I've never used or tied micros. I do have some that I look at and wonder how my fingers can hold one. So here is the question. We are talking bass rods. If a typical guide layout for a rod might be a 12-10-8-8-7-7-6-6-6, now look at micros that go from 5.5 down to who knows how small, what is the problem with a rod with say an 8-7-6-6-6-5.5-5.5-5.5 wih a 5.0 tip. I have fishermen asking /
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Various comments, thanks for the time and thought. I did not glue up the butt cap. I did try to twist the reel seat and the rear grip. Neither moved. I'm going to try the heat but I suspect it will be the same. I suspect the mix was off by more than 10%. I did mix the hardner and resin. Good part is I am building 2 identical rods, same blanks, etc. for the client. Different threads.
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Bill, this was a used containers that I have built 8 or 9 rods from with no problems at all. Lids were never left off nor has the product been exposed to air for much than 3 minutes. I pull one part then back on with the top so not to mix up tops. I never open both resin and hardner at the same time. I did think of something, when I mixed the components I got halfway through and "ra
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I have glued up a rod handle with Rod Bond. After 4 days I checked my excess and it was soft and tacky. I have glued up about 35 rods and have not had this problem in the past. I say that because I suspected by 1:1 mix ratio was off by about 10% (my best guess). I think more resin than hardner. Temp has been 65 to 70 F in my shop. I'm pretty confident this is a mixing problem so no probem wit
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Does anyone know the actual diameter?
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Could some of you familar with Fishhawk threads help me with the following? 1. What is the difference in regular metallic Fishhawk thread and their "P" metallic? 2. What is the diameter of Fishhawk's variegated thread?
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Would you apply any epoxy before the grips are installed?
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If you wanted to wrap chevrons between a split rear grip, what is the order of work items? What do you do first, etc. I've seen photos under ThreadArt but cannot figure out what comes first.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you read the article in RodMaker, you know you > have to remove the clear covering from each scale. > Otherwise the colors will be muted. > > ............. Tom, do you remember the year the article appeared in RodMaker?
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I have built 3 different bass fisherman "worm/jig" rods with a Batson RX7 MB843 and RX8 MB843. Two rod sets "Mag Bass". I can say all three men feel the RX8 is more sensitive. BUT, they switched to florocarbon in lieu of mono. Also, one is a "buddy tournament" fishermen. His partner will pick up his RX8 but will not touch the RX7. I built myself a RX7 2 year
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flippin and 8# to 10# line don't exactly go together, lol. Better stay with the medium to medium light. A Batson RX8 XSB 843 or 842 (lighter) might work. They are both 7' but are not considered "flippin" sticks. The 843 might be too heavy for 8#.
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Any of you sponsers have any snake skins?
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Thanks to both of you.
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Is Fishhawk "Silk Sparkle" out on the market? If so, who has it?
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Lorenzo; How did you apply Lumiseal to your guide wraps?
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I want to think I read that this thread requires CP and is similar to Madiera. Not a nylon. ???
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Todd, when you say "manufactured in China", exactly what do you mean? I'm curious to know if any part or manufacturing process of a "new" All Star rod is made/built in the USA.
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Michael I have used Holographic including Sulky's as accents for guide wraps and inlay accents in butt wraps. It does take a little getting use to. Have to pack carefully. I have started using it when I am tying several rods with the same thread color scheme. I will wrap a narrow band , maybe 2 or 3 mils of color thread to match the rest of the rod. ( have a pull tab under the band), inse
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Is there any truth to the thought that some company's less expensive blanks, are more durable when it comes to fisherman abuse than a company's higher grade lines of blanks?
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I use the same clip on as Mr. Bradford.
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I know where to get cork stoppers, I have all the fired cartridge cases I can stand, plus a bag of cork dust and shavings. Thanks gentlemen!
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How do you build a plug for the butt end of a "Tennessee type" cork handle for a spinning rod? Would prefer a cork plug. Any ideas?
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Andy Thanks, it is gunmetal. I thought it might be SIC but not on a medium priced rod. I will post the size tomorrow. Please check back on the forum. Thanks Mark
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I have a customer needing a casting guide for a Rick Clunn Signature Series rod. The guides are Fiji. Cannot tell the type of ring. The guides are a spin/cast type guide. This was not an expensive rod when purchased. Around $100. Any ideas would be appreciated!
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The ISB802.75 is one of the finest rods I have ever fished with. I use mine for 1/4 to 3/8 oz spinner baits. Light, responsive, sensitive and durable when it needs to be. I had a catfish over 10 lbs almost took it away from me today (literally). I had to cut the spinner bait in half just to get the blades back and the fish back in the water. Could not get the hook out. Also the RX8 ISB 843
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I have built 4 blanks this year. 3 for customers , 1 for myself. Today I caught a 15 lb bowfin. Stripped line 3 times from an almost locked drag, 15 lb Trilene big game. Bent a 5/0 heavy Mustad 90 degrees. The rod did not fail. That's all I can say. An XSB843.
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I have built 4 blanks this year. 3 for customers , 1 for myself. Today I caught a 15 lb bowfin. Stripped line 3 times from an almost locked drag, 15 lb Trilene big game. Bent a 5/0 heavy Mustad 90 degrees. The rod did not fail. That's all I can say.
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Second that!!!
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That's what I like, good straight answers, thanks gentlemen.
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If you obtain an aluminum winding check that is either a little to tight or a little to loose, what are your options? Never used one before and was just wondering the do's and do nots of these items.
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