One thing I have found when using braid on a spinning reel, you can usually go down in size for the first guide. You might have to play with the position of the guide to find the best spot for how the line comes off the spool.
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I would say get it now since it is still soft and would be alot easier to remove.
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Lorenzo, I think that one you are talking about it fast action and heavy power. What Casey asked about, for power it says med mag.
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CP doe s real well by itself. I have a UL spinning rod, all the guides only have CP on the threads and it has been going for over 10 years.
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With a casting rod and all #3 micros and using braided line you will have less problems. Using all micros eliminates issues with wind knots, they control the line better off the reel. I have used the same setup with mono and I have no problems. I really didn't test for casting distance, but when I made 2 rods out of the same blank, one with micros and one with more standard guides, there was
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For most of the bass rods I make now, I am using mostly micro guides. On a casting rod, the biggest guide I am using is a 5 or 6. On spinning rods, well you still need to work your way down to the micro guides. One thing I see the first time someone casts a rod that I have reworked into casting guides, they have to adjust how they cast that rod. That is if they used any kind of motion to cast
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It might be too big of a file. I know Tom has said before what size is best, do a search and I am sure you will find something.
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If I spiral wrap I most of the time use 3-4 #6 double foot guides then go to single foot the rest of the way. The number of double foot guides I use all depends on the blank being used. After loading the rod, sometimes I find that it takes an extra guide to make a good transition on the blank. This seems to happen more of the blank flexes further down towards the handle. At least thats my expe
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To me, none of the off the shelf crankbaits rods give me what I want in a rod compared to the one I am making now.
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Its hard to find the gold ones since Fuji stopped them. I had a rod I needed to replace one guide, was lucky that someone hade a bunch.
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It is so much easier to glue the arbors inside first then ream them out. There has been many times where I know I barely have any of the arbor left after reaming. With the foam type arbors you can buy now, they ream out very easily, so gluing them in first helps alot when reaming them.
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Terry, for trolling, I could not think of anyting better than having the rod spiral wrapped. Did one for a friend one time where he used a rod with long leadcore lines and he never had the problem with the reel flipping under the rod any more. Casey, sprial wrap is for casting syle rods, where the guides start out on the same side of the reel and then transition to the bottom of the rod for m
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For myself Lorenzo I am using all micros on that crankbait rod. To spiral or not comes down to how the rod is being used for how I build. Basically slack line retrieves I spiral, tight line retrieves all on top. It depends on the position of the rod when using it the most. For bass fishing, the fighting part, with the rod under load is for a short period of time during the day.
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I have set up an 8 foot crankbait rod with using only 10 guides and a tip and not have the line go below the blank. For your setup, where on the blank is the line going below the blank? Also how much load are you putting into the rod to test the guide spacing? I guess I would need to see a pic of your setup once with the rod under the load to see what is happening.
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If you do multiple coats, it does not need much time between, I am not sure of the exact time. But to go to wrapping on the blank, I waited overnight for it.
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For the blanks, that is what I did, just wipe it on, then rub it out a bit and clean up the extra finish. It more or less just sealed up the blank from all the scrapping to remove the finish. I did not try to get a gloss finish on my rods.
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I just refinished some rods this past winter and when it came to choosing something for the blank, I took a chance and tried this: It is something I started using for my pens. 1 or 2 coats more or less seals the blank and you get a nice matte finish. If you want something more glossy, you would need to add more coats. But it is a gel type finish and takes just a rag to apply it and it very
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I would not worry about a specific category of blank, but I would prefere to use someting more in the 7 foot+ range. I like more of a fast action because depending on the lures being used, something more with a moderate action will not get the movement needed for the lure.
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Mudhole also has micro tops. If you are refereing to the new one part finish, there are a couple of older threads that say it is not out yet, still being worked on.
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If it is just the finish, no problems.
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I am using the PacBay M series of guides which give you alot more height for the ring size. I have to play with the location of the guide to get it in just the right spot.
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Personally, a 12 is a bit big for me, but if that is what he wants. I would start with the 8 myself and go right to the 6 or 5. If you start with 12, you could do without the 10, then the 8 and then the 6 or 5. General rule for numbers is length +1 and the tip. You will need to do a static test to determine the exact number needed.
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From what I have been doing, you could easily start with a 16 for the first guide since you are using that light of braided line. You might even be able to go down to a 12. Try some different setups.
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For bass rods, it is as Duane says, to allow the rod to fit into the rod locker. Most rods you see like this have a length of 8" and on smaller bass boats, this will not fit in the rod locker.
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The specific degrees is a starting point really. For the rod you are doing, they may need to be adjusted to get the best line flow.
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If the tip is one with a tube, the complete tip has to come off using some heat to break the glue bond. You have to be careful how much heat you use to prevent any damage to the blank itself. If tip glue was used, they usually come off fairly easy. If epoxy was used, it can be a bit harder. After the tip is off, you want to make sure you clean off all the glue that is left behind, a little he
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Titebond III also.
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Jay, all 3's work just fine with the tip ring size of 4 or 4.5.
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You need to use the size that works best for your line path. Tape them up and try both guides, see which one works best. Curious, what size reel are you using for that rod? On something like that, I might only be using like a 20 or 16 for my butt guide and I like using the M series to get the height needed.
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Using all #3 micros is not any problem at all. The crankbait rod I mentioned above is all 3's and it casts like a dream. Guys who try it can not believe how far it will throw a lure. The blank is the one from Swampland, the XP3 964 from Castaway.
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