Perfect! Just what I was looking. After a long day at the Expo....I like to eat some fine southern food. ...for me at least...not sure what the 'Way Better-Half' will be doing... But as in HighPoint she will find things to do...spending $$$ is a given. Thanks All. Larry
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For you guys that live in the area. Can you suggest some local eateries in the area. I'm looking for fried catfish and I would assume just about any place would be good for BBQ. Thanks, Larry
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Second on Lou A.'s accolades on Morris S. He has cost me a lot of money :):) but I have enjoyed the last year turning everything... Larry
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Larry, I wouldn't use wax as a releaxe agent. It > will contaminate the inside of the grip, and make > a positive bond to the blank very difficult to > achieve. You are probably right, but for the most part the fly rods I build always require me to ream out the handle to fit the blank, and they are
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If you can't find anything for use as a 'releasing-agent' and you have a candle laying around...all I do is rub the candle wax along the threaded rod...it fills the thread. When all is done...like the others have stated..chuck it up in a drill and unscrew it. works for me. Larry
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Chris, Roger W. is the Man! I found these to be a little better on wear when using with graphite blanks. I have a one with the metal bearings, and I am sure I am not using it right , but I was getting some wear marks on my blanks so I got the Penn version with the rubber/plastic rollers. I had to file the locking piece that locks the rest to fit my Delta midi, but it was painless.
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I also use a pen barrel trimmer and then a Dremel with either a sanding ring or a stone to enlarge it to size. I use both a hand drill or chuck in in the lathe. Both work well. Larry
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Phil, May I get a copy also? I thank you sir, Larry
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Thomas, Just be warned...it will cost you! $$$ I stopped by Morris' booth for the 1st time last year...I wasn't interested in the past... and now I am an 'lathe-addict'. I was fortunate to have someone at my local church give me an almost new midi-lathe...but I made up for it purchasing all kind of 'stuff.' for it. Come to the show. You won't regret it... even if only to watch and talk wi
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If your wife (or if you do!) knits... aluminum knitting needles work great. They come in various sizes and fit quite well in rod blanks. I like them especially when I do those multiple piece 2/3wts and need to wrap the ferrules. Larry
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I second Ken F. It is definitely worth the price and if you do attend the show you definitely want to attend the reception. I won a St.Croix rod blank a year or two ago. Jason The St. Croix 'Guy' let me chose the blank. 99.9% of my rod builds are flyrods, but I've never built a switch. So I got one of those. Always wanted one myself, so I kept it. You won't be disappointed. larry
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Steve, Not sure what you mean by "...they cannot be allowed to built a surface film because that film, even fully cured, will be soft...." or are you just referring to 'tung-oil'? I've got a number of Tru-Oil coated grips and they all have multiple coats (more than 3, some with 6 coats) and soft is not what I would call them. Granted they are probably not as hard as Perma-Gloss, b
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Roger, I leave it in the cup. I use a 230gr 45 cal pistol bullet as my 'mixing-rod'. It's flat on the base so it gets into the bottom of the cup. Once it is thorughly mixed (3-5min) I just place the medicine cup with epoxy and mixer in a cold tin pan about the size of a small peanut butter jar top. I found this pan in an antique store...don't know what it is made of, or what it was for,
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Dave, Thanks I will try the Birchwood Casey sealer. With all these different finishes I have been using...I might have to put together a test-rod using "Hot-glue" for the handle and reel seat. Just so I can test all these handles without having to build separate rods for them...hummm another experiment? Can't see why it would not work Please chime in. Probably should st
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I use elastic sewing thread. I cut them between 11/2" to 3" depending on the diameter of the blank. Tie them on with a clove hitch, slide the guide feet under them, (I just use one piece for each guide), snug them up if need be, align them and wrap. A flick of my packer and they fly off. Unlike tubing and tape (which can leave a residue) , they are reusable, I think a lot easier to
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Maryann, If you don't want to shim as Joe V. suggested.... If you have a large supply of medicine cups like most of us do... and... if your medicine cup is smaller than the epoxy mixing cup, just glue/epoxy one of your medicine cups into the epoxy mixing cup or directly to the epoxy mixer (Pac bay) and use that as the holder for your mixing cups. It's easily removable if your cup s
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I just coated a couple of my fly rod handles with Tru-oil to see how they hold will up next year. I normally use Cork-Seal but I have to re-coat every year sometimes twice. Try it on a old cork handle before you put it on one you will sell. Some people don't like the feel, and would prefer 'raw' sanded cork. I don't mind it on my rods...I do like the feel of 'raw' sanded cork but I'm wea
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Lorenzo, It would have been a 'white-wash' if you didn't have that 'Shiny' new grip on that rod. :) Really nice looking grips. My grips are way more simple than yours. But I do like the shine and glossy look. Merry Christmas to you and a Happy New Year. Larry
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Lorenzo, That hi-gloss that Michael D. had in the link is what I like. I do disagree with the author and his 'dis-liking' of the hi-gloss shine. If you scratch either finish you still let moisture in. It will take a bit more time to refinish the hi-gloss if you scratch it...but that's what I like so it ain't a big deal...too me. As Scott H. said 10 secs with each grit of Micro-mesh is all
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Lorenzo, I have just recently been experimenting with Tru-oil on grips. I polish to 12000...Yes 12,000. I like the hi-sheen Tru-oil can give. I haven't tested any of my grips yet and am not sure about how well they will hold up. I'll find out when Spring comes around next year. For those who do this chime-in. Any issue with water-repellency? I use Micro-mesh pads. I have been
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Just finished two cork handles and used only Tru-oil and they are NOT Slick! I am not sure what you guys are talking about when you refer to it getting slick with "multiple coats". How many coats is "multiple coats"? I use between 6-10 coats of Tru-oil and it has yet to get slick.... I don't see how it will get slicker with more coats. Are we all using the same Tru
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I just got interested in U-40 PG and have been keeping to the smaller containers as I 'experiment.' with the stuff. I've been using one of those co2 dispenseser($12Innovations Ultraflate Plus CO2 --see link) to "displace the air with a heavier than air alternative". I think it's a bit safer than propane.:) then it's back in the fridge. Might be over kill but it seems to work. I'l
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I agree with Phil. I also use the pencil point butane soldering iron. I can control the amount of heat way better than the open flame of the alcohol burner. Using it always made me feel a bit uneasy about the open flame. With the little soldering iron it’s on instantly and off with a flick of the switch. Mine was a broken tip one that can only produce heat and no flame. The heat blows out th
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Just a suggestion. Since most of us have copiers at home/business. I just copy the article and use that in the shop. Being at times an 'accident waiting to happen' this prevents coffee, glue, epoxy etc., from ruining my really nice copies of RodMaker. Larry
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Same here. I never clean my syringes. I have one each Thread-Mstr A & B; T-M lite A & B; Flex-Coat A & B. Once the bottles are empty I throw them out, but reuse the syringes. I am still using the same syringes I bought 6 yrs ago when I started building rods. Larry
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Jim, I alway like to 'look' at your carbon grips. (Sorry but I do 'steal' your ideas.) Any chance of having you do an updated seminar on making them. I'd be interested in seeing any chances to procedures., similiar to the recent Rod Mag article on the Carbon grips. Thanks. Larry
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I quit using tape to mark my guides, because of the sticky glue. depending on brand of tape alcohol normally works but sometimes it does not...and then it gets to be a mess. I now use one of those Dry Eraser markers to mark the location of my guides and tie them on with round elastic cord you get from sewing stores. (name brand one I use is call Stretchrite) The Dry Eraser just wipes off on
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Tom, Is there a chance that Morris Schlesinger will be back? I will admit that this is self-serving but, any chance that he could put on a course similiar to what you had at the end, but after, the 2012 show? I could not attend that class...too close to the show. But I would be willing to show up a day early or stay a day longer just to attend Morris' class. I have to believe that the
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Same here. Tom, Not sure if this is feasible, and if Morris S. is willing. It would be nice to do something similair during the Expo. Maybe a day, 1/2 day, 2hrs, early or after, or even during the show. I would be willing to pay him $35 or a bit more to get instruction. Since I am already at the show it would be easier to stay an extra day or come in early just for the instruction i
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$300 -$400...That's how much Morris S. has cost me since the show! :) I ended up getting a used Delta similiar to the one he was using at the show. Fortunately it cost me nada. But the other stuff I'm still ordering and it ain't cheap! By the way those interested in NOVA chucks. Nova has a few of their Precision Midi Chuck (reconditioned) for sale $79.00. I hope Morris has put the Expo20
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