I use it on all of my cork handles. Just make sure to follow directions by putting on one good coat. Additional coats of the product do nothing for you.
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I tried, didn't find much
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He wants the rod to match the Fenwick one as close as I can get to it. It does have a moderate to slow action to it.
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I have a customer wanting to match a current rod he has. It is a Fenwick HMC GTC70ML. Specs are 7 foot, lure weight 3/8-3/4 and line size 8-17. I have found a couple of St Croix blanks that seem to fit in this category but was wondering if anyone might have some other suggestions. The St Croix blanks I found are 3C70MM and 2C70MM. If anyone has any other suggestion, it would be appreciated.
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If you do a search on here, I am sure you will find many posts that deal with this question. Has been asked many times before. If you are going to use it for both turning and wrapping, just make sure you have a good way of collecting up the dust when turning. Myself I like using my Jet lathe in the garage for turning handles and leave the mess there than in the room I wrap in.
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Skip, For the rods I build, I like using 4 guides for the transition. I trry to complet this transition with a spacing between the guides around 12-15 inches, will depend on the blank. I also try to have my 180 degree guide at the point where the blank straightens out when you put a 90 degree bend in the blank. This will vary too if I am using a blank with a fast or extra-fast tip. Also, n
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Sorry, was getting an error when posting, didn't realize it was going through.
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I do mine towards the handle of the reel. Mainly I do rods for bass fishing and this allows the rod to lie flatter on the deck of the boat.
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I do mine towards the handle of the reel. Mainly I do rods for bass fishing and this allows the rod to lie flatter on the deck of the boat.
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I do mine towards the handle of the reel. Mainly I do rods for bass fishing and this allows the rod to lie flatter on the deck of the boat.
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I do mine towards the handle of the reel. Mainly I do rods for bass fishing and this allows the rod to lie flatter on the deck of the boat.
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Daylight also has a very nice light that I use, which has the light and a sperate magnifying glass attachment with it. Got mine for around $80.00. The bulbs used for these lamps are the best you can get in my opinion for working on a rod.
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Personally I like to use double foot guides for the transition, but thats on rods used mostly for bass fishing and are going to be on the deck of the boat. Doubles tend to hold up better for me. No problem using the fly guides at all. Also, I like to use 4 double foot guides for the transition, then go to the single and fly guides after that. To figure where the transition guides would end, f
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Just make sure you use a locking wrap on them. Good article in the library here on the procedure. Ever since using this, I have not had a guide pop out at all.
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I have mine come off to the side of the blank. If top is 0 degrees and the guide side is 180 degrees, I will pull them around to lets say 120 degrees. Enough to have a solid hold of the tag end, but still mostly out of sight from the angler. The epoxy protects the threads. I am not sure what you mean by hold, but it will hold the thread in place, but it does not used for holding the guide in
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Jann's Netcraft has what they call a concealed handle kit that you might be able to use with this. The only thing I can see about the one in the picture, it looks to be mounted on the blank with the long end of the handle towards the tip. The new handles have the short portion for the foregrip. The new ones would also be with the blank through the handle. I think Jann's has both their own han
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I think I would try to stay with any of the guides to keep the weight down as much as possible. For being able to cast under docks with a skip cast, you want this rod to be as responsive as possible. The least amount of weight added to this kind of rod would be best.
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Rich, Thanks very much.
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I am in the process of building my first ice fishing rod. I have a fly rod tip section for the blank, cork for the handle, but not sure what kind of guides would be appropiate to use for ice fishing. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Mike
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I put the running guides on as if it was a spinning rod, and that ends up being the outside of the curve. For testing, I have the handle on already and mount the reel that I plan on using with the rod and run my line through the guides.
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The other type I have seen are on Cabela's rods. But through a friend, I have been able to obtain one of the kits that Fuji makes similar to what Bass Pro uses. He has friends in Japan and were able to get me one to try.
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I would use the Alconite guides, but I would deffinately go with a spiral wrap with them. Would take a few more guides because of the transition guides. For the butt guide, I would use the line path tell you what is best to use but I would guess a 16 would be more than big enough. For the rest of the guides, I would go as small as you can but still allow a knot to slide through the guide, and
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I guess what would be your deffinition of a pro level. I think the decals from Decal Connection are great decals. On a factory rod, I am not sure they use a decal, at least to me it seems they might be printed on some way to the blank. The only other thing that I have done was have a decal made up that is the vinyl type. Worked good for my logo part, but for the text, was very hard for the gu
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I like a rod that can be anywhere from 6' to 7' long. If I am fishing in tighter areas I like the shorter rod. But sometimes I am working out in more open water and like the extra length for longer casts. Like Ellis, I like the faster tip with a strong butt section. Mostly on the longer rods, you have lots of line to take up to get a hook set, so a fairly stout rod does help.
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I have done something similar to what Tam said, but instead of a bore, I turned the wood to have a small post part of the butt cap. This post is sized to fit inside the blank. What I do is rough turn the part to shape and then turn down the post section and then cut it off. Place the post end into the chuck and finish off the butt cap.
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If they are anything like the bulbs used on the Daylight lamps, they are great to work with. My old lamp finally died and replaced it with a Daylight lamp and it makes a world of difference on how well you can see things with this lamp.
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Only thing I like to do with mine is have a bit more behind the reel seat. If it is too short, then there is not handle for my hand.
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On a cork handle, while the handle is still on the mandrel for my lathe, I actually just took one of my lathe tools and carefully made the recess to put a pin into it. Then just used sandpaper to finish it up. Then I used that blue painters tape and wrapped that around the handle leaving it past the end of the handle. When I poured the epoxy in to cover the pin, I also had the epoxy go past th
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I looked around, Custom Tackle carries them. Look under Fuji reel seats.
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I do believe that Jann's, sponsor on the left use to carry them.
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