I thought I was all ready to begin guide placement on my first spiral wrap. However, I have seen a number of posts which make me question my choices. On a 6' medium power, fast action blank, I had planned on using a #12 guide, a #10 guide as the bumper, and a #10 as the first 180 degree guide. From there it would be #8, #6, #6, #6, and a #6 tip. These were my selections based on reading Bill
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Not that I'm a cynic, but, among the folks that pay the bills for the various fishing shows, there are quite a few rod manufacturers who would just as soon have those such as your friend remain ignorant of the art of rod building. They would much rather sell them a rod. I doubt that Pure Fishing is interested in creating more competition for itself. When they say, "It's not about the mone
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Thank you very much! Hunter
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I wanted to put down a light layer of finish on a matte blank in order to afix a decal. For that, I used LS Supreme. However, when I put on the finish on the guide wraps, I plan to use Threadmaster for a one coat finish. Is there any problem with putting the Threadmaster over the decal (and LS Supreme), also? Do I need to use the LS Supreme for that section? I would have used the new Thread
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Additionally, if you email Karry Batson at Batson Enterprises with the specific blank you are using, you can request, and receive, a template with all the components for your particular blank, the item numbers, sizes, and the guide spacing. Everything you need to build the rod is there in black and white. You only need to pick the color of thread you need. They are great folks, there. Tight l
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I picked up some faux sable brushes at my local Ben Franklin's Arts and Craft shop. One is a flat 1/8" brush which is almost stiff enough to qualify as a pallet knife/spatula. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to meet most rodbuilding needs. They're a tad pricier than the Flex Coat versions, but much nicer. Much nicer. I use Flex Coat Epoxy Brush Cleaner. Tight lines, Hunte
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You can also go by any art supplier (or a Michael's or a Ben Franklin's) and get a pallet knife. That's what I did. It seemed both ideal and reasonably inexpensive. Tight lines, Hunter
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I think Scott has a 3 pc. 3 weight that is 7'10". At least they produced a rod like that a few years ago that Harry Murray proclaimed the ideal for Shennendoah National Park brookies. Tight lines, Hunter
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A builder of bamboo fly rods once told me Brillo or S.O.S pads were the ticket for cleaning cork grips. They've worked well for me. If the wife has 'em, use 'em. Tight lines, Hunter
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Matt, One concern is your choice of line weight. My favorite fly, and the one I think most productive, for panfish is a small cork popper. I don't know if a three weight line would turn that over, especially on a windy day. When I think three weight, I think about dry flies and small nymphs. Spring creek and free stone stream sorts of things. Of course, that may have as much to do my skill
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Okay, just to wrap up this thread, while I didn't mention it earlier, this was just a repair job. I replaced a single guide. After getting the above feedback, I pulled out an old radiator-type space heater and suspended the guide in question about 18" above it. After a couple of hours, the repair is fine and the finish is just fine. Thanks for all the help. Tight lines, Hunter
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Well, the measurements were pretty exact. I am not terribly concerned there. Mixing was thorough, and the epoxy performed exactly as expected. This old house is fairly chilly at the moment, so that is probably the problem. I guess I'm going to have to move the rod somewhere warmer for a while and give it some more time. Thanks for all the replies. Tight lines, Hunter
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I used Threadmaster finish for the first time yesterday. First, my working area is quite chilly, and I do not have a heated drying box. I warmed the resin slightly before mixing, but after 12 hours the finish is still tacky to the touch. Less tacky than after 8 hours, but still tacky. Given the temperature (a little above 60 degrees), will it set up in time, or am I going to have to redo this
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Thanks, everyone. I'd read Tom Kirkman's article on the various spiral wraps and didn't want to get terribly complicated. In as much as I've used the above mentioned rod, and like it, I had wondered about the logic of off-setting that third guide. As I wrote, it is only a very few degrees, and from a distance is hardly noticeable. That said, I'll stick with Mr. Colby's model. Tight lines, H
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Very shortly, I will be building my first baitcasting rod using a spiral wrap. I think I've done my research. I have a copy of Rod Maker Vol 8 Issue 2 (as well as others), and William "Bill" Colby's article seems straight forward, if not down right simple. I've read of other similar ideas, but his seems the most practical to me. Nonetheless, I also own a Bud Earhardt "Fishin' S
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Ralph, How will we know whether we are buying the new or the old stock? Will it be labeled differently? When can we expect it on suppliers' shelves? This is pretty nifty news! Thank you. Tight lines, Hunter
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Well, a conventional guide placement seems likely for the fly rod until I see compelling evidence as to why I should add more. Thank you very much for the feedback. Now, can anyone address the comparisons of RX6 and RX7 to SCII, SCIII, GL2, and GL3? I have inferred a great deal from posts of the past, but would like to hear something a tad more concrete. Steve, I agree wholeheartedly with you
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Emory, As I said, I am trying to learn more about this notion of increased guides. The subject was broached on DR's site by someone who is being taught by an elderly rod builder from Wales. The person being taught has been casting rods built by this gentleman, and they out perform rods with fewer guides, especially in wind. Naturally, there are questions concerning other differences which mig
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This year, it appears that my projects will be on RainShadow blanks. Besides glowing reports I have read, it turns out that fishsticks4u is just down the road from me. I am looking to build a buzz bait baitcasting rod with a spiral wrap. 6'6" will be the length, and I'll be throwing buzz baits typically in the 1/4 oz to 3/8 oz range, but would want the capability of throwing the occasiona
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Thanks everyone. I was leaning towards the Batson blank after my initial research, but now I think that is the way I will go. It also helps that FishSticks4U is only about a fifteen minute drive from my house (who knew?). Again, thank you for your help. This board continues to be an amazing resource for those of us who only build one rod a year. Tight lines, Hunter
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I am presently planning my next project. I plan to build a medium casting rod for smallmouth bass. I am looking at blanks just over 6' in length, and I plan to use a blank exposed reel seat and a spiral wrap. At the moment, the two blanks that I think will suit my purposes are a St Croix 4C63MF and a Batson RX8+C742. Among other things, I have only built spinning rods in the past. The expose
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The CP is definitely a good idea if you are using PermaGloss to cover the decals. PermaGloss will bleed the color on peel'n'stick decals. I don't know if this adds much to the discussion, but if someone was considering PG as opposed to Threadmaster, well, be warned. Tight lines, Hunter
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Thank you, Tom. This is good news! Tight lines, Hunter
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I am looking for this back issue of RodMaker Magazine. Does anyone have a notion where I might find it. It is not listed as available on the magazine's website. In fact, no issues older than Vol5 are listed. Any help would be appreciated. I am specifically looking for Rich Forhan's article on the Revolver Rod. Thanks in advance. Tight lines, Hunter
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I'm in the planning stages of my next project, which will be a casting rod for smallmouths with a spiral wrap. In searching the resources available in back issues of RodMaker Magazine, I found an article on "spiral wraps" and an article on "revolver wraps". Are the two wraps similar? If they are, what are their relative strengths and weaknesses? Should I just order both ba
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Aside from filling in holes and making similar repairs, I have found the best way to bring old cork back to looking new is with either an SOS or Brillo pad. It works wonders! Tight lines, Hunter
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I have just finished my third rod, The whole process has been gratifying in so many ways, and there has been much I have learned. I expect to learn more in the future, however, here are some important lessons I have painfully absorbed. 10. If you plan to use metal winding checks, put them on the blank before you wrap the guides. 9. The instructions in the site's Library concerning the plac
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In the interests of full disclosure: I am just a newbie to rodbuilding. However, I just used a Graphite-USA C65MHXFWDHX blank (6'6" Medium Heavy Extra Fast Action) to build a spinning rod for similar purposes. Since their move, Hastings has lowered the price, it is available in several colors, and Mudhole (a board sponsor) provided excellent service. It is well worth a look. Tight lines
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If you want to save a little money, the products sold as "Reel Magic" and such are simply silicon sprays which are available at any hardware store for a fraction of the price. Additionally, when trailing the line behind your boat to remove twist, it is absolutely essential that you have NO weight on the end of the line. I wasn't sure if anyone made this clear. Finally, you can remove
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Thank you to all. I'll let you know how it proceeds. Tight lines, Hunter
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