I am getting ready to put a final coat of Threadmaster on the lable area of a rod. I am using using waterslides, so as per the instructions, I put a base coat of finish down and let cure for 24hrs. I then applied the decals and a coat of CP and again let that dry for 24hrs. My question is, is my second coat of threadmaster going to adhere well to the first even after 48hrs.? I know I can lightly sand the area, but there is not much to sand that isn't already covered by the decals. Maybe .75in. on either end and just a thin strip running lateraly between the decals. Am I gonna be OK in this situation? Should I go ahead and sand what I can? Thanks again guys.

TJ

Shouldn't have any problems. Why the CP?? Have never tried that. I put a coat of Threadmaster down and next morning put the decal on, wait about 8 hours and put the final coat of TM on. I have done the final coat 2 or 3 hoursafter decal without problem (so far) but prefer at LEAST 8 hours.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

OK get er done! I would not worry about sanding - scratches under or on decal surface- but do not wait another day. You may want to apply the finish after six or eight hours of drying. If you are using Set and or Sol be sure to blot the excess drops off the bottom of the rod while sitting to aid in speeding up drying. Maybe put a light bulb nearby for additonal heat.

Yeah, I was sure worried that I waited too long. I put the CP down (due to an earlier sugestion) because I didn't have the microset and micosol solutions. I used it last time and in place of the solutions and it worked great so I didn't see any reason to change methods. I guess we'll see this time. Thanks for the help again guys.

TJ

I never use the CP either.

I just put on one coat of finish, wait overnight and apply the decal the next AM and finish over it that same day.

DR

The purpose of Micro Set is to allow the decal to be positioned easier and Sol is to soften the decal and make it conform to the blank better. Both help and I use them but neither are required. CP does neither so I don't understand the purpose, I guess. Whatever works, stick with it

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Do you guys find that you get good results without the solutions? The only reason I use the CP was based on a sugestion a few weeks ago that said you could use CP instead of the microsol and microset and get good results. Maybe I misunderstood or was misinformed? I figured it made sense though, that the CP would help keep the decals down without the use of the solutions. But, if I can get away without either, then all the better. Does anyone else have any experience with NOT using the solutions? What were your results? Thanks again for the responses.

TJ

Tim,
Not sure what you mean by "keep down". Waterslides shouldn't be lifting. I use Decal Connection and for a long time I didn't use anything. When I finally got some of the Set, I liked the fact that I had a little more time to move/position the decal without wrecking it. Later I tried the Sol and I feel that it helped to make the decal "melt" (not actually melt, but soften) onto the blank making it virtually invisible.
I got good results without, but feel that it's easier (for me) and I feel more comfortable using them. For the minimal cost (a small bottle lasts for a LOT of decals, I feel that it's worth it.


Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Sometimes things get confused on the board when someone uses the word "decal". That could be a peel and stick or a waterslide. Sometimes it is best to use CP on peel and stick so that edges will not curl when using a finish. The solutions for a waterslide are somewhat different. Micro Set is to insure that the decal position can be finely adjusted without sticking in place and the Sol is to aid in final shrinking and smooth top quality appearance. I use peel and stick and waterslides on all rods and would hate to try to place and finish over either without the proper solutions.

I don't use any "set or sol" or whatever.

I just apply the decal to the fresh finish with a layer of soapy water on the decal and on the epoxy. Move the decal around as needed and just let dry. Apply the last coat of finish over it the same day and I'm done.

I do the same as Duane....just finished an 11'6" BreakAway surf rod with waterslides...no solutions required....apply base coat over matte blank finish, let cure overnight, apply decal, wait a few hours to dry, second coat and done. On gloss finished blanks, just apply decal, let dry and then apply ThreadMaster.

The solutions are definately not required, but may make life a little easier.


Andy Dear
Lamar Fishing

Well, I guess I was all confused. Either way, the CP doesn't seem to affect it negatively. I also have the factory peel and stick, so I guess the CP is partially waranted. I was afraid that without the solutions the edges of the waterslide would raise as well. I'm glad to hear that shouldn't be the case. Anyway, I have applied the finish and with the exception of the rod falling out of the dryier for and hour after I left the house, all is good, LOL. The finish was still soft enough that I was able to heat the finish with a heat gun and should have to do minimal sanding if any at all. Live and learn I guess. Thanks for all the input guys. I really appreciate it.

TJ

The only thing a coat of CP will do for you here is keep the finish from being repelled by the slick surface of the decal. This is more of a problem with stick on decals than water slides, but the coat of CP won't hurt a thing.

.................

TJ,

I never use CP to hold down peel and sticks either, I just place them on, burnish them down really well, remove the upper layer of paper the decal was on and I usually coat them with finish almost right away.

The CP may be useful to hold down the edges of SOME decals, but I haven't found one yet that needed it.

DR

Like Tom said, peel & stick stickers tend to be contaminated during application around the decal area and a coat of CP definitely helps. The CP will also prevent the sticker edges from lifting owing to heat application when you try to remove bubbles from the first coat. My experience tells me that this is the most critical problem of using peel & stick decals.

Anthony Lee

I can understand the peel & stick decals being slick and maybe repelling the finish (I've never experienced that myself), but contamination is something that certainly can be avoided w/o much problem. Contamination should be no worse for a fish decal than it is for your thread work. Clean the area and burnish on the decal...it is covered by a protective layer of paper that should guard against any contaminates. After peeling the paper off I carefully burnish the edges and points. Epoxy can be applied immediately.

I've also never had to heat out any bubbles over a decal. After allowing ALL the excess to drip off and self-level there should be no bubbles left to worry about.

EDIT: If the edges of your decal are lifting when you apply heat for bubble expulsion, I can only guess that you're applying WAY too much heat. Just my guess.

Best of luck.

Jay



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2006 10:44AM by Jay Lancaster.

The CP is definitely a good idea if you are using PermaGloss to cover the decals. PermaGloss will bleed the color on peel'n'stick decals. I don't know if this adds much to the discussion, but if someone was considering PG as opposed to Threadmaster, well, be warned.
Tight lines,
Hunter