I also recommend the PSI. I added VS motor and highly recommend VS option right from the start. Thread converters work but sometimes introduce other problems that are not obvious. What is the thread and taper of the old sears?
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I can't believe so much time passed but i did use the ez out last weekend and got the broken threaded end out. I just measured the area where the O ring is located and the point where the break occurred. The rod is quarter inch 6.12 mm and the diameter of the recess is 3.33 so almost one half of the diameter of the rod is removed to accomodate the O ring--not a good idea. The other issue is t
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it screws in and out with a fairly large O ring between the threads and the unthreaded section male end. i really need to find one which does not have such a thin section. Does REC have just the "blank" without cork pieces to make a fightiung butt?
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I did get the smallest reverse bit from sears which requires a 5/64 drill bit. I did use my center punch but did not get it right in the center--I may have to fiddle around with it before I try to drill. The break occurred right at the location of the O ring which actually seems to have a lot of metal machined away to create a recess for the O ring. I am still wondering why the failure happene
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The broken part is the male end that screws into the rod handle. All of the ones i have are about 1/2 inch thread and 1/2 inch rod which could be 3/16 to 1/4. So the threads are buried about 1/2 inch in the handle.
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I thought about that but did not think of sears as a source--the sheared diameter is about 1/8 inch and about 1 inch deep in the handle.
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Well I have not used the rod much since I built it--10 ft 5 wt 4 piece with removable fighting butt. i used it a couple of hours with the 5 inch extension and enjoyed it immensely, and then the next morning when I checked the tightness before fishing the removable section sheared off at the threads and remained in the handle section. I am looking for ideas how to remove the threaded piece in
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Always something new a couple of days after I place an order.
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IMO Recoils are the way to go for the lightest mass guide. If you are concerned about noise use the heavy single foot Recoils. If you want the color scheme then you will have to live with heavier guides.
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For holding mandrels I use a collet chuck.
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Ditto on what Herb said about the REC's.
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Keep your cuts light and the tools sharp.
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I like the Dan Craft blanks--he might even have a 5 piece available.
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You can find a lot of information on CA finishing at penturning sites. I have found Tru oil to be a better finish for grips than CA.
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If you make the comparison based on the size of the ring opening, the minima are about .8 lighter than a corresponding BLAG.
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I would recommend the PSI lathe. I assume you are aware that the mini lathes are 1 MT and the turncrafter pro is a 2 MT. The variable speed is the way to go although there a many who argue that you do not need it. VS is very useful when turning other wood items. Mine is set on the middle pulley and I just go from there.
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Last summer I bought the Beall three wheel buff (I seem to recall that is one in the Andy Dear video) and the three large soft floppy wheels do a great job for buffing and polishing. I got the buffing system primarily for finishing irregular shapes not related to rod building. I tried some other makeshift arrangements but the three wheel functions the best and produces the best buffing results
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I second the Dan Craft blanks.
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I have tried most of the options mentioned and the optivisor is the best for me and can be worn over glasses.
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Lightest mass are the Recoils and significantly lighter than the Minima F. Consider the slightly heavier saltwater Recoils which may be quieter-less hum while casting. You might want to go with a ceramic tip top but the Rec tip tops are larger and easier to pass knots. If it is a two piece you could do Recoils on the top section and ceramics on the butt section.
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Titebond III works well.
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I have LS Supreme at least that old and the curing properties are excellent and better than some of the new formulas IMO.
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Janns Netcraft on the left has lettering goodies.
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Have you tried searching the Batson website for guide spacing?. There is considerable information there as well as the opportunity to ask the question.
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I think the assortments are the way to go especially in the beginning of rod building. I just purchased two of the assortments from Mudhole. I would have liked them if they were available when I first started. The unit price is better. Sure there will be some you may not use for a while but you have the opportunity to see if that combination works on the rod you are building. If you like to se
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I have a 3 wt 8 foot Dan craft which I built that I thoroughly enjoy fishing. I just finished a 5 wt 10 foot Dan Craft which I have not had out yet. I really like the blanks but I have not used or built on the RX8. Have you considered using the saltwater heavy Recoil guides? In the US TicH and the Rec are about the same price. The Rec are lighter than the plated TICH. There are so many cho
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Good idea! I am sure all the fellows will be interested in the results.
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If you want to try just one rod first and see how you like it, you can make a wrapper out of a cardboard box with V cuts on the side. As I recall tensioner can be just a phone book. All of the stuff has gone up in cost considerably the last several years. There are also tutorials on line I believe on Mudhole. Get a couple of dowel rods sand them really smooth and give it a shot to see if you
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I am wondering if flourocarbon or any leader and tippet material loses significant strength while stored on the original spools. I am going through my stuff and consolidating (putting it all in one place) and am wondering if the stuff is still good. It is expensive IMO so I don't want to replace it all but I don't want to be breaking off either. I am mostly concerned with the 6 and 7 x stuff.
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Paul What do you use for the cold workshop. My workshop is at 64 right now and will be in the mid 50's by winter.
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