Home Depot carries cork plugs in various sizes. Just glue it in the butt, let it dry, cut the excess and lightly sand. It helps if you pull your rear grip 1/8" beyond the butt of the rod so you can't see the blank between the plug and the bottom of the grip. OR you could buy a butt plug and it will cover the blank also.
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After taking the guides off take a fine scotchbrite pad to the entire area between the remaining guides especially at the location of the guides you took off to remove any residual epoxy until the area is smooth then apply a light coat of permagloss in this area and rewrap with the 3 guides.
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I just did a search for "foam" last 30 days 9 pages 266 posts plus the RM article. But I do apologize for offending those "still trying to figure it out". OOOOOH look a new spiral wrap question, remember those days
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Sometimes there is ideas and other times it's like beating a dead horse.
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2C80MXF The 3oz has got to be a typo.
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That foam grips were never invented. This forum is beginning to turn into Foambuilding.org
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Are you using heat for bubbles? I've fond if I don't use heat or VERY little my finish comes out much smoother.
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Ed that one is the cheaper plastic one but still a good deal.
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Russ, I'll send you the e-mail tommorow because it is on my work e-mail but you might save yourself 40 mile drive by just spending the extra $5 and ordering it online in the link Tim posted and getting it shipped. Here is the link
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From the glossary above Popping Rod Rod used for casting shrimp under a "popping cork." Generally these rods have fast, light tips to prevent tearing the bait off the hook during the cast. Can be used for many other types of fishing as well.
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Tim I forwarded the e-mail I got from Harbor Freight to you that lists the price at $9.99 EDIT: looks like it's only good for in-store purchases thru 1/19/08, good deal if you have a store near you.
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I realize that Harbor Freight tools typically suck but I have these and they work great. They are on sale now for $10!! That's $28 off regular price!!!
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i just built a rod for a friends's kid that should be born in the next week, I used one of Mudhole's camo blanks. They are perfect for little kids.
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If you are using underwraps you will run into problems. The thread for the underwrap should be smaller than your overwrap.
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What is a surfactant? I've been using the waterslides without using this without problems. I just went on the Decal Connection website and reviewed the instructions for application and there is no mention of this?
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Thanks for everyone's help on thos one, hopefully I'll be posting some pics soon.
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Anthony, thanks for the response, the one you posted is actually what made me want to do this, that is the nicest rose wrap I have seen, and the my girl will love it. Would the spacing and 6 passes for the bouquet you used also work for the single rose design or should I make more passes?
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I don't have the Visual Wrap software, but it's on my Christma List. I'm building my girlfriend a flats rod and wanted to do a 4-axis rose wrap and I was hoping someone could help me with spacing. The diameter of the blank at the grip is 12.75mm and I'm guessing it will end around 11mm. I'd like the roses to be fairly large. I have Vivona;'s book but I want to make sure the design is not going to
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Good, because it wouldn't work if you didn't use CP but I'd first reread the article, then lay the gold and scarlet under, then CP, then epoxy with just the scarlet on top with CP. If you don't use CP your scarlet will turn transparent and the tiger effect will be lost.
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Don't worry about the LS cracking. I'd be more worried about getting an even coat with the permagloss.
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Did you use CP on the guide wraps?
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I would think that if you didn't have something close you could buy one from Wal-Mart, put some old line on it, do your tests, take the line off and then return it.
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You are going to have to ream the rings out past the OD of the blank to get them to fit over the butt of the rod. It won't be a good fit and won't match up well with the existing rings. It would look better to install a whole new rear grip plus would reinforce the rod at the reel seat.
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The rod doesn't see much flex in this area, just under sleeve it and be done with it. I forgot to mention that the rod I did like this was a grouper rod, sounds similar to the same type of rod you are doing
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Definantly inner sleeve. I'd cut the current rod directly behind the reel seat and inner sleeve it under the reel seat. Mount a new rear grip on your fiberglass scrap so the TOP of the grip reaches meets the point on the scrap rod where its OD matches the existing rod's ID and leave about 4" of the scrap blank above the grip. A little scotch brite pad to the inside of the existing rod and ou
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I don't know anything about salmon fishing but I ran across these the other day on the Lamiglass site. You could extend the 9' an additional foot or trim the 10.5'
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YEAHHH!!! BOOBIES!!!!
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Momma always said "If it sounds to good to be true it probably is"
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I'm not Tom but I don't see a reason you couldn't. If you are concerned about the strength of the foam just shim the blank under the grip and mount the gimabal, they are two seperate pieces that do not rely on one another for strength.
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The seeker live bait rods are actually a composite blank and I have yet to seen the new Super Seekers . I just looked it up and I didn't realize that they are making the same blanks in the Super Seekers. Based on what I've heard go with the Super Seeker, they are only $20 more, I think that is the next kingfish rod I'm going to build is going to be the Super Seeker after learning this. David,
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