After becoming resonably proficient at 2 part epoxy application, i decided to try my hand at permagloss. I have previously finished a rod with spar urethane and it was a success, however permagloss is proving difficult. I will try to descibe the condition as accurately as possible. On some of the wraps, after the second or thrid coat small spots and streaks have appeared which look almost lik
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I finished one rod with helmsman spar urethane. It took 6 coats but they dry fairly quickly. The rod is in great shape 2 years later.
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I just finished a spinnerbuilt on a 12wt. fly rod with a fuji sk seat. I used a 20, 10 then 4s out to an m type tip.
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I agree with your assessment of Mudhole's customer service. Last year I had ordered a 700 yd spool of mettalic silver pro wrap thread ($12.95). It was out of stock, so they substituted 7 rolls of 100 yds each ($3.95 x 12 = $47.40). So far, I have only ordered from Mudhole and @#$%& and they are both top-notch in customer service.
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When I apply finish to micro guide wraps, I stop a few times the first hour (ProKote, so I have time to do this) and wipe the excess off with a toothpick. I now use a very small testor's brush for the area around the wrap behind the guide and I have also used a toothpick with some success.
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If the first coat is covering the threads, and there are no fisheyes and no bumps or defects of any kind, there is no reason for a second coat. I have applied second coats both scuffing and without scuffing and I haven't seen a difference.
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I get the impression that if the blank has an aggressive taper, you might get good results at the tip but then you would be wiping off the coating in the butt area. The last time I coated a blank, I taped off the area from the reel seat down to the butt, and the are acovered by the tip top. I held the blank horizontally with a clamp and used a saturated cotton t shirt to wipe the spar urethane fr
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And since you gave them the freebie, when and if they come in for a new rod, do you think you will get what the rod is worth?
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Pull through on the opposite side of the guide foot. Also, before you pull through hold the last few turns tightly so the thread doesn't pull the last turn to a point where it will end up under the guilde foot tunnel.
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The ngc and the static method work fine together. Set the number 4 choker guide, and the number 16 stripper guide (this should approximately be 1/2 the spool diameter in millimeters.). Then place a number 4 guide 5 inches back from the tip. Next proceed to static test it. I followed the instructions for both procedures that are in the library. I recently built a steelhead rod on a st croix 8'-6 b
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Research suppliers in the UK. This is a common item among carp fishermen.
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I would cut out the portion of eva that is damaged, smooth out the contour, remove traces of eva from the blank in the affected area, cut off the winding check, remove all traces of adhesive down to the blank and then use a small decorative band to cover the area, epoxy it and done.
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I have a gentleman who may be ordering my first for profit build. He and I will be discussing color scheme (matching his boat), and other specifics. From a brief discussion I understood the following: He fishes Long Island Sound and is looking for a fluke jigger (maybe several). His preference is 7'-7'-6 length, with a light tip, but a fair amount of backbone and I get the impression he would lik
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A long time ago I bought a Garcia Ambassadeur flipping stick (17-30 line, 3/4 - 2 oz casting weight). The rod has never seen a Largemouth but has caught countless bluefish, fluke, seabass, ling, porgies, dogfish, etc. I have used it extensively on piers and party boats on Long Island. It was capable of easily casting twice the rated weight a country mile. Eventually the reel seat (old varmac chro
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I still think you should try static guide placement for yourself. There is an article in the library describing it. It was easy enough for me to follow my first time out.
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I used citristrip and a plastic putty knife. I only used the utility blade for a few stubborn areas. I don't like sharp tools near blanks.
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Thanks for the responses. The solution is almost too obvious.
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How does one mount the butt grip on the end of the rod. The bore doesn't go through. Is it as simple as just reaming it out?
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Billy's almost dead on. The reel will be spooled completely with mono. I jig blues with 30 lb mono with a 12" leader of 40-50 tied to a swivel. The rod will be used on party boats with jigs from A27's to A67's mostly.
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I am currently building two prize rods for our local kids fishing derby and I tried to use some staples clear address labels and an inkjet printer to make the labels. I stuck it ont he rod, wrapped over the end and I put color preserver over it. When I went to blot the cp dry with a paper towel, the ink came off. What did I do wrong? Any resposnes would be most appreciated.
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I am moving away from aluminum winding checks and using rubber checks or even rubber o-rings. I don't like the idea of restricting the rod from deforming if it happens to bend that deeply.
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I got a "too good to pass up price" on a Lami LGM961XH that I am currently building as a Musky rod but will see double duty as a fluke/light blackfish rod. Right now the handle is built with a 14" graphite tube, crutch butt cap, Fuji ECS trigger seat with 4" of shrink tube behind the seat, 4" EVA foregrip and a rubber o-ring winding check. I am considering the following g
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Why not use a 3-6 piece fly blank and build it as a spinning rod? The blank doesn't know how you're building it.
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Thanks to all. I had misgivings about using micros on a party boat rod. Especially while weaving in an out of fishermen with a blue on the line. Just curious.
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I have a 30 lb solid tripping rod I am building as a bluefish/striper rod. The tip is 18/64. Since I only use a short leader with a swivel, I would like to use heavy duty micros, but there is no tip even close to a 4 or 5 ring to fit the rod. Would a guide work as a tip on such a rod? Thanks to all.
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Don't worry about what looks correct. Worry about what loads correctly.
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The guide under discussion were not intended for casting rods. The high frame small ring guides were originated for use with closed face spinning reels. Back in the days when the cone of flight was the rage, the match fishermen began using closed faced match reels to negate the effects of wond on the line. So, obviously cone of flight was no issue when the face cover choked the line at the reel f
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The idea of high frame guides with a small ring comes from UK match fishing. They use spinning rods (those who don't use poles), very light lines (1-4 lb) and often fish in wet and windy conditions. The high small ring is supposed to inhibit the line from sticking to the blank when wet and reducing casting distance.
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I use paste for everything; the liquid is just a drippy PITA.
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Companies need to chnage things to keep the consumer interested, and then they end up creating a theory to justify the change - marketing.
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