The kind of weight difference you'd be talking about is absolutely nil. I seem to recall this gentleman but can't put my finger on his name. I'm sure he used the fine wire such as that sold by fly fishing shops for certain fly patterns. That's where I'd look for it. They usually have various colors and sizes. ...........
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This may not help you but I'll throw it out in just case. You can purchase a toy EVA ball, kid/pet toy, at most department or pet stores. Cut it in half, glue that half to the end of a cork section and you have a half-round ball fighting butt. We covered this in a past issue of RodMaker with an article and photos. Just something to consider if you can't find what you're looking for. It works
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The folks at PermaGloss have been trying for years to figure out how to ship it overseas by cost effective means, but haven't come up with a solution. The product is highly flammable. It contains a healthy dose of Xylene. .............
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Action is generally regarded as where the blank flexes initially. All rods have a "progressive" action which means that as you apply more and more load, the point of flex moves toward the butt. This would be true whether the rod possesses a fast, medium or slow action. .........
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Right, it costs Bernie a lot of money to send a packet out by mail so this should get his method out and he won't have to incur all the postage fees. ............
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It's a product that is costly to ship due to the solvent involved. It can't go by air mail, even here domestically. Nobody is making money on shipping charges. The prices you quote above may have been through different carriers (or contained 4 rod blanks, remember?) and anytime you start compiling shipments overseas things can get steep. Plus, shipping charges entail more than just freight an
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I saw one of Terry's rods at the Expo and really liked the smooth, clear finish on the grips. He said it was CA and this is why I had asked Ralph about the stuff when used as a coating. Remember, it was designed to be an adhesive, not a surface coating. I had the same conversation with a guy from the Valspar lab the other day. He said the same thing - that long term use of such an item out of
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Tru-Oil is actually a "wiping varnish" more than a typical oil finish. But I wouldn't use it on EVA grips. ...........
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That article will be running in the issue we mail around the first of June. It's already been outlined and prepared for publication. ................
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Yes. ..........
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NIckel Silver is hard for epoxy to bond to. The surface must be "primed." Try this, prepare a water break free surface as usual, then apply a very thin coat of CA adhesive to the surface. Let set for a few hours. Then apply epoxy and assemble as usual. This usually does the trick. ..............
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You'd have to do a search. One note of caution, I was speaking to Ralph O'Quinn after the Expo, according to him, CA does not handle moisture well. Thus it is a poor exterior coating. I haven't used it myself but others might be able to confirm or deny this. ............
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There is an almost cult following for the original BoronX blanks. They were good performers in their day, and not at all shabby even now. I'd say you got a deal. .............
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No, the topics here continue to get responses even the next day or so. The latest response does not push a past post back to the top - such a thing won't work well here due to the amount of traffic we get. .............
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They'll likely work for you, but I'm not sure I wouldn't try a Hot Shot type blank with extra fast tip suited for that lure weight. Couple it with braid and you may have what you want. ............
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Unless the guides are much too far apart (the line would do more than touch the rod - it might even pass below it if this were the case) then this isn't likely to be a problem. ................
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Slightly touching the blank under full load isn't major cause for concern. ..........
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The foam core, carbon skinned type? Try either Scott's Custom Rods or Riley Rods. Both can be found in the column to the left. ...........
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One other possibility - I have seen this happen. Slightly unmixed epoxy gets up on the side of the mixing container (this is why we all must remember to scrape the sides of the mixing container when mixing). If your brush picks that up, you get a swirly, hazy bit of finish on there. When the brush hits the middle of the mix, away from the cup edges, the clarity is fine. Just something else to
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I too prefer either gloss black, gloss white, or natural grey - any thread color looks great on any of these. But you'd be surprised at how important blank color is to the majority of fishermen and thus to the guys who build their rods. Many years ago Gary Loomis told me that since their base blanks were gloss grey and the IM6 were burgundy, they were looking for an alternative for the IMX (ea
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Understand that altering the blank finish may void the warranty. If that doesn't bother you, then proceed. The old finish does wear well - it just doesn't stand up to solvents, even the milder ones. You may be able to wipe it off with alcohol, if not IPO, then denatured. Acetone will certainly strip it clean. Wash with water, scuff with fine Scotchbrite and "swipe" on a coat of
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Dark thread on dark blank generally works fine. Light colored thread on a dark blank is something totally different. ..............
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They're all good and they all give similar results. But each has its own particular characteristics. What appeals to one builder may not appeal to the next one. I have always preferred the highest build epoxy I can get. That's because it's a "do-all" finish. You can apply it thickly or thinly. And get the job done in 1 application. The lighter build formulas can't be applied thick
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That doesn't really add any strength, only weight. The only adhesive that really matters is that between the close fittings parts. Packing it inbetween arbor spaces isn't really doing anything for you. It's not necessary and adds a little weight that you don't need. .............
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You have a very light, bright color over a dark rod blank. If you had painted a single coat of pink paint over a dark brown or charcoal colored wall, you'd have the same result. I would ask if you thinned your CP - this sometimes causes a similar result as well. What brand CP did you use? .............................
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Siskiyou Aviary. Link to the left. ..........
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The thing is, any rod will throw an 8-weight line, at some distance. The question that hasn't been asked is at what general distance do you plan to fish the rod mostly? ..........
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A thin glue line is generally stronger than a thick glue line. "Cramming" adhesive into a poor fitting joint isn't doing much. Your assemblies should fit closely, and fit well. The thin layer of adhesive simply keeps them in place. If you apply the adhesive to both parts, and slide them together, any excess will be pushed off and the tiny bit needed for the best possible bond will
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It will certainly work, but my suggestion is to either get the same sized tiptop or the same sized running guides. ..............
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Gloss, if you buy the gloss product. Tru-Oil also provides a high gloss finish if you use it per the instructions. ............
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