I have found much info about bursting bubbles in the rod wrap with an alcohol burner. What distance is the flame positioned below the rod wrapping when bursting bubbles? I know a small flame will be best for me , and I need to start cautiously, but I do not want to ruin a wrap job or blank or not get enough heat to do the desired job.

On the rare occasion I use a torch, I don't put the flame under the rod, I put it beside the rod. Usually it's when I rushed while mixing the finish and all of the bubbles didn't come out when I put it on the foil.

Try a pencil-point electric soldering iron. The heat can be applied to a small area and controlled to an extent impossible with an open flame.

Sounds crazy but try blowing though a straw It works
Also thin finish lets the bubbles escape from the finish

Bill - willierods.com

I use the Alcohol Torch, it's better than just the flame glass bottle types because of the little spout that shoots a flame when you squeeze the plastic bottle, I don't worry about bubbles when i mix my finish because i can get them all out with this great little tool! I was using it today on a tiger wrap, all i do is hold it really close and squeeze and shoot, repeatedly while turning the rod with my left hand and seeing all the bubbles burst until i get to the end of the wrap, after this it's usually a little wavy, so i do a few strokes along the wrap with my brush, removing a little finish here and there, then i'll hold the flame about 4 inches away under the wrap and move it quickly from left to right, not staying to long in one spot, and the finish levels out nicely and i put it in my dryer.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)

If you wish to control the amount of heat applied to a specific area I suggest you use an inexpensive, pencil point, electric soldering iron and regulate the distance from your stock. You could use the alcohol to clean wounds, fuel a barbie, or better yet consume - and the soldering iron is less likely to set you on fire or burn down your house.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2012 03:07PM by Phil Ewanicki.

I agree with Phil.
I also use the pencil point butane soldering iron. I can control the amount of heat way better than the open flame of the alcohol burner. Using it always made me feel a bit uneasy about the open flame.
With the little soldering iron it’s on instantly and off with a flick of the switch. Mine was a broken tip one that can only produce heat and no flame. The heat blows out the side port, so with the rod turning I can add a little controlled heat to pop those bubbles. i place my hand just behind the rod as it turns and I can feel/regulate the amount of heat . "Hand burns...thread/epoxy/and rod burns!'

I have also found that with experience I get less and less bubbles. I now use it primarily to get the air out from under the guide foot.
Works for me.

Larry

Best advice you're gonna get - take a scrap blank, put some thread on it, mix and apply finish - and see how much it takes to pop the bubbles yourself. Also see how much it takes to make the finish drip, then smoke, then bubble up and burn. I don't care what you use, everyone uses it differently and you need to figure it out for yourself.

I've tried most and found the most effective for me is blowing through a 7-11 Slurpee straw (the fat ones with a "scoop" like end on them). At least that's how I explain to my wife why I buy Slurpees.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Rex,
It is so simple.
Just use a heat gun as shown on one of the former posts to take care of the issue.

I don't like to use a flame on the blank for this purpose.

The heat gun supplies air, as if you were using a straw to blow the bubbles and the gun supplies the heat as if you were using the torch.

Very simple. Pretty fool proof, as long as you use your head to avoid overheating.

Roger

I mix mechanically so I seldom have bubbles, If I do, I use the Bubble Buster from Mud Hole. It is inexpensive and it works good.

If I were to use a flame, I would hold it to the side of the rod and blow on the flame towards the rod.


Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

X2 on the straw. It's more like exhaling than blowing. The few times I tried a flame I was sorry.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

I swipe the kids' straws that bend. The bend keeps any spit from rolling out and hurting my feelings. I also use the glass bottle torch. I just hold my hand over the blank. If its too hot for my hand, I back off. I will also use the MH Bubble Buster for cross wraps because they seem to take longer to come out for me. I will leave for 20-30 minutes and come back and give it a squirt, and wha-la, they are gone.

Someone also gave me a tip to try DNA in a bottle like the Bubble Buster bottle. When I run out, I will give it a whirl and see what happens.

There are several ways to skin a cat, you have several methods expressed, and I hope you find one that fits for you.

Thanks to all of you for your responses. I think I can speak for all "newbies" (and maybe some old hats also) for the numerous ways to skin this cat. God bless each of you.

Years ago I read about using a flame to get rid of bubbles. I thought that this would be a miracle cure for a beginning builder like myself. I tried it a couple of times without much success. Yes, I know that I just needed to learn to do it properly. Instead, I decided to learn how to do it without the aid of heat. It ended up being a very small learning curve with my finish of choice. I even mix my finish fairly aggressively in the cup not worrying at all about incorporating air into the mix. I don't even worry about it any more.

Jay Lancaster
What is your rod finish of choice for the no bubble / no heat effect? I am trying to start my commercial operation on a retiree's budget on and just do not have the startup capital to purchase one of everything to test it myself.

I have really liked aftcoat. It fits my style.