Our shop does 5 to 6 hundred feather inlays a year on our custom rods, and we do color preserve many of our decorative thread wrap colors at the butt an ferrule details as well. For the past 15 years or so we have been dependent on Guderod 811 for this purpose ... We preferred this product as it was clear and water based <> Not milky like all other CPs. We prefer the clear as we can see
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Well through a little more experimentation and thinking about all the comments and e-mails I got about how to keep the edge down I found that the only way so far to keep the edge down was to not do a full wrap with the edge finishing on top of the decal. The edge to rod bond is sound and does not lift (2 decals is all so far) but all the different ways I tried to get an overlap to stay did not
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I just got done wrapping some guides on my rod and with that bright lime green neon maderia thread, so when i put that cp over the thread cause it called for it, it darkened the thread really dark, you can not even notice it is lime or neon, is that how it is supposed to turn out,I thought maybe after it dried it would brighten up but it has been like 2 hours and it is still an dark , i don't eve
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I went a little heavy on a wrap and the ChromaSeal looks like a slurry created from powdered sugar and water. There are lots of little bumps and "pits" and while I know the epoxy will level out over this, I am concerned about light bouncing around in there and making a sparkling effect. I would like to knock it smooth with some 800 sandpaper. All indications are (including Scott Pa
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How do you get your CP to be throughly mixed but without bubbles? The instructions say not to shake it and I follow the directions but then I'm not really sure that it is adequately mixed. When I do ignore the instructions and "shake away," it comes out with many, many bubbles. Thank you.
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Short of using metallic I have been disappointed in my finish results of gold thread. I'm sure it is more then likely user error. I have tried white under wraps painting the blank white underneath I have went the CP rout and still come up with a greenish tint to it. Has anyone got a favorite line of gold that will retain it's color well? I live in an area where the gold thread is high in demand.
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Hope someone has a majic answer for me... :) I've been doing some rattle snake skin inlays on rods. I have one due by the end of the week. All that's left to do is the inlay. The skin I got has a rather dull grey finish to it. I know all skins are different, but is there something I can do to bring out whatever natural color there is? I did a search and didn't find much. Thanks, Jeff
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I have just started using CP on guide wraps. When I put finish on the wraps I get bubbles coming out of the tunnels on the side of the guide foot. I am only using one coat of Chromaseal and get good color retention, do I need the extra coat or two to fill the tunnel with CP? When I put on the CP it floods thru the thread and fills the tunnel, but once it dries it's hollow again. Thanks,
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I have a question. As i understand it color preserver prohibits the epoxy from soaking into the thread. Doesnt that weaken the bonding and result in a weaker wrap? I got bit by the building bug and am working on 2 fly rods and next 2 halibut rods. I would love to be able to use a color preserver on two of them but not if its going to diminish the wrap strength. Thanks again for all your help!!
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I just tried pro wrap metallic for the first time and was impressed with the toughness of the thread- the outer layer does not peel off as readily when the end of the thread is pulled back through as my other metallic thread did. Good stuff!
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I have some rod dancer chroma seal color preserver. Will this work on madeira thread? Also, how many coats of color preserver should be used?
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hay guys i have all ways used ncp thread but have got some rodsmith nylon thread and some water cp i really like the colors of the raw thread but i have herd many things about the glue getting crazy cracks so my questions r can i use the thread with out cp and what will happen if i do??? i had a test using some cp and the thread swelled and started to move when i was applying it did i use too
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I have read that this CP is similar to the 911 CP But was wondering if any one knows witch one is more like it Thanks
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With the recent layoff of the entire workforce and closing the doors for time being where will everyone go for their nylons now? About a month or so ago it was said here that Gudebrod was done and people on here basically said it was a lie to promote another distributor/company. Not trying to stir any crap but I hope everyone that did that feels like they owe someone an apology.
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Okay I wrote the customer's name with acrylic artist's ink and let it dry overnight. When I coated it with Chromaseal it melted the ink and I had to clean it all up and redo (it takes a few tries before I am happy with the lettering). Should I try coating with U40 colorlock 2 or just go ahead with epoxy? I have Permagloss here, also. I have had epoxy not want to lay down over some inks so I have
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Hello fellow rodbuilders, I am about to take my first shot at a snake skin inlay for a butt decoration. I've read the article in RM magazine and all the other tutorials that i can find. The question is which cp would you more experienced rodbuilders reach for as a first choice for tacking down and coating the skin? I have the following brands; Flex Coat, Glass Coat, Gudebrod 811, Diamondite, C
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What brand of CP and finish do you guys recomend. I am a begginer. Thanks, Barry
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Re: Madeira Thread Posted by: Joe Sullivan (---.hsd1.fl.comcast.net) Date: June 07, 2010 08:49PM Paul, I found out what "fish eyes" are! Put on 2 coats of Carsons Crystal Clear CP. When I applied the flex coat I saw them start to show up - the finish sort of "separates." Used to putting the first coat on kind of thick at the base, where the longest run of Maderia was and
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We have been busy working on our new products. The RodDancer all in one kits, has what the new and experienced builder needs to build a couple of rods. Great opportunity for the new builder to get their feet wet with and a chance for the experienced builder to try some great products. Kit includes 12ml syringes of ThreadMaster, Ultimate Gel 15 min 2oz, 1/2oz Chromaseal, Ultimate Gel 5min, B
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MIDWEST ROD AND REELS WEB GUY NOW HAS ALL THE NEW PRODUCT UP AND READY TO SEE AND BUY ON THE WEB-SITE NOW.....HERE IS THE LIST WITH LINK TO TAKE A LOOK 1-Fish Hawk Variegated Rod Winding Thread 2-FULL NEW LINE UP OF Epoxies / Glues / Rod Finishing Products 3-BATSON Custom Aluminum Winding Checks 4-BATSON Custom Winding Check System for Size 16 Casting Reel Seats Used Without Foregrips
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How long do you wait between two coats of Chromaseal CP and a first coat of FlexCoat Hi-Build? Room is 70°F
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MIDWEST ROD AND REEL HAS THE NEW FISHHAWK VARIEGATED THREAD IN STOCK IN ALL 25 COLORS...WE WILL NOT HAVE IT ON THE WEB-SITE FOR ABOUT A WEEK...BUT HERE IS A LINK TO THE COLORS CALL OR E-MAIL US FOR PRICES
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One of the members posted some photos of a "Fishhawk Verigated Thread". Is this a new Fishhawk product? Who sells it? Does anyone have any info on this product?
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I want to welcome everyone attending the expo to stop by the RodDancer booth and check out all the fine products we will have to offer this year. It's always good to see old friends and meet new ones. The Threadmaster finishes and Ultimate Gels are still increasing in popularity as they truly are second to none. We have a great selection of the original Exotic cork rings like Laguna, Burnt and C
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has anyone had difficulty polying madeira thread or is just me. It looks great with all the different shades for fading but I just cant seem to get to poly smoothly, it wants to soak up in some spots and not in others.So if anyone can help with this dillema I would appreciate it.
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Hey guys after wrapping a few rods, I noticed that I need some type of color preserver to keep the thread color on my guide wraps. Used a greyish thread, and after applying the finish they are all now black. Totally lost its thread color, looks fine still, actually looks good with the guides but in the future what kind of preserver should I used. Use Flexcoat guide finish on my rods. Any tips
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I used Chromo Seal for the first time on some test wraps. I applied four coats and let the last coat dry for two days. When I applied the Flex Coat, the CP repelled the finish. Anybody else experience this? Any clues?
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I'm looking for opinions here: Which color preserver causes the least amount of change in the color of the thread to which it is applied? I use a good deal of Metro brand poly thread in my weaves and for under wraps. Like Madeira, it is silicon treated and requires a color preserver. I have been using Flex Coat brand, but the colors come out darker after the preserver dries. I'm looking fo
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Just got an ALPS this afternoon and been getting it set up and playing around. Once I was making some half decent decals I wanted to do a test on a scrap blank. I dont know if you other guys with these printers have this problem but the ink seemed quite delicate on the film. On my test pcs even a VERY gentle rub or dab to bed the decal and the print would start to break off. I am using dense whit
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I just finished a rod for my dear wife I used Madeira Ploly neon 40 thread and HT Metalic for trim bands. I applied three coats of Chromaseal color preserver to the rod each coat was given a minimum of 12 hrs drying time between coats. I then applied Flexcoat Highbuild finish to the wraps. I used the Pac-Bay mixer to mix the finish I turned the rod in the dryer for 12 hrs . I checked the rod t
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