Sort of like old school bass rods.
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Drywall tape for me also. I use four narrow pieces with the adhesive heavily applied in between the strips
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I've painted a few with krylon and spar urethane over the paint.
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Charles Clayton Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Alcohol will take the gloss off commercially > applied polyester powdercoat, it's a much > underestimated solvent and best not apply to any > painted surface except two pac, these days I use > window cleaner and elbow grease. I stopped using any type of chemical. BAsically, what I do now is l
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Just to pick everyone's brain. I will be vacationing in Texas next summer and am considering a guided trip for Alligator Gar. Any blank recommendations would be appreciated. I have a few Lamiglas musky blanks, a lamiglas 30lb class wbt blank, and a TRL 30-80. do any of these make sense or should I look for something more suitable. Never fished for gar, by the way, so I have no clue what I should
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Attention all! The Casting for Recovery spring @#$%& has begun. Just go to the home page and there is a link to register and begin bidding. I hope all will spread the word as this organization has helped my wife and countless others deal with this terrible disease. Thanks and God bless. John N. Backos
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A long time ago, before I began buildign my own rods, I caught many Fluke on a Daiwa Apollo boat rod. The rod was fiberglas and stiff, but I never had an issue feeling a fluke bite. When drifting a fluke bite feels like snagging bottom. When you feel this, you release line (keep the reel in free spool, the Penns were great for this since you didn't have to turn the handle to engage the reel).
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What I did was use a thin band of drywall mesh tape. I started from the rear piece, slid the winding check in place, coated all tape surfaces and the blank with adhesive. Then I slid the rear half of the reel seat in place and mated it with the winding check. I then installed the other winding check squeezing out the adhesive while slowly cleaning off the excess. I followed the same procedure wit
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I don't like any arbor system that doesn't permit direct adhesion of the blank to the reel seat. You are then relying on the twisting resistance of the arbor material.
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Mudhole always indicates a back ordered item on their packing slip and also in their website on your account page.
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There is also a blue scotchbrite pad that leaves imperceptibly small scratches. Definitely do not use alcohol. I used to do this and was plagued by fisheyes. Just wipe with a coffee filter or use lightly compressed air to blow the particles away.
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Test cast the rod. Don't get hung up on dimensions. If the rod casts well and the line gets tamed properly, who cares where the butt guide ends up?
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Having done a fair bit of fluking myself, I'll chime in. I will assume that since you mention light fluking, you are back bay fishing and not over open ocean. In that case it will all depend on the required sinker or jig weight. If you are drifting from a small boat and using sinkers lighter than 4 oz. you might want to consider a hot shot blank. You want a light tip to distinguish the bite from
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15 pounds of weeds, really? Anyway just to keep the subject alive, carp fishermen across the pond routinely catch fish upwards of 20 lbs on hooks as small as 8's. I had a snapping turtle with a shell diameter of about 14 inches on 8 lb mono with the drag tightened down and he was covered in all sorts of weeds and was still able to land him from shore. Also, from shore numerous bass 4-5 lbs on 6 l
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No offense intended. My point merely is to state that each situation is different and all factors must be taken into account. The rod acts as part of a system, and not on its own. The entire system must be tailored to the conditions at hand. The information you provided in your last post clarifies what you were asking. Peace.
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The rod's power is not the only factor in hooksetting. If you use a flexible rod, coupled with a large hook, using mono, there is not much power at the hook point. I have no problem hooking bass to 5 lbs on a ML steelhead rod with 6lb mono. The difference is with that setup, I use a no. 2 hook. If you are fishing a 3/0, 4/0 hook for example, you will either need a rod with more backbone, or a rod
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About 5-6 turns before I want to start the trim band I insert a loop of mono. When I get to where I want to start the trim band, I pull the trim thread through. I move the main wrap thread a bit to the right and take the trim thread around the rod in the opposite direction of the main thread, tightly wrapping over the main thread. When I get to the end of the trim thread, i hold it tight and tuck
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This used to happen to me when the tension was too loose. I now wrap a bit tighter and hold the edge of the wrap tightly with one hand while pulling through with the other hand. I then pull the tag fairly tightly and after cutting the tag I push the wraps slightly outward a bit to straighten the edge.
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No, you don't need to scuff the finish. Also consider using a urethane finish on the underwraps. It dries harder, making it easier to pack the wraps.
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I have read in numerous posts that a rule of thumb for the sizing of the stripper guide in spinning rods is 1/2 the spool diameter. I have generally followed this with good results. I am curious where that rule of thumb originated and how it relates to the distance form the spool face. Understanding of course that test casting is still required and that many variations are possible. some time ago
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I think it would look great with a carbon fiber grip
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Just curious; has anyone here used a Fuji sk as a fly reel seat?
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Unless he plans on either targeting fish that make long runs (tuna, carp, etc) and/or light tackle record seeking, the hardloys would be fine.
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I agree with roger. Since i stopped using alcohol to clean between coats, I no longer have a fish eye problem. If I feel the need to scuff between coats, I use a blue scotch brite pad (for sale at the supermarket) that doesn't leave visible scratches. I then use a tack cloth to remove the residue, which is really slight with the blue pad. I stopped using blue tape, because I found some of the tac
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I would do that, but the way the glue was applied, it doesn't cover the entire blank. Approximately 50% of the area that should be covered by adhesive is not, showing the bare blank. And the bare areas are all over the place, not uniformly distributed.
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I am currently rebuilding an old Ugly Stik surf rod. The reel seat will be retained but the grips are off the rod. What is the best method for removing old, dried adhesive from the handle section of the blank. I don't know for sure what type of glue it is (looks like epoxy), and is as hard as a rock. I have done this on a few rods before by scraping, heating, grinding, etc. but it took forever. J
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Very quickly is an understatement. I found it to set while it is being applied. There is no going over it at all. Your skills have to be spot on to apply with enough on the brush to finish a guide in one pass without lifting it off the wrap. I'm not there yet. I have also finished a rod with spar urethane. Much more forgiving than PG. Thinner but with a longer drying time. The finish looks id
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On second glance they do look like tiny bubbles. Anyway, I coated over with epoxy and silver glitter to hide the bubbles. I'll post pictures when its done.
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I'll agree with roger, but hey it's yours do what you want. As long as you can pass knots you'll be fine. Sorry if I am out of line on my next comment but its not directed at the OP, just a general comment on bass fisherman using 65 lb braid to catch a 4-5 lb fish that frankly doesn't stress tackle that much. I have landed largemouths at my local pond up to 6 lbs with more than a clump of wee
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I also bough one. They are unfinished but smooth.
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