I would say keep moving it till you get in a spot you feel is best. It could end up being the same distance I needed for my rod.
Forum: rodboard

From working with Bill Stevens when I was working on my 8' crankbait rod, I ended up putting the guide around 28-30" from the reel.
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The CP use for threads like Madeira is not just for color, but because the threads are used for emboidery, there is silicone added to make the thread pass throught the embroidery machines easier. This can cause you to get fisheyes in the finish. If you do a search here though you will see some have tried putting some thread into the finish when mixing it and it has helped with the fisheye prob
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If you are talking the new peel and stick decals from Decal Connection, there is a backing sheet, the decal itself and then a third layer that is there to allow you to press the decal down. You remove that top layer after the decal is in place. These new peel and stick decals are made in the same kind of process as vinyl decals like you might apply to your vehicle.
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Well I do know it does add weight, enough that I rarely do anythuing like that for rods that I know will be used for tournaments. I also stripped some rods this past winter to go to micro guides and also took off the long butt wraps I had on, it took off alot of weight and the rods feel totally new and perform so much better.
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Swampland has the Kigan.
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I second the caliper. I just got one through Mud Hole and it was not that expensive. Now I don't have to guess. But what kind of winding check are you getting? if it is the rubber kind, they do stretch a bit sliding them into place. Get a few, in different sizes, they don't cost that much. If it is a metal one, I would say see if you can find someone with calipers to measure the blank.
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I only do the tip of the guide foot enough to catch the thread.
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One of the rod makers that came out with the micros first, said something of the sort that having 12 guides on the rod made it a better rod. I don't remember which rod it was or the exact number of guides that were on the rod. Next someone else came out with their own rod and it had like 2 more guides on it, saying if 12 was good, 14 had to be better. I saw the Wright-McGill rods at a Gander M
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Do a search for a threadless wrap. Been covered before.
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For myself, with how little thread you really use on the micro guides, I really don't think you would be saving any weight trying something other than size A. I bet if you were able to compare the thread used, there really would not be a difference IMO.
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The first time or so, it was a bit of a pain wrapping the micro guides, but once you have done them a few times, they are not unlike any other guide. I have found ways for me at least that work best to wrap them and the results I am most pleased with. With fishing the tournaments I do and being a non-boater, using the micro guides, my rods don't get all hung up as much any more, maiking it easi
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Steven, it would not be considered a fast action any more. Fast action referes to the upper 1/4 of the blank flexing. Now that you took away that much of a blank, it would be flexing 1/2 way down, which would be more a moderate action.
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It was the first time I tried it on the blanks. It seems to be working well. I tried one blank with one coat and the other with 2 coats to see if it makes any difference. ROds will really get put to the test here in a couple of weeks, I have our IL B.A.S.S. Fed Nat state tournament and the rods will get a lot of use over 4 days. The main reason I tried it was I didn't like the looks of the bl
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I just stripped some rods this past winter and even after doing all I could with the blanks, I just did not like the final looks of them. I tried this product I had for doing my pens on the lathe It is a satin finish and with just a coat or 2, it seemd to give me what I was wanting th see with the finished blank.
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I try to tell a person of all the benefits of a custom rod and that I can make a rod to his specifications and that person does not have to hope he can find one in the store. We can select what materials best suit the person for the rod they want. One thing though that Chad said holds true very much around here, if the person is more concerned over what he is paying for a rod, you will not get
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Personally I like using the carbon fiber tubes for a Tenn handle. I really like the look and feel of the tubing and to me seems to feel lighter than anything else.
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I will be doing the same on a blank here shortly, not cutting as much off, but 6". I was told by both Lance and Bill at Swampland, they have been cutting them without seeing any problems at all.
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Only time I have seen the U40 sealer peel is if you try to use more than 1 coat. It says to use only one coat, but putting a second coat on will peel away from the cork
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The one thing I do not like about the racks, depending on the back deck, it takes up space. Also the tips of the rods hang over the edge of the boat and if you are in tight quaters around cover, you will mess up your rods. With the covers I was talking about, if you can get your rods mostly down by your feet, only the tips are sticking up and as long as the strap is on the rods, they don't go a
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I also like the U-40 cork seal. One thing, when you want to clean your grips, it makes it easier to do.
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For the co-angler, there are rod covers that you can get that actually have a piece that goes over the reel to hold the cover in place. The only thing these are a nylon material and not the same thing that the Stick Jackets are made of. The part that goes over the reel is just a cord with some kind of adjustment slide on it. I am sure you could fashion your own thing with the Stick Jackets to
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I know alot of the guys I fish with in tournaments now are using the stick jackets or something similar on the rods before putting them in the rod lockers. These do help with getting them in and out and keeping things from tangling up. I do a mix of conventional or spiral with micros, depends on how the rod is going to be used.
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Lorenzo, I first scraped all the old finish off the blank down to bare graphite. I took a soft cloth and put some of the finish on the cloth and just rubbed it into the blank. The final step I made one long pass with the cloth to smooth it all out. You need very little of the finish on the cloth to cover the blank. The rods I refinished I had left the handles on so I had a way to prop up t
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I had this product I have been using for pens and stuff I turn. I was refinishing a few of my own rods this winter and gave t a try on the blanks. It seems to be holding up very well and I like the satin finish on it instead of having a gloss finish.
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I use the nylon rings on a handle of carbon fiber. I found using a small thin piece of rubber inside the rings opposite of the reel foot, keeps the rings in place quite nicely and then I can position the reel anywhere I like on the handle any time I want.
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What makes the tiger pattern is the bottom threads that you burnish around to make them more or less wavy. It isn't the top layer of thread that does that. The top layer, once you remove one of the threads gives a space for the bottom threads to show through.
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David you can find a 20 from Pac Bay in their Match Series guides that is a tall frame guide. It is what I have been using to get a tall guide for the smaller ring sizes I use on spinning rods.
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PIcture on Mudhole for the rod kit does not show a tenon on the rear grip at all. I would say just cut it off and glue up the handle.
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One thing, there is no medium action, you have medium power, but then you can have vaious actions. I would guess he is thinking medium power, but not sure what the action he is looking for in the rod. I don't think you would find something with that wide range of line powers. I would think you would also need to look into what lure weight he is looking to use and just what the rod is going to
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