Attempting to repair a South Bend bamboo fly rod, all the ferrules need replacing but I am having a difficult time locating resonably priced step down ferrules ($2-$5 range) for this mass produced rod. Any help in locating a source would be appreciated
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Use it all the time, extra fine from Jannsnetcraft, don't need much, add to the 2 part before mixing and mix the normal way, depending on on thick you lay the epoxy on, you may need a second light coat to make the finish smooth feeling.
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We have a fishing web site here in CT where I solict old rods, fix them up, then donate them to our state program that teaches residents all about fishing (mostly youngsters). Site members have been very generous.
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As a frame of reference, I'm 5 9 1/2, wear a 33" long sleeve shirt and build my personal 7' spinning rods with the center of the reel seat 10 1/2 inches from the butt end of the rod regardless split grip or not.
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Where REC re-coils avalable in 1964?
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I use two pair of needle nose tweezers to lift the edges, peel away the top film and place the decal on the rod, fingers never touch the decal.
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Fishing partner and I "designed" a spinning rod for smallies just for the applications mentioned above and we start with a St. Croix 5S66MLF blank . Works great with 1/8 oz jig heads with grubs, small Ikas, spider grubs and swimming weightless, nose hooked Super Fluke Jrs. It's our go to set up for our group's annual week long, spring, Maine, smallmouth trips.
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A few years ago I built for myself, two baitcasters from St. Croix 5S70MF and 5S70MLF blanks using the 12-10-8-6(6 of them) in a spiral wrapped configuration and couldn't be more pleased with the results, just my two cent comment.
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I have found latex tubing small enough to hold the guides, most RC hobby shops will have some.
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Don't know if this is a good compaison, but a fishing friend and I have "developed" a rod we use for smallmouth fishing primarily using weightless, nose hooked Super Fluke Jrs twitched around smallie habitat. This same set up works well with small plastics such as 4" worms. They are built on either St. Croix AVID or Extreme S66MLF blanks and the the guide lineup is as you have
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Could you epoxy a small ceramic guide on as a hook?
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This is from Bingham Enterprises web site. GUDEBROD CLASSIC TWIST THREAD 100YD. SPOOLS SIZE A 001/002 BLACK-WHITE 001/326 BLACK/SCARLET 001/5896 BLACK/GREEN 001/200 BLACK/GREEN $2.95 p
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Must be something about rod builders, I'm also helping a fishing buddy and his son with their Pinewood Derby car, buddy lives in a condo, has no tools, guess who does? Rod Bond came in real handy for attaching weights to the back of the car.
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I hollow out the end of the composite butt cap that will abut the cork with a Dremel tool and use the end of the rod as a tenon. Most of the glue will then be on the rod butt and hollow of the butt cork and not the mating surfaces of the composite cap or cork, thus no oozing of the glue.
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I've been using a product called Royal Blue, a carnaubu wax that buffs out so clear you can use it on glass.
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You should also be able to create a spreadsheet with a combination of mm, inches, 64ths measurements to cover all sizes and as long as you have an instrument to measure the tip diameter your good. Some vendors even offer a small chart that can be taped to a convenient area around you work bench.
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My vote is for Tru-Oil for cork. I have six year old rods where the handles look as good as new. I've recently done regular thread epoxy with glitter over Tru-Oiled cork ,now in a field testing mode to see how they hold up.
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I've done gift certificates as raffle prizes for charitable events, $XX off toward the purchase of a custom rod. Around a 25% use rate so I haven't been bombarded with building a lot of rods with big discounts, does get you some advertising and recognition.
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Learned that lesson when I was 12 years old, sliced the finger down to the bone, no stitches, took a month to heal, but what did I know, just a kid then. Now I even hand sand items away from my body.
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You want sparkle on NCP? Add glitter.
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Hose clamp around the chuck jaws, can't wait to get the new Batson replacement.
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Tru-oil for me, after six years on my personal rods, a light sanding and a couple of more coats and they are good as new. Contrary to how they look, they are NOT slippery when wet, just the opposite, water beads up and wipes off easily, no soaking wet cork. I've got one rod out for "field testing" where the cork was done with thread epoxy. Customer can't complain, my son-in-law and t
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I add on $4-$8 as a miscellaneous charge, thread, epoxy, etc. depending upon the # of guides and epoxy thread coats.
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Yes, it's part of the total cost of the rod over and above component and labor charges.
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Ain't that the truth, just finished a 9 foot, one piece surf rod on an 8 foot wrapping bed. The last few guides were a challenge.
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I PG the rod after the guides have been wrapped. Load the tip of the foam brush, touch to the blank and run up between the guides while spinning the power wrapper. Let dry for a day, move the wrapper guides to PG'd areas and finish the ares not PG'd the first time.
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This year I used regular thread wrap epoxy with glitter mixed in over several coats of Tru-Oil on my own personal rod and one for my son-in-law. It finished up better than I expected but I cannot at this time comment on the durablilty as I broke my rod after about ten outings. Some how I snapped the tip end while loading in my rod locker. It will now become and extra fast 6'2" ML rod whic
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I use a "true" burnishing tool that was made to burnish dry transfer lettering, also some small crochet needles which I filed and polished to a fine smooth point, good for micro guides.
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I've done the same as James many times, I request the client's permission first, some guys just like plain Jane. Built two rods this winter as an experiment where I have glittered epoxy applied to cork handles with five coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, really looks cool. One is a personal rod and the other a birthday present for my son-in-law, so how can he complain. It will be interesting to
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I involve my customers as much as possible in the design, component selection and cosmetics of the rod so that when they pick it up, they feel that they were intimately involved in the rod building process and there is a positive anxiety for both of us. Mine for the anticipation of the demonstration of the customer's satisfaction and I'm sure on their part, that the rod has turned out as expecte
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