I'll agree with Russell. I don't see the weight reduction as an issue on a rod as heavy as a 50-80. Don't forget to rig the sinker with much lighter line - yes you will lose a lot of sinkers, but if you rig with a three way swivel and 15lb sinker dropper, you save the rest of the rig and the expensive braid.
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You could remove the finish from the blanks and either paint them or apply clear finish (Urethane) to the bare blank. If you do paint them, then you would not apply epoxy to the blank, but you would use a urethane product such as Permagloss. I used Helmsman Spar Urethane on several occasion wih good results. The key is surface preparation, application thickness and speed and dust control. I found
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I'll respectfully disagree. I first bought my daughter a 6' $15.00 Shakespeare spin casting outfit at walmart. She actually casts better with the 9' custom I built and has found it easier to hook more sunnies with the faster line pickup of the longer rod. Plus the 9 footer weighs about half as much as the wally world rod. I believe now that even a beginner should have competent equipment. If the
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I built a spinning rod for my daughter on a pink 9' 8wt. 4 piece blank I bought from roger on ****. She has no problem casting on it and fighting up to 18" largemouths at the local pond has been easy. The blank cost me $22.00 (@#$%&).
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I recently rebuilt a Daiwa Surf Rod on which I used a yellow underwrap under the guides and under an open buttwrap. Every five turns, I packed like a madman. I then applied three coats of CP and all was good.
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Bill, I did that. The one that is one size larger casts better (not a scientific test mind you). No offense, but your point is strange considering that a hand line in the hands of a skilled fisherman will still catch fish. Trying to make things better is what fuels innovation. If mankind thought adequate was OK, then many things that we use everyday would not exist - stepping down off soapbox
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The issue I see is that with the NGC one of the goals is to establish a straight line path from the choker guide, through the running guides and out the tip. The tips on the market are sized according to the cone of flight theory. So after the NGC is set up, there is an offset in the line pathfrom the first running guide to the tip. Using a lrger ringed tip may alleviate this somewhat depending o
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I was thinking of trying that but I just am not too fond of the look. Would it be possible to dissect a tip top (separate the tube from the bracing/ring) and superglue a single foot guide to the tube, then wrap over the guide foot? Has anyone tried this?
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I have noticed that when ordering tip tops, the standoff dimension of a tip top is lower than the standoff dimension of the corresponding guide size. I believe that the tip tops are probable sized by the cone of flight method. As a consequence, I tend to order a tip with a ring size greater than the first guide. I believe that fly guides would work or at least be closer. I would like to maintain
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Also, when a fish leaves the water, its a good idea to give a little slack in the line.
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Thanks, Tom.
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I have a few questions that some of you may know the answers to. I just purchased Loomis GL2 (HS 1021) blank on ****. 1. Does the lifetime blank warranty travel with the blank? In other words, is the warranty still in effect even though I am not the original purchaser? 2. If the warranty is in effect and Loomis designates this as a casting blank, would the warranty be voided if I change s
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Thanks to all for the info and advice.
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Please don't let this thread become another diatribe about whose engineering credentials are greatest. I personally build on the spine, but am beginning to rethink my position since I have several factory rods that are off spine and they cast straight and fight fish just fine. The fish don't care, maybe we shouldn't either.
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matthew jacobs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When you have twice the amount of money saved to > last the rest of your life. No kidding, I'm still building personal (practice) rods and I am already hemmorhaging money. This is worse than crack.
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Gentlemen, when is one ready to go pro? Is there some objective minimum skill level or do you just begin when the first person asks for a rod? I know that many of the examples one sees on the web are from the best of the best, but obviously not everyone can build to that degree.
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How about a heavy carp blank of about 3.5lb test curve. This should be able to cast close to 5 oz. of lead and I find that most rods will cast more weight than the rating if you lob the cast somewhat. I pier fish with an old e-glass garcia flipping rod that is rated for 3/4 - 2 oz., but will cast up to 5 oz plus a small bait (live killie, clam, bloodworm, etc.). This has a tip that is light enoug
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Opening up a can of worms, I will proceed. Their use is mostly cosmetic and traditional. As far as the heavy saltwater argument goes, when the guides are mounted on the top of the blank and the blank bends downward, the tendency is for the tiops of the guide feet to move away from the blank not towards it. In a spinning application, or the running guides of a spiral build, as the rod flexes there
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I just received a pair of blanks: Labrador P5 - 1290, 9'0" long, 2 piece, 12 wt. Does anyone have any info on these?
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Russell said he was on a tight budget and the recommendations are an Alps seat which cost twice as much as the heavy Pac Bay, or AmTack aluminum seats or the heavy Fuji graphite.
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I recently placed an order with mudhole for the parts needed for my jigging rod build based on the blank I posted about previously ( Lami WBT724 -E). An item (1 oz. spool of silver metallic) was backordered for a few weeks. I sent an inquiry to see if there was any news and The result is that Scott will supply 100yd spools to amount to the yardage of the 1 oz. spool. Some companies still unde
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If you could explain the procedure you used, maybe someone could point out an error you might have made. I am barely more than a beginner myself, but the mixer has been foolproof. My mixer comes with a cylindrical piece of stainless steel with a gip wire that acts as a stirrer. I clock it at 4 minutes and it comes out fine.
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I just built a spinner on an 8wt fly rod for my daughter to use in a fishing derby. I considered the Pac Bay match guides but ended up with the Mudhole Purple Passion guides instead and I sprinkled glitter in the guide wraps. I figured she would like the bling and the little bit of weight difference wouldn't matter to her. I used the NGC layout and was pressed for time and had to finish the rod w
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Roger, turn the rod around and wrap from the same direction.
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Mike, I'm sure some of the more experienced will chime in, but I'll give it a shot. First the butt guide is located where, when the rod is fully loaded, it keeps the line off the grip and your hand. It may be 31", it may be right off the grip. I would start close and move it out. For the remainder, I would glue up the tip, place the first runner 4.5" back, and the stripper close t
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Mettalic blue, with white trim band.
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Tom, It worked. Thank you. John Backos
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OK, I tried to log in to the photo page per the instructions and received the following messages: "The username you chose already exists in our database. Please choose another." "The email address you entered already exists in our database. " The instructions said to use the same login that was used for the forum page to log in to the photo page. I even tried to re regi
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Difficult to determine without a full photo. Also, what would be helpful would be the ID of the reel seat, and the OD of the cork tenon. Finally, did Mudhole see the full picture? If mudhole has the same info that we do, you would not get a correct resolution. Generally, taking this type of issue public without a full examination is not cool, IMO.
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I used to have the same problem when I would pull the tag ends at 90 deg to the direction of the trim bands. I now pull the tag ends at a 45 deg. angle (right hand down, left hand up) and this seems to minimize the hump. Also, you need to be careful when cinching it down to keep it under tension. If it loosens up and the bottom of the loops move away from the blank, the threads may cross over eac
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