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Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Jay Lancaster
(---.hsd1.sc.comcast.net)
Date: January 24, 2013 11:20AM
Nearly the same as Bill in that I only use a small amount of adhesive. When I've done cork I use Titebond. I put a dab on and spread it around...then I take a razor blade and scrape it all off. It only takes the smallest amount on the face of the ring. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2013 11:21AM by Jay Lancaster. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Harry Bell
(---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: January 24, 2013 12:34PM
Thanks Bill. That is very good advice and I will follow it. By the way, are you a steelheader? Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Harry Bell
(---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: January 24, 2013 12:36PM
Thanks Don. I have been meaning to ask if you are a Steelheader. How about Walleye? Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Harry Bell
(---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: January 24, 2013 12:37PM
Thanks everyone for all your great comments. I really got some great help. Love this forum!! Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Harry Bell
(---.dhcp.aldl.mi.charter.com)
Date: January 24, 2013 12:39PM
Thanks Jay. That sounds even better. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: January 24, 2013 12:41PM
I like a Spring day knee deep in a small stream for trout with a fly rod Bill - willierods.com Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Larry Ohara
(---.clppva.east.verizon.net)
Date: January 24, 2013 12:44PM
If you can't find anything for use as a 'releasing-agent' and you have a candle laying around...all I do is rub the candle wax along the threaded rod...it fills the thread.
When all is done...like the others have stated..chuck it up in a drill and unscrew it. works for me. Larry Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Ron Schneider
(---.mid.dyn.suddenlink.net)
Date: January 24, 2013 04:16PM
Be careful with "release agents".
Contaminate whatever tool you are using to open up the ID of the grip? I also use the threaded rod system and simply unscrew it. Very quick, never had an issue doing it that way. Different lengths and double lock nuts at one end, a wingnut at the other, several from a 36" length of 1/4 rod. Best wishes, Ron Schneider Schneider's Rod Shop Mountain Home, Arkansas [www.schneidersrods.com] mtnron40@yahoo.com 870-424-3381 Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: January 24, 2013 04:45PM
Don't be cheap
Get REGULAR Rod Bond or similar A little bit and the handle will come right off Elmers Wood Glue works well as a CP for thread Gluing rings cork or wood ??? Bill - willierods.com Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Jay Lancaster
(---.hsd1.sc.comcast.net)
Date: January 24, 2013 07:34PM
Sure you can use RodBond...it'll work great, but so will Titebond. I've never had a grip come apart. My philosophy is if it's easier and it works, why complicate things. Use what works for you...it doesn't bother me.
And it's not being "cheap". It's being smart. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: January 25, 2013 09:03AM
I have titebond and it seems to dry really fast The rod bond gives me more time to glue the rings and then I try to get them all even so there is less sanding
Sorry about the cheap Bill - willierods.com Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2013 09:05AM by bill boettcher. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Jay Lancaster
(---.hsd1.sc.comcast.net)
Date: January 25, 2013 10:34AM
bill boettcher Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > I have titebond and it seems to dry really fast > The rod bond gives me more time to glue the rings > and then I try to get them all even so there is > less sanding > > Sorry about the cheap And you're exactly right. There's a reason and a use for everything. Thanks for the post. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: January 25, 2013 03:16PM
By the way,
To save time- when you have a long threaded rod, and you need to thread a nut down the length of the rod - just chuck the rod in your variable speed drill - grab the nut with a plier and run the nut down the length of the rod. After every rod, I always run a nut full length up and down the rod several times to clean up the threads of any glue or other junk that might be jamming the thread. The drill makes very quick work of this chore. If you need to do a lot of cleaning on the threaded rod, use a bench mounted wire wheel on your grinder motor. The wire wheel also really helps to clean up the threads on the rod very quickly. If you have a non threaded rod, the bench mounted wire wheel does a nice job of cleaning off any rust or other junk from the rod. [www.grainger.com] Roger Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Randolph Ruwe
(---.hsd1.wa.comcast.net)
Date: January 25, 2013 03:50PM
Larry, I wouldn't use wax as a releaxe agent. It will contaminate the inside of the grip, and make a positive bond to the blank very difficult to achieve. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: January 25, 2013 05:07PM
like Roger has stated I take the threaded ron put it in a drill and use a fine hack saw blade to clean it
just run the blad in the gruves as it turns never had to use a release agent Just use a good bonding agent - but less Bill - willierods.com Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Jay Lancaster
(---.hsd1.sc.comcast.net)
Date: January 25, 2013 09:50PM
I would use canning wax on my solid mandrels. Would just lightly rub it up and down the mandrel with it turning in the lathe. I never worried about contamination as my blanks are usually large enough to require a decent reaming on the grip. Once I use a pilot bit and a tapered reamer I'm pretty sure there are no contaminants left. Re: removing grip from mandrel
Posted by:
Larry Ohara
(---.clppva.east.verizon.net)
Date: January 27, 2013 12:49PM
Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > Larry, I wouldn't use wax as a releaxe agent. It > will contaminate the inside of the grip, and make > a positive bond to the blank very difficult to > achieve. You are probably right, but for the most part the fly rods I build always require me to ream out the handle to fit the blank, and they are alway bigger than the 1/4" threaded rod. so by the time I am finshed any wax left has been reamed out. But I will keep that in mind for any really thin builds I do in the future. Thanks. Larry Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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