This is my second rod build and the first where I have to determme guide placement (the first was modeled after a comercial rod I own). I've researched placement exhaustively, read the tutorials, used the @#$%& calculator, compared it to similar rods I have and done the static test. This is a 6'6" casting rod on a MB783-MHX blank. This is a MH power with a fast tip. The question is this, when I do the static test, the first three guides behind the tip all need to be spaced 3 inches apart for the line to comform to the curve of the rod. If I move them progressivly further apart, the line touches or goes below the rod. The 3" seperation looks correct to me. The problem is that none of the rods I have, have that kind of placement. Since this is my first static test I'd like to get it right. I think it might be correct because this is a fairly stiff rod with a fast tip. Any advice?

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Sounds like you're building micros on the baitcaster all on top? Line touch on the blank is more preference. with a fast tip, you will need to space them as you mentioned, if you want minimal line touch during even a static test. Spiral wrap the guides, or load more guides if you do not want the line on the blank.

Don't worry about what looks correct. Worry about what loads correctly.

Thanks, the running guides are #6, not what I would thinlk are true micros. I'm building this for my son in law and he says he doesn't want a spiral. I'm doing one of those for myself.

Steve a little more thinking please:

You reference three guides back from the tip - that defines four spaces on the blank between guides

Then you state three inches is the measurement to be sure the line follows the blank upon load -

Take another look - the last two spaces between guides probably follow the blank pretty well - if you look close you will note that the end of the tip section actually flattens out under load ,

The area that is in question of probably the third and fourth space between guides -

The concept of increasing progressive distances may be the one that is causing concern.

Is there anything that requires the guide spacing to be progressive?

It may be that the best place for guides would require the third and fourth guide to be closer than the second and third.

Listen to what Bill is saying. Try to get over what you think it should look like. Pretty much all of my rods have more distance from tip to first guide than first guide to second guide.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks for the comments from all. These comments give me the confidence to go forward with the placement I've determined in the static test. Probably won't be able to work on it until this weekend, but will post pics when it's done.

In the renzetti wrapping machine. Does any body knew the brand name of the motor they are using for their high speed motor(1750 rpm) to shape cork or eva grips.
My uncle gave me a motor and I wanted to make sure if its the same. Thanks for your help anyone.

I cannot find the manufacturer's name on mine, but I suspect it's a Dayton.

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Francis,
The brand really doesn't matter. If it is an ac/dc series wound motor of about the same rpm of 6,000 and 1/15th hp, you will be in good shape as long as you can mount the motor.

As Tom said, many of the power wrappers do use a Dayton ac/dc universal motor.

[www.grainger.com]

Take care
Roger

The motor mentioned is a 1/4HP AC motor rated at 1500 RPM. It's strictly a turning motor. No variable speed.

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Tom, are you sure on the RPM? 1725/1750 is standard rpm. 1500/1550 narrows it down a lot. Basically it would have to be a direct drive blower motor, permanent split capacitor type. Probably 48Y frame. Fasco and AO Smith are most common names.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I copied it from the motor spec chart on the side of the motor.

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Okay, that leaves few choices. I would need to know what type of mounting system it has. Most motors of that RPM are "stud mount". If it helps any one could look at Grainger stock# 4UU68 and see if it would work.

I buy a ton of motors for work and might be able to help better if a picture was posted. If a 1750 RPM motor could work it will open up many more possibilities and the cost would be lower.

In motors brand means little.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

With the mounted step pulleys, a 1750 RPM motor would certainly work.

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Actually, the typical 1750 rpm motor would not work because these are typically synchronous motors and are of fixed rpm.
I assume that the lathe uses a foot pedal for variable speed which would imply the use of a universal motor. -- I am making this assumption on the idea that the motor is also used for wrapping.

On the other hand, if this motor was strictly for turning and not wrapping then the use of a 1/4hp 1550 rpm would work just fine. This is a fixed rpm synchronous motor:

[www.grainger.com]

Again, you have some choices depending on the necessary mounting for the motor.

Take care
REW