Just another view showing the modified reel seat.
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Decided to play around with the new Fuji reel seat since after getting them and finding them not very comfortable in my hands. I took out the middle hump area, creating a bigger exposed area for the blank. It is not finished yet, needs some more sanding to get it smoother, but it feels much better in my hand.
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Just was trying something different for a chevron wrap. I put a designed space between each band of colors and you get a basket type weave to the pattern.
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Here is my first attempt at a fade wrap. Used Madeira thread in the purple range.
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Here is a close up of the butt cap on the carbon fiber casting handle using corian
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A close up of the foregrip on the carbon fiber casting handle.
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Here is the carbon fiber casting handle with using corian as the end caps of the handle.
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Another view of my first fly rod
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Here is my first flyrod made using a St Croix SCIV 907.4 blank and Fuji Alconite guides. Feather inlay at handle and at each ferrule. Thread color is blue dunn without CP and aquamarine metalic.
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I do option 2 that Bill Stevens mentions. I use the bands used to make skirts for like spinnerbaits to hold the guides in place testing, then mark the locations on the blank. I grind down just the tip of the guide foot so the thread easily catches the guide as it is wrapped around the blank. With the proper guide foot prep, I hardly have to wiggle the guide to get it under the thread.
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For what I have found using all micros and working with Bill Stevens, the first guide from the reel works best being farther away form the reel than what you normally would do. On the crankbait rods I work on, that guide ends up being somewhere around 28" from the reel. With the guide being closer, what I have seen, the line flow off the reel, you can see that it has more of a wave to it,
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I have gotten this before from Janns for that color.
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Another one from St Croix I would suggest is the 4C68MXF.
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I have done it both ways, but I had much better results with a layer of epoxy first. Either way I really didn't see the decal edges after applying finish, but the decal sticks better to the smooth finish of the epoxy.
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I have seen something similar with people trying to cast one of my rods with all micro guides. When I first started using them, I did have to learn a new release point because the rod was coming through to casting position quicker causing the lure to go left. It may be similar with your rod, it may be enough different from other rods you have used and just need to learn the proper release point
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With Decal Connection, they will make the decal however you want it and get it to you very quickly. Doing something different for each rod for specs and such is not a problem. I use to use the P Touch label maker, but with it being overall thicker, it was harder to get the decal to stay on smaller blanks for me. The newer type peel and stick decals from DC work really well.
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Some things to consider, what is the spool size of the reel and what line itself are you going to be using. Depending on if you have to deal with any knots in the line, I would think you could go to even smaller running guides to save more weight, you should have no issues going down to 3's or 4's. If you are using a smaller diameter spool, you could go down to as small as a 12 for the first gu
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Just how are you putting the 2 pieces together? You should not just push the parts together you need to do it with a slight twist in the 2 pieces as you assemble them..
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One thing I found that works well is the rubber tubing used for making lure skirts for spinnerbaits or jigs.
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If you do a search for rod finish, I have posted links before on a gel polyurethane product I use for woodturning. It is more of a satin finish, but works great with a couple of light coats to cover the rod.
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I would say what you are seeing is the blank showing through the thread and you may not have packed and burnished the threads enough.
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I don't think ot os Pac Bay themselves, if you look, the roda are called Pac Bay Game Rods but is is someone else that is trying to sell them.
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Since you are redoing the guides, not a problem. If there is a foregrip, it would have to come off alone with the reelseat, which might have to be cut off and replaced with a new one.
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One thing to watch out for, is what type of arbor was used in the reelseat. I have had success when I know there were something like the old graphite arbors used. But if it has a tape or even cardboard tube type of a arbor, I don't think adding any epoxy inside would not do much help.
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I have been using the older American Tackle ones the most without any issues at all. Plan on trying the newer ones here soon myself to see how they work. Also have a set of Kigans and the Fuji K series to try on some rods as well.
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Another thing, with going to micro guides, the places where they will go will not always be where the old guides were at. I would suggest stripping the rod completely of guides and finish and redo the entire blank with a finish. Permagloss is nice if you want a glossy finish, but if you want more of a matte finish I would suggest using this: I have done my last few rods where I completely
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All it takes is making the rear grip in 2 pieces and shaping them the way you want. Not much to it really.
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Had a great time seeing everyone and meeting new people. As always the food was great and also learned a few new things to try sometime.
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What one fisherman might think is more sensitive for a rod, another might think differently. Generally the lighter wieght rod will feel more sensitive for most fishermen. If the rods are fairl equal in weight it could be a toss up. Are the rods bassically the same in specs or is one greatly different from the other? I have shown to others that using micro guides over more traditions guides on
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No, but it can help with preventing bubbles in the finish.
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