Jay, ask yourself what kind of lake or river are you fishing. The cover or lack of will or should have a bearing on the rod you select as well as the line size. The truth will come when you build the rod and spend a season or too with it. I know fishermen (as well as myself) that use popping blanks for specific crankbaits. Hook size and type come into play. What kind or how smooth of reel wil
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I have built 4 rods off of this blank for different fishermen. They have yet to go through a full year of fishing but from what I can see, I would agree with Chuck. I think a 1/4 oz trap (maybe a 1/2 oz) is about has heavy as I would go. I would not throw any heavy crankbaits, such as a DD22. The CB70MH is the next rod up in stiffness. If you are thinking of 2 rods each one of these would co
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Thanks Mike.
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One of the members posted some photos of a "Fishhawk Verigated Thread". Is this a new Fishhawk product? Who sells it? Does anyone have any info on this product?
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Are any of you familar with a steel rod manufactured prior to 1950. The manufacture is as follows. SunnyBrook Steel Union Hardware Co. Torrington, Conn. Any info would be appreciated.
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Today I saw an old steel rod that appeared to be made with brass guides. The frame had what appeared to be red/amber glass type ring. The ring was thick but transparent. You could tell that the rod had been used alot. There was a little line wear in the ring but not as much as I thought. What was I looking at?
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Thanks all.
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The worn area was not below the guides but under the front threads before the toe of the foot. This is an old friend, but even if it was a stranger, I would point this out before proceeding any further. I wrapped 3 guides on it today and found what appears to be fibers proturding from the worn spots. That iced it for me not to proceed without a counsel with the owner.
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Harold, each spot was at the threads leading up to the front of the toe of the single foot guides. No wear in front of the eye of the guilde. I'm going to take of look at the guide feet.
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I was asked to rewrap a Browning bass rod for a friend. I removed the guides. The thread appeared to be a size D. Very large dia. I thought. The first 2 guides were casting guides. No wear on the blank. The remaining 6 guides were fly rod guides. The old finish was cracked and was pealing off the end of the warps. I cleaned off the old finish and discovered that there was a groove worn th
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I have used Guderod, Maderia, and FishHawk, plus some other dealer's own products. I like working with the Fishhawk, especially the metallics. Color is the main reason for using the Madiera. I find the Maderia harder to work with because of the coating on the thread but am starting to overcome the learning curve. My fishing buddies are looking for colors you just cannot find in the FHawk or G
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Has anyone else used Metro thread that Gary mentioned above?
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Thanks Gentlemen.
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I have some pre-assembled rear cork handles. One of the grips will slid onto a blank I am preparing to use for a crankin stick. The handle did not require any rasping and is not snug to the blank. I am afraid if I use it the rod bond will lose its adhesion after some fishing time. When is the I.D. of a handle too large to be used on a rod? I normally use a snug fit with the rod bond acting a
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Thanks for the comment Jim.
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Phil, if you have an old rod, be it fly or casting, get a bottle of U40 cork seal. Sand the cork. If you like a very smooth feel use a higher grit, over 200 or if you like a little grip try 120. 1 thin coat of U40. I was very skeptical when I first found out about it. I'm a hobby builder but I have done 35 plus years of club and local tourney bass finishing. I reworked over a dozen of
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You can order them direct from TAP Plastics in 1 oz containers. Do a google search.
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As a follow up to Chris's question concering epoxy, what dryer speed is preferred with Hi Build vs Lite epoxy?
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I have been using the ISB802.75 the last several months. An excellent blank! I use mine for spinnerbaits in the 1/8 oz to 3/8 oz. size. I have abused the rod just to see how it took the pressure. Works great and is very light. I know it would work great for many types of topwaters. Was thinking of building another for just that purpose......
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I am consideirng using acrylic paint for labeling a Baston RX8 rod. How do you think the acrylic will react with FC or TM finish? Your thoughts....
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John, I would suggest meet with the customer, if you have not done so, and ask him to show you how he holds the current rod he uses for crankbaits. Plus quiz him on the types of baits he is wanting to fish. The 6'-6" is pretty short for most CBaits. Especially if he is throwing the bigger CBs that run in the 14 to 16 ft range. How long of rear grip does he want? The last 2 orders I hav
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Men, where can you get a 200 rpm motor?
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I hope this means I can get my Scarlet Red that is on backorder! LOL
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Jay, We are talking KY Lake Crappie fished with a 1/2 oz to 3/4 oz weight with a minnow above about 18". Fished in stake mats and stumps/roots in 10 to 30 ft. Problem is every now and then you get a really big drum or kittenfish. Then you have the guys that fish the same mats with a 1/16 oz tube or jig weighted with s split shot. No casting just tight line. Bill, I will check out the
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Folks, I am looking for a source for fiberglass blanks for some crappie fishing clients. Or a graphite blank. In short, I need a light, 2 piece, 9 to 10'-6". Need flexibility in specs on the blanks. Everyone wants something different. Need a $40 buck blank not a $100 plus blank. Is there such an animal?
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My question was raised because of a crappie pole, 10'-6" i built for a friend with a shoulder problem. He does not fish with a spider rig as Jay mentioned, (which we have a lot of around where I live) but tightlines a single minnow or jig over the front of his boat. He uses an automatic fly reel and fishes brush piles and stumps in 20 to 30 feet of water. He will have maybe 18" in fr
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Do you use it for both casting and spinning quides?
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John Repaci Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi, Mark, > In the Library section- "Eliminate Broken > Rods-Correct Rod Usage" Thanks John, found it! And to rest of you thanks as well.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Check the Glossary here (black buttons along the > top of the forum window) and you can find the > explanation for these and other terms. > > .............. Tom, did not find "high sticking" in the glossary. This was the one I was really interested in knowing about.
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In a previous thread there was quite a discussion on breakage of some rod blanks on their first trip. I saw the term "stress testing of the blanks" and "high sticking". Could some of you give me a quick lesson on these terms? Thanks!
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