured by heat, so ... the lower the heat, the slower the cure. My shop averages 80 degrees for 9 months per year, 72-75 degrees during the cooler months of winter - LOL.

If you don't apply ANY heat other than room temperature in my shop it gels in a few hours, it does remain slightly tacky for a more extended period though. I do know that the curing time in lower temperatures isn't any longer than any other rod finish, I also know that application of light heat and it cures within an hour or two.

My personal method is to allow a natural gel without introducing heat, that way I can't possibly boil the finish. After it sits overnight, I apply heat for an hour and ship.

Jim -



Larry Wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What would be your recommended rotation time and
> how long would the cure time be
> without the finish being activated by heat source?

Thanks guys, that's the kind of info that makes this board great! Honest opinions and a willingness to share them.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

This stuff sounds great, and well worth considering.

Can someone post a few pics in the photo section of a few finished wraps with this product ?

Or send me an image or two <> rmeiser@charter.net

Bob Meiser



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2007 01:12PM by Bob Meiser.

Bob I just tried to send an email that would not go to the address on the board through my email server. I did link to your website and send some pictures attached. Here is on real example of clarity. I am pouring butt caps with pewter pins. I is very hard and does not scratch as easily as other two part finishes. Your email address is Hidden on this board. You can provide a connection by using the Control Panel at the top of his page and confirming your email address and give others permission to contact you via email through the board.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I did the same thing, no heat and let is slower cure. I had to wait about 2 hours after applying the finish, but I actually was able to go back and do some marbling with it. My basement is pretty cool, so this time will vary. It marbled nice, just have to make sure it has started to set up enough so your colors don't all run back together like mine did 1st try.

This is good stuff!

Marc

I do the same as Bill, regarding the butt caps. I am using the George Harris pewter pins, snipping off the pin, grinding them much thinner and then inlaying them with Diamondite - harder than steel and beautifully clear. The two products add a nice finishing touch with little expense or work.

Bill,

Got your images <> Thanks <> Beauty work by the way !!!

My shop now uses Andy's TM, and we love it.

My guys do the guide wrapping and epoxy work over them.

... But for me personally

I do all of the grip assemblies: Cork ring bonding and milling, butt thread work detailing, hand signatures, and feather inlays.

Our reel seats and cork rings are all bonded with waterproof polyurethane adhesives, and we have been doing so for 5 years now with never a problem ... Great Stuff (not to coin a phrase)

I have a very hard time with epoxies health wise, so a finish alternative in this area would be a major help for me.

... So if Diamondite works (as I suspect it will) I could totally eliminate my epoxy exposure in all regards.

The ultra hardness of the Diamondite would be an asset in this section of the rod, and not problematic for guide removal and / or repairs.

Just put an order in to Anglers today ... So the learning curve will begin very soon ... };^)...!!!!

Thanx for the input...Bob Meiser



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2007 06:09PM by Bob Meiser.

Hey Bob,

Am I reading this right - you have been using Great Stuff for bonding seats and grips to rod blanks? I am really interrested in dumping the epoxy exposure myself.
Have been looking at Sumo Glue, but have not tried it yet. Any info would be great!

Thanks,
Marc

I understand from your previous posts that you have a similar sensitization to amine sysstems that I do. Ralph O'Quinn was kind enough to set up a program for me to allow construction and finishing without amine systems. I know that you will find exteeme satisfaction to being able to apply a nice finish to a rod with a product that will not light you up! Here is a link to all the amine free systems that I use to maintain my sanity (or partial anyway)

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The only thing about Swifty that really needs improvement is the written instruction that come with the product. Call Tim befoe you use it for the first time - it will be worth your time!

Bill

Thank you very much Bill. I am getting used to the Diamondite, but am going to break down and get some Sumo glue and give it a go too.

I really appreciate your help, as I love rod building and want to be able to enjoy it as much as possible. I hope I can return the favor. The one area I am an expert in is "long line releasing" of the biggest fish of the day - so if you need any tips let me know!

Thanks again,
Marc

Bill Stevens Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The only thing about Swifty that really needs
> improvement is the written instruction that come
> with the product. Call Tim befoe you use it for
> the first time - it will be worth your time!
>
> Bill
>
>

Hey Bill,

I am getting ready to make some changes to the packaging. I am open to suggestions on how to improve the written instructions. I am including some of the information that Jim Gamble has written regarding the product. Remember, I have to print it in a large enough font so "seasoned" eyes can read it and still fit the paper inside the 3 oz. kit package.

Am I brave or foolish?

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing
(626) 963-1142

TIM;
I've been so busy with other things I'm just now getting to the test stage with Diamondite. I just reread the instruction sheet a couple hours ago. One thing I might suggest is that you include the drying time between application of CP and the Diamondite finish. Is it four hours? Twenty-four? All the instructions say is that "it's a rapidly drying formula." How rapid is rapid?

By the way, Tim, the instruction sheet included the suggestion: "2. It is recommended that you fully load the rod prior to applying the rod finish to relieve any stress that may be on the guide feet." Now that sounds like a great tip for any finish. Thanks for including it. I probably have been fully loading the rod during static deflection testing, but I'll watch it more carefully from now on.

Really looking forward to using your product.

All of you, thanks so much for all your help and ideas. Certainly saved me a lot of grief more than once. (Except I spent the last 1/2 hour looking for my 5/32" drill bit.)

Bill, just took a look at your butt cap photo. Very impressive!

RON.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/23/2007 01:01AM by RON NIX.

RON NIX Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> TIM;
> I've been so busy with other things I'm just now
> getting to the test stage with Diamondite. I just
> reread the instruction sheet a couple hours ago.
> One thing I might suggest is that you include the
> drying time between application of CP and the
> Diamondite finish. Is it four hours?
> Twenty-four? All the instructions say is that
> "it's a rapidly drying formula." How rapid is
> rapid?
>



Ron,

The drying time for the CP is 15-20 minutes. All of the tests I have run have been done using the following time line unless I was testing the ability of the product to be applied over extended period of time.

1. Apply CP over thread starting with butt wrap and working toward tip. Once finished, clean brush and put away bottle.
2. Mix Diamondite Rod Finish per instructions.
3. Allow Diamondite Rod Finish to "breathe" in cup for 5-10 minutes to allow both components to become one. (like a good glass of wine)
4. Apply Diamondite Rod Finish on rod beginning at the butt wrap and working toward the tip leaving the finish in the disposable cup. When finished, throw disposable cup and brush in trash. (I use cheap nut cups from Smart & Final and cheap bulk brushes from the 99 Cent Store)
5. Apply heat using my Heat Gun at low velocity and high heat. Each guide receives 30 seconds of heat.
6. Check for sags and remove excess.
7. Turn on light box (3 cheap clamp on lights w/ 100 watt bulbs clamped to based spaced equally across rod.
8. Return in 45 minutes for second coat following steps 2 thru 6.
9. Rod is ready to be fished, fully cured in within 90 minutes of applying final coat.

Total time from applying CP to fully cured, 21/2 to 3 hours depending on the number of guides, type of rod and ambient temperature.

Tim Campbell
Swifty Manufacturing
(626) 963-1142

Thanks Tim; That was quick! I'll post pictures... Trying both Gudebrod and Pac Bay thread...
Also, step 3 above might be worth including in your revised instruction sheet...
RON.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/23/2007 01:38AM by RON NIX.