I have recently started building 2 pc. walleye spinning rods by trimming the butt off of 9' steelhead blanks. This places the ferrule in the butt section of the rod, and all the guides on the top section. The rods really feel like 1 pc., lighter, no flat spot in the middle, and are still really easy to transport. I also have an old fiberglass Wonder Rod that has this design, gotta be 30+ yea
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I am wondering if there are any printers other than the Alps that work decent for printing waterslide decals. I have read some of the old posts looking for an answer, but figured I would ask to see if there is any new thoughts on this. Any info would be great. Thanks, Marc
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I have not been a big user of color preserver, but considering it for some new rods. Just wondering if most guys still use two coats of finish over CP on guide wraps, or just one. Thanks, Marc
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Hello Tom, Versitex does not have it on their site yet. If you call they can get you one. The one on the Acid Rod site looks like it is the Pac Bay one also. Good fishin' Marc
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Pac Bay has just come out with an epoxy finish mixer. Looks like a really neat unit. I just ordered one from Versitex, but have not received it yet. It supposedly mixes your finish with no bubbles. The price is reasonable too. Has anyone seen one of these yet? Good Fishin' Marc
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I agree with you on the UL's. I still like to wrap a thread color that matches the base color of the marbling to get the truest color. Given that I'll wrap over the ramp, any thoughts? Thanks again, Marc
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Looking at doing some longer epoxy ramps on UL to ML spinning rods, avg. blank dia. ahead of foregrip is 0.270"-0.320". Would like to do some ramps approx 2-1/2" long to marble on. Anyone have any tips on this one? I have read some old posts about first building up steps with size D or E thread. Would this be a good application for this? Thanks, Marc
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Forgot to mention - it is a keyless drill chuck. Marc
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I am not sure about the CPW chuck, but I just put together a little different chuck system for my Jet Mini. In place of the standar 1"-8 thread mounted jaw chuck, I used a 1/32"-1/2" drill type chuck mounted on a #2 morse taper shank. It is great for turning with Andy's mandrels, and allows quick, each change between sizes. To turn short foregrips I just mount a 4"-5"
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I am looking for some Pac Bay thread, in Ruby Red and Midnight Black, size C, standard nylon. If anyone has this in stock or easy access please let me know. Thanks, Marc
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I turn almost all of my grips from rings, but was wondering if anyone modifys pre-made cork grips much. For some cases it would be a lot quicker, and cost effective (in case you haven't noticed from my other posts, I don't have a real high paying customer base). I know a lot of pre-formed grips have a lot of filler. Any tricks to shaping them without them coming appart too bad? Thanks, M
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Thanks Tom, I am looking at a Vega, which I thought I read on an old post is what you had used. Is there any particular cutting tool or bit that you found worked best? Thanks, Marc
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I have used both quite a bit, and loved the 4600. I used it mostly for bass/pike fishing. The narrower spool casts lighter baits a lot easier, and with all baits fewer birds nests. If the 4600 will hold enough line for you, it's great. Marc
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I just got a Jet Mini Lathe as a gift. I would like to try a duplicator. I have been turning mostly burl cork, or burl and natural cork spinning grips. Will a duplicator work well for this? Any recomendations on which ones are the best or easiest to use would be great. Thanks, Marc
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Thanks Putter. After getting your marbling DVD I am addicted!!! It's a lot of fun, and looks great. No end to the color combo's and swirly patterns! Hope that 3 feet of ice is out soon for you. Marc
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I have been doing a lot of marbling, and would like to use the same base pigment (testors) on the guide wraps. I am wondering if this will hold up long term on guide wraps where the rod flexes a lot, or if it will cause the epoxy finish to crack or fail somehow. I did see marbling guide wraps mentioned in Rod Maker. Thanks, Marc
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Thanks to the recomendation of many of you guys, I finally built a walleye spinning rod on the Batson RX7 blanks. I can't believe how nice they are. The feel as good as St. Croix SCIII, or many Loomis I have handled, very light. Thanks again everyone here, and the guys at Bason for providing such great products. Marc
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I thought I read that American Tackle is now offering the Matrix blanks in grey, but can't find the post. Has anyone seen these, and if so, is it a flat grey like, or does it still have the Matrix look to it? Thanks, Marc
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I'll second that! Extremely nice guy, with a great common sense view of things. Check out his DVD's at Acid Rod too, good stuff. Thanks Putter! Marc
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Thanks Dave and Andy. Can't wait to try this stuff, looks great on the rods I have seen. Marc
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Ordered my first batch of Copano cork, and am wondering how it sands/shapes. I have done a lot of work with traditional burl and regular cork, and regular cork cuts like butter compared to burl. This was also my first order from Bingham, and they were really quick to respond and very helpful. Thanks, Marc
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Hi Mike, Looking for 6' and 6-1/2" lite, med lite, and med. actions. Two pc. if available. Thanks, Marc
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Yes, I do buy wholesale.
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I want to keep the blank cost in the $25-$40 range. Should have just posted that probably. Thanks, Marc
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I have a customer that wants to order 8-10 lite to med freshwater spinning rods, but wants to kee rod cost at $135-$150. Do you guys have any favorite blanks for rods in this range? Going with pretty standard components and hi-alloy guides for other stuff. Thanks, Marc
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Anyone use the Batson folding keepers much? If so, do they seem to hold up well? I have used the Fuji's some with no issues, but they are not available in gold like the Batson's, and like all their other stuff, the Batson's are priced right.
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I agree with Ralph. In a lot of cases, jig-n-minnow or soft plastic fishing, I think a softer tip is a little better. If you have rod that is very stiff, the fish can feel you as good as you feel it. The softer tip allows you to feel the fish some, without it feeling you as soon. Anyone else use this "feel" too? It seems that most of the focus on sensitivity is on transmitting vi
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If you already have 7'6" musky rods, I would really suggest you try a 6'3" or 6'6" for big baits. Throwing these things are work, period. I have an old Heddon Musky Special, 5' solid glass rod I still use some, and have caught quite a few fish on. I think we have become a little too in to the "longer is always better" mentality. Don't be afraid to go outside the the n
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I live in Wisconsin, and have done a lot of musky fishing with big baits. I thinks the St. Croix PM63XHF would be a great choice for what you are looking at. When you get in to these big baits, I think you will find a little shorter rod (this one is 6'3") is less tiring. These baits have so much weight that you don't need a 7' rod. Good Luck, Marc
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Just got my first shipment from Sevier. The blanks are beautiful, and a nice change of pace from flat grey. One of the blanks shipped was not the model I ordered. When I contacted them Dave appologized for the problem, told me to keep the incorrect blank I had no charge, and he would send the correct one out today!! It doesen't get any better than that!! Marc
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