I found this a couple years ago and I still use it today.
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I always remove factory stickers by scraping with a finger nail. Any adhesive residue is removed by using Goo Gone or something similar.
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That was quick turnaround by our DNR. Their response: "That would not be legal in MN. Another rig legal in some states, but not others. Not legal here."
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Good idea Roger. I fowarded Steve's link to "bassfan" with my inquiry. When I hear something I'll share their response.
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Steve, please excuse the comments made by me and Chuck. I think it would be fun to be able fish with this rig. I also think it would be okay to have a bass season that doesn't close...other states seem to do fine w/o a closed season. No disrepect to your opening post was intended but Chuck and I are from the state of Minnesota where absolutely nothing is allowed. : \
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"Dang! I am working on a rod to throw a gill net. ;)" Chuck, hope you can throw it a long ways...you'll need to reach at least to the state line! : )
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Not illegal to build in Minnesota but have to go somewhere else to use them. This may apply to other states as well. MN 2011 Fishing Regs Anglers may use only one hook. An artificial lure is considered one hook. A treble hook, when not part of an artificial lure, is considered three hooks and is not legal.... Actually I'm surprised B.A.S.S. and FLW allow these types of rigs.
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Everything Scott said +1. This was my first gathering and it was great meeting so many other builders face to face and exchanging stories and ideas. I look forward to the next event.
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+1 what Roger said. Just keep in mind that when you trim a blank, whether it be from the front or the back, the resulting blank will have a little less power and a little less tip speed. How much depends on the blank that you 're starting with. If you're familiar with measuring speed and action using the CCS then you can find out the difference. First measure action and speed at the ful
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Was just discussing this yesterday. I'm building my next one on a Batson XP841.
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Take a look at Dr. Hanneman's Common Cents System at this link. If you read through it you'll get to Chart C on page 8 which gives you a good idea of a rods lure weight range for casting and spinning rods.
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When ever I apply any label, even waterslides, I always trim the label edges while holding the cutting blade at a 45 degree angle. The resulting tapered edges lay down on the rod blank without any ridge.
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Check out this excellent example.
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Since posing my question I have also learned that a smaller band saw may not be a good fit since the blade may tend to wander, at least compared to a really good floor model. That's not on my radar at this point. I'll mess around with the tools that I already have. I can create some thin bands with my planer too. Joe, I do have a scroll saw so we'll see what I can come up with. I'm c
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I'm looking start getting into segmented turning for wooden handles. Is a band saw necessary? Can I get by with my miter saw or table saw with sled? If band saw is better I'm looking to get a used, smaller, benchtop model. Any recommendations of what to get or what to avoid?
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..dup...
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You've got the choker guide right if you're splitting the difference. I came up with 42" and 49" for your two reels. Tape on your running guides equidistant and fine tune them wth static testing. You can't really say you've got 24" for the reduction guides because it depends on what size stripper guide you use. If your using braid you may get by with a size 20 but for mono I wo
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On occasion I'll go as low as 1 ml each of resin and hardener and have had no problems with my power mixer. I use a 1/2" steel ball bearing for mixing. But typically I'll use from 1.5 ml to 2 ml of resin and hardener. (measured with syringes) It works for me, others may have different experiences.
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Well everyone, thanks for all the positive comments. This afternoon I agreed to go ahead with it even though it's a tight deadline...Sept. 17th. The silent @#$%& is for the local high school girls varsity fastpitch softall team. They're raising money for a trip to Florida next winter/spring to get in some playing time before their season starts up here in the cold northlands, MN. I decide
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Agree 100%. I subscribed a couple years ago and one of the first things I did was purchase all back issues to volume 10 and the CD with volumes 2 through 9. Truly a wealth of information.
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Great Bryce. That's the kind of response I'm hoping to hear about.
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I took a look at the pictures you posted. Very nice the way you tied everything together by using the same wood. Just what Tom's article in the current issue of Rodmaker was discussing!
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I have been asked to build a rod for a silent @#$%&. Has anybody had any sales generated by participating in similar events? What have your experiences been, good/bad?
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Brian, I sent you a message via private email.
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Here's another...
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If you want to try something different, add a little Pearl Ex powdered pigment while mixing your epoxy. Use white thread for an underwrap. It's available at places like Michael's and there are metalic and pearl colors. Here's the color chart:
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Thanks Russell, good info to know.
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Richard, Thanks for the recommendation. I've read only good reviews on the MXH sticks but I stick with Batson blanks for two reasons. One, they're excellent blanks and a great value and two, I live just down the street from from one of our vendors on the left, Midwest Rod and Reel. Al and Bill carry the Batson line of blanks and treat me great and I don't ever have to deal with shipping cha
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