I recently read a post from someone wanting to get narrow tape for positioning guides for wrapping. I just went to Wesco auto supply and bought 1/8th " and 1/4" auto masking tape. This is great stuff, similar to the blue painters tape for walls. It is a light green color and does not leave a residue behind like regular masking tape does. The 1/8" is perfect for smaller guides especially single foots. Hope this helps someone. Randy

The problem with adhesive tape of any width is it makes accurate positioning of guide feet very difficult. When you push a guide against adhesive tape it jumps. It doesn't slide. On the other hand three turns of elastic thread (available at sewing supplies store), secured by a square knot will allow the guide to be moved in tiny increments either along the axis of the blank or around the circumference of the blank. Once you get the guide in the right position then secure it with all the adhesive tape you wish.

No!!! It doesn't. I have used tape on the guide feet for nearly 40 years, and have never had a problem. Not ever!!! Careful positioning is all that is required. If you think you can tie a square knot easier, then go ahead.

All I use now is glue runners. Once you try them you will never use tape again. You can still move the guide around once wrapped and spin it at 100 rpm before wrapping.

Try using some surgical tubing. Cut it in thin sizes (like a rubber band). Slide down the blank and attach your guide. You can also adjust guides if you need to easily. Once you start wrapping over the guide cut the band off. This is cheaper than buying tape. And a foot of surgical tubing goes a long way. Mudhole has some [www.mudhole.com] and local hobby shops may too.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2012 11:30PM by Jim Rippe.

Randolph,
I couldn't agree with you more. 1/8th and 1/4 inch painters tape from the body shop works very well indeed.

However, I will say that for building Ice rods with very very tiny blanks near the tip - that the use of micro 0 rings works even better.
I use O rings that are just large enough to slip over the rod tips which are about 2/64th on some of these fine tipped builds. The problem with using tape on this part of these very skinny blanks, is that thee is not a lot of blank area for the tape to grab.

But for everything else, the tape works very well.

Be safe
Roger

Randolph,
I couldn't agree with you more. 1/8th and 1/4 inch painters tape from the body shop works very well indeed.

However, I will say that for building Ice rods with very very tiny blanks near the tip - that the use of micro 0 rings works even better.
I use O rings that are just large enough to slip over the rod tips which are about 2/64th on some of these fine tipped builds. The problem with using tape on this part of these very skinny blanks, is that thee is not a lot of blank area for the tape to grab.

But for everything else, the tape works very well.

Be safe
Roger

This is always an interesting discussion and falls into about 3 camps: The tape camp, using thin strips either cut or purchased, then wrap, the surgical tube camp (I'll put the elastic thread vote in this camp but it's sort of a new one to me) and the guide foot glue camp.

I'm a glue camper. The tape disadvantage for me is that sometimes guides do move with tape, especially the small single foot guides where the tape has to be very thin to apply and still have room to get some wraps on. With guide foot glue, the guide is solid while wrapping, but can easily be moved to reposition for alignment after wrapping. The only exception to this is that if I use double foot REC snakes, which often don't lie flat on the blank, I'll have one end glued and one end not, so I have to use some tape to get the 2nd foot wrapped, but not a huge deal. The down side with glue is that you can get too much. If you are wrapping without CP, this have a negative effect on the look so the learning curve is getting the right amount but this was only a matter of a few guides for me.

I don't have the patience for surgical tubing as it takes time to slide them all on, and I never seem to get it tight enough to hold down the guide when I wrap. I understand some folks like this method so it's probably just me.

Terry

Terry,
Out of curiosity, why does one care if the guide moves a bit after taping it in place while wrapping the guide?

Guides should be wrapped so that after wrapping, you can use a bit of force to move a guide or twist a guide as needed on a rod.

I generally wrap about 1/2 of the guide, and then double check the placement and orientation. If an adjustment is needed, I make it at that time, because it is easier to move before all of the wraps are in place.

Be safe
Roger

When I wasn't as meticulous about prepping guide feet properly, I had issues with the guide moving while taped as I wrapped. Less of an issue now that the guide prep process is down pat for several years. Plus on some very small guides, particularly in the tip section, I found it difficult to secure the guide well enough and still leave room to wrap. Once I started using glue, it was the easiest process for me so I just continued. I use tape on occasion if it's just a guide or 2 with a repair, but if I set up for a whole rod, I always use the glue method.

If you like tape, by all means use it. I just found the glue method works best for me. The time it takes to heat a guide, smear the glue and attach is about the same amount as taping so no real time savings I don't think, except in the tip area.

Terry

I thought that I would show the method that I use for holding the guides for wrapping,checking the placement & test casting .The idea is not mine but as I understand belongs to a bloke by the name of Mark Vogt .
Since starting to use this I have solved all my problems with holding the small guides & stopping the slipping backwards of the guide as the wrap starts to move onto the guide foot

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Barry,

Did I read that right; you test cast with all that gear holding the guides in place? How?

John yes I do test cast making sure that the hair bands are pulled tight (all elasticity taken out) & using a light lure .All I am trying to do is listen for line slap Looking on the retrieve that the line looks right coming back through the guides .I don't try for distance but it seems that if everything is right distance takes of it's self

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

I use wire ties. I figure out where I want the giude then go up the the rod a 1/4 inch make it slightly snug p lace the guide under the tie and it slide it into position . you can make it very tight if you want .For wrapping guides you can a slide and adjust very easily. Try to place the tie as far forword as you can it will help to keep the tip of the guide down, still leaving room to start your wrap. When casting use additional elastic thread.

I use elastic sewing thread.
I cut them between 11/2" to 3" depending on the diameter of the blank.
Tie them on with a clove hitch, slide the guide feet under them, (I just use one piece for each guide), snug them up if need be, align them and wrap.
A flick of my packer and they fly off.
Unlike tubing and tape (which can leave a residue) , they are reusable, I think a lot easier to use and a lot cheaper than either.
Yes, I will admit you don't use a whole lot of tape or tubing...but I am cheap.

To each his own.


Larry

I use the same thing Barry uses, but mine have wooden beads. I have test casted rods several times, static tested etc. with no problems. They work excellent and mine are home made. I showed them at our last rod building gathering in Canton, OH.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Wooden Beads to hold a guide on for wrapping? How does that work?

G'Day Randolph. It's much the same as tying the guide with elastic except that you do n have to cut them off .All you do is stretch the elastic & slide the bead up to the underside of the blank .As long there is enough friction between the bead & the hair band its nor going to move unless you want it to.

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Hi Barry,
Have you tried them on micro's? Might have to steal some of my wifes beads and make a few using sewing elastic and see how they go. I used tape for years but after trying the sewing elastic I would never go back to tape, sorry Randolph, it's only good for picking up bits of thread from the work area IMO, too fiddly for holding guides on and far too difficult if you need to move them a few times.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

G'day Col I have tried them on micros but I use a small bead made from used "Mudhole"epoxy brushes .The ones in the photo are too large to allow you to wrap with them attached .Remind me when you are up next I'll show you

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia