Yes, if you don't figure exactly, you will have a mess that you cannot believe. I'm not sure the pre-formed Flex Coat type arbors aren't less expensive and less risky than this operation. But, I do applaud your efforts and congratulate you on this most successful experiment. ......................
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They're sweet. Only con is that they save you so much time you won't be able to hide out in your rod building shop for as long as usual. ..............
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Mud Hole and Southern Graffix (a guess). .............
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It will not change the action, the blank will initially flex in the same location as before. It will affect the speed, or reaction and recovery, of the blank due to addition of weight. .................
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Not sure anyone makes such a size. Not these days anyway. Keep in mind, that the transition you speak of is only to the eye - the lines doesn't go through any such transition. The difference in going from a 20 to a 14, versus going from a 20 to a 6, is next to nothing. It only alters the line path a millimeter or two. The line doesn't use the entire ring opening so ring size isn't that importa
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Maybe, maybe not. When I speak of a heavy duty rod I'd be speaking of something far heavier than a 10-weight fly rod. ............
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Depends on how much you put on per "coat." The single coat I use may equal the 3 coats somebody else uses, and they may feel they get better results by using 3 thinner coats. On your other question, heavy duty saltwater rods, charter boat rods, etc., that are expected to see a lot of rough use, getting bumped, banged, scraped, etc., generally do better with a little more finish thic
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Here's an easy way to mark the grips for accurate cuts. Use a ruler, or whatever, to give you the width desired. Then, stick a short piece of tape right on that mark. Once the lathe is spinning the tape becomes a solid line all the way around the grip. It's a simple matter to simply lower the taut thread to the edge of the tape and slice it. ...............
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Cutting from both ends will still have the same large effect, just in different areas. The action will still become slower. The power loss won't be as much, but the lure casting weight range will then be affected. ............
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You will lose a good deal of power and the action will become much slower. I'd mock the blank up in the way it will be, as if you had cut those 12 inches off, and see how it handles and feels. You may still like it, you may not. The best option is usually to buy a blank in the length that you require, with the action and power needed. .............
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The Duo cutter doesn't work as well as you might think - it's a bit of a dud. I have one. Cutting the EVA with thread while the grip is spinning on the lathe is by far the easiest way. ............
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Whoever did that for you broke the law. If they're caught, the penalties can be serious. ..........
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No, I do not believe they offer wholesale pricing on their lathes or accessories. .................
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On diamonds, you wrap on both sides of the center. What you do on the left, you also then do on the right. On chevrons, you only wrap to one side or the other of the center. Either all left, or all right. ...........
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It's not the original version, but still a very good finish. As good as anything else out there. Handles much like regular Flex Coat (about the same viscosity), very clear and easy to work with. ..............
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I don't know, but I'd guess that they do. Fly Tiers wrap it around hooks, so I would assume you could wrap it around a rod blank. It will probably help to flatten the ends of the wire to prevent a lump in the wrap. ...............
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The Silicon NItride models, I believe, were originally intended for wire line use. They are likely overkill just for braid. Any of those Billy mentioned will do fine. Braid won't groove any of the quality rings from any of the well known guide makers. ............
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Reading a bit of the typewritten catalog, I see where he says his "gold inlays" are actually made from brass wire. ..............
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I looked in my files just now, Wolfe Rod Company was using the gold wire inlays as far back as 1983 (postmark on the catalog I received from them back then). Jack Wolfe was the owner. I had forgotten how beautiful they were. Sort of puts the ones done with metallic gold thread to shame. I'll put one of his photos up on the photo page in a few minutes. I'm not sure of the actual technique used
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The kind of weight difference you'd be talking about is absolutely nil. I seem to recall this gentleman but can't put my finger on his name. I'm sure he used the fine wire such as that sold by fly fishing shops for certain fly patterns. That's where I'd look for it. They usually have various colors and sizes. ...........
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This may not help you but I'll throw it out in just case. You can purchase a toy EVA ball, kid/pet toy, at most department or pet stores. Cut it in half, glue that half to the end of a cork section and you have a half-round ball fighting butt. We covered this in a past issue of RodMaker with an article and photos. Just something to consider if you can't find what you're looking for. It works
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The folks at PermaGloss have been trying for years to figure out how to ship it overseas by cost effective means, but haven't come up with a solution. The product is highly flammable. It contains a healthy dose of Xylene. .............
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Action is generally regarded as where the blank flexes initially. All rods have a "progressive" action which means that as you apply more and more load, the point of flex moves toward the butt. This would be true whether the rod possesses a fast, medium or slow action. .........
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Right, it costs Bernie a lot of money to send a packet out by mail so this should get his method out and he won't have to incur all the postage fees. ............
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It's a product that is costly to ship due to the solvent involved. It can't go by air mail, even here domestically. Nobody is making money on shipping charges. The prices you quote above may have been through different carriers (or contained 4 rod blanks, remember?) and anytime you start compiling shipments overseas things can get steep. Plus, shipping charges entail more than just freight an
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I saw one of Terry's rods at the Expo and really liked the smooth, clear finish on the grips. He said it was CA and this is why I had asked Ralph about the stuff when used as a coating. Remember, it was designed to be an adhesive, not a surface coating. I had the same conversation with a guy from the Valspar lab the other day. He said the same thing - that long term use of such an item out of
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Tru-Oil is actually a "wiping varnish" more than a typical oil finish. But I wouldn't use it on EVA grips. ...........
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That article will be running in the issue we mail around the first of June. It's already been outlined and prepared for publication. ................
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Yes. ..........
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NIckel Silver is hard for epoxy to bond to. The surface must be "primed." Try this, prepare a water break free surface as usual, then apply a very thin coat of CA adhesive to the surface. Let set for a few hours. Then apply epoxy and assemble as usual. This usually does the trick. ..............
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