I applied the CP and took the rod from my shop, no heat or ac, into the house to dry. Lower humidity and higher temp. It sat for 2 days. But to finish the rod, I took it back out to the shop, cooler with higher humidity. I live in Tennessee. Other than clear bluebird days we have humidity. It was cool for the first finish coat and with the second also. I tried rubbing the film. I had limi
Forum: rodboard

Reply to previous comments. 1. blue thread with met silver end wraps. 2. CP was flex coat. 3. mixed 3 ccs each in flex coat mearsuring cup with steel spatula. 4. Cool conditions. Applied in my shop, no heat or ac. I would say 50 F range. 5. Cured inside after 9 hours on 4 rpm drying motor OH Tom, this is a great site. I really appreciate the comments provided by you and the other me
Forum: rodboard

I have just finished reworking my first rod. A practice rod, took off the old guides and replaced with new. I finished with FC Lite. I did use a CP. I applied my first coat too think. The closer to the tip I got the more the finished looked like lumps. Some bubbles developed. About a week after the first coat I went for the second. Tried to even out the lumps but to luck. I figure I was try
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It seems that the CP generally darkens the thread. Would say that is the case most or all of the time?
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Thanks Mike.
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To use or not to use, that is the question? This concerns replacement of broken quides on bass rods. Crankin Stiks, Flippen Stiks, and various types of bass casting rods, mainly graphite of different ages and quality (mass produced rods).
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It might be Skeet was speaking of the rod he fishes a "Rogue" type jerkbait, not the manufacture, Rogue. A Smithwick Rogue was one of the early jerkbaits.
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