Nearly the same as Bill in that I only use a small amount of adhesive. When I've done cork I use Titebond. I put a dab on and spread it around...then I take a razor blade and scrape it all off. It only takes the smallest amount on the face of the ring.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2013 11:21AM by Jay Lancaster.

Thanks Bill. That is very good advice and I will follow it. By the way, are you a steelheader?

Thanks Don. I have been meaning to ask if you are a Steelheader. How about Walleye?

Thanks everyone for all your great comments. I really got some great help. Love this forum!!

Thanks Jay. That sounds even better.

I like a Spring day knee deep in a small stream for trout with a fly rod

Bill - willierods.com

If you can't find anything for use as a 'releasing-agent' and you have a candle laying around...all I do is rub the candle wax along the threaded rod...it fills the thread.

When all is done...like the others have stated..chuck it up in a drill and unscrew it.

works for me.


Larry

Be careful with "release agents".
Contaminate whatever tool you are using to open up the ID of the grip?
I also use the threaded rod system and simply unscrew it.
Very quick, never had an issue doing it that way.
Different lengths and double lock nuts at one end, a wingnut at the other, several from a 36" length of 1/4 rod.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Don't be cheap
Get REGULAR Rod Bond or similar
A little bit and the handle will come right off
Elmers Wood Glue works well as a CP for thread Gluing rings cork or wood ???

Bill - willierods.com

Sure you can use RodBond...it'll work great, but so will Titebond. I've never had a grip come apart. My philosophy is if it's easier and it works, why complicate things. Use what works for you...it doesn't bother me.

And it's not being "cheap". It's being smart.

I have titebond and it seems to dry really fast The rod bond gives me more time to glue the rings and then I try to get them all even so there is less sanding

Sorry about the cheap

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2013 09:05AM by bill boettcher.

bill boettcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have titebond and it seems to dry really fast
> The rod bond gives me more time to glue the rings
> and then I try to get them all even so there is
> less sanding
>
> Sorry about the cheap


And you're exactly right. There's a reason and a use for everything. Thanks for the post.

By the way,
To save time- when you have a long threaded rod, and you need to thread a nut down the length of the rod - just chuck the rod in your variable speed drill - grab the nut with a plier and run the nut down the length of the rod.
After every rod, I always run a nut full length up and down the rod several times to clean up the threads of any glue or other junk that might be jamming the thread. The drill makes very quick work of this chore.

If you need to do a lot of cleaning on the threaded rod, use a bench mounted wire wheel on your grinder motor. The wire wheel also really helps to clean up the threads on the rod very quickly.
If you have a non threaded rod, the bench mounted wire wheel does a nice job of cleaning off any rust or other junk from the rod.

[www.grainger.com]



Roger

Larry, I wouldn't use wax as a releaxe agent. It will contaminate the inside of the grip, and make a positive bond to the blank very difficult to achieve.

like Roger has stated I take the threaded ron put it in a drill and use a fine hack saw blade to clean it
just run the blad in the gruves as it turns

never had to use a release agent Just use a good bonding agent - but less

Bill - willierods.com

I would use canning wax on my solid mandrels. Would just lightly rub it up and down the mandrel with it turning in the lathe. I never worried about contamination as my blanks are usually large enough to require a decent reaming on the grip. Once I use a pilot bit and a tapered reamer I'm pretty sure there are no contaminants left.

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Larry, I wouldn't use wax as a releaxe agent. It
> will contaminate the inside of the grip, and make
> a positive bond to the blank very difficult to
> achieve.

You are probably right, but for the most part the fly rods I build always require me to ream out the handle to fit the blank, and they are alway bigger than the 1/4" threaded rod. so by the time I am finshed any wax left has been reamed out.

But I will keep that in mind for any really thin builds I do in the future. Thanks.

Larry