Ok I think I am going to make the plunge and buy a used JML 1014I from a guy for a pretty good price.
What do I need to make it functional for rod building. I mostly do bass rods. I will probably only be using it for cork until I figure out the fancier stuff I can do.
Any other suggestions on what I will need?
Thanks

[jettools-online.com]

1. A good chuck for the head stock. Either 3 or 4 jaw. Able to open to at least 4 inches.
2. A good Jacobs style chuck for the tail stock 0- 1/2 inch keyless.
3. An inexpensive set of turning chisels and gouges. Later on, you can get a better set.
3. A good way to sharpen your tools.
4. Depending on what width tool rests that come with the lathe, you might want to buy a couple more rests of different widths.
5. As you do more work, you will want to have the bed extension. Although you don't need the bed extension for a lot of work, the ability to simply slide the tail stock down and out of the way helps to make your work go more quickly.
Then, as you do make longer pieces; the bed extension is mandatory.

Over time, it is likely that you will end up picking up two or three more chucks of different sizes. You may also end up picking up a couple more Jacobs style chucks.
Many times, I will use a jacobs style chuck in both the head stock and tailstock when I am doing precise drilling.

6. One thing that is a very big asset is the purchase of a set of center bore bits:
[www.amazon.com]


Summary,
At the end of the day, plan on spending at least as much for accessories, as you spend for the Lathe. If you don't, you won't be able to make use of all of the lathes capabilities.

Another very very useful tool to have is a ball bearing steady rest. Either buy one, or make one to hold the end of a long piece of work stable when you have to work on a centering hole or similar:

I have made a set of these to use for my full length rod lathe to support the blank when I am turning a handle that is glued up on the blank.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

However, they work very well to support the end of a long work piece when working on the end of the work piece.

Here is a commercial rod rest:
[littlemachineshop.com]

and:

[www.woodcraft.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/21/2013 06:18PM by roger wilson.

Thanks!

Chris,
Roger W. is the Man!

I found these to be a little better on wear when using with graphite blanks.

[www.pennstateind.com]

I have a one with the metal bearings, and I am sure I am not using it right , but I was getting some wear marks on my blanks so I got the Penn version with the rubber/plastic rollers. I had to file the locking piece that locks the rest to fit my Delta midi, but it was painless.

What will be painful is the amount of $$ you will spend on this addiction!
Good luck.

Larry

As steady rests go, there are some very nice examples used by the custom pool cue crowd. If you're looking for the mid to higher end, you might want to check out [www.cuesmith.com]

I guess my next question is what is a cheaper 4 jaw chuck for the headstock? I do several split grip rods and really want a good way to drill out the butt grips since you can't ream all the way through them.
My plan is to use the 3 or 4 jaw to hold the butt grip and use a chuck with a bit to in the tail stock to drill them out to make them fit.
When turning grips do most folks glue up the grips on a mandrel and then shape them on the lathe or do they glue them up directly to the blank and turn them that way?

You can do it either way, but shaping on a mandrel has a couple of advantages. First of all, you'll never split your new $200 blank because you won't be turning it at 2000+rpm on a lathe. Second, when you turn a blank the blank will deflect because of the spine, the faster you turn it, the more it will deflect (run eccentrically). If you shape on a blank, you will be shaping the grip round on a bent blank. When you stop turning the blank and it straightens back out, your grip will be slightly misshapen (you may or may not be able to notice this).

Using a steel mandrel will allow you to turn your grips faster and apply greater pressure than you can on a blank. Your grip will be smoother and more uniform in shape.

Again you can do it either way, but ask yourself this, why don't you find flexible turning mandrels for sale anywhere?

make the butt end grips - without the end caps on Do them as said off the rod
Then glue the end cap on and shape it make sure it fits over the BUTT of the rod
easier then on the blank once you get the hang of how to do it
I make a piece of scrap blank to fit tightly ( using tape ) into the end put on a drill and shape
Scrap blanks come in quite handy

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/22/2013 07:10PM by bill boettcher.

If you are getting any marks on a blank, be sure to put a couple of wraps on the blank before using the steady rests.

For my wrappers, I use rubber O rings on the steady rests to cushion the blank and no masking tape required.

But for the high speed lathe, whether doing a handle separately, or on a blank, I will be using masking tape on any thing that touches the solid ball bearing rests to avoid bearing marks.

The key is to use only a single wrap of tape. If you make the tape too thick, you will find that there is too much give in the steady rest and you will be unable to shape as well.

Be safe
Roger

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What speed is a good speed for turning cork handle?